From our week long “home base” in Bouzigues, we continue to explore Southern France.
Carcassonne
It would be criminal to be in the Southwest of France and not visit the walled city of Carcassonne. Carcassonne is the second “most visited” destination in France, after the Eiffel tower in Paris. This is because this jewel of a walled city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is both extensive and has been maintained in such pristine condition (including significant reconstruction over the centuries).
Over a 2,500 years old, the walled city of Carcassonne awaits us and we are excited to discover it. The first impression (hard to grasp in the photo) is just how massive it is. We are a fair distance away, and it POPS out of the beautiful rural canvas on which it stands.
Ta da.. Our next home exchange?
Carcassonne was heavily restored in the nineteenth century, and embellished with a certain amount of fantasy by the French architect Viollet-Le-Duc. The old walled city is genuine and the ramparts date to the medieval times (between the 5th and 15th century). Some of the details, such as the steep slate roof tiles, are not believed to be true to pre 19th Century reality.
Today Carcassonne is more open air museum than an actual living city but there are still fifty or so permanent resident households. We are standing at the foot of the ramparts in what once was a moat filled with water ~ the first line of defense for the walled city.
Walking along the ramparts ~ slowly taking in the grandeur the scenery and the history.
The fortified city has a concentric design comprised of two outer walls and a “network” of 52 towers, which were positioned to rain arrows on incoming attackers and deter, then resist, attack by successive enemies of the city. By the time this fortified city was finished, attackers would use what may be considered the first form of “missiles”, i.e. huge catapults able to throw massive rocks, or hot oil soaked projectiles lit into balls of fire, to bombard the inner community and, if lucky, create breaches in the walls. The city changed hands over the centuries between successive reigns of local or regional conquerors.
Inside the walls, are multiple chapels and a larger church with impressive stained glass windows.
France has long held The Arts as an essential part of French culture, and therefore a responsibility of the government, not only to protect, but to foster them. It may be baffling to U.S. voters/proponents of “limited government”, but the French mindset is that there are some areas that are, by virtue of the scale of the required investment and the returns that are only felt across multiple generations, a responsibility of the State.
Therefore, government budgets at the national, but also regional and municipal levels are EXPECTED to facilitate artistic expression, whether it is literature, music, film, dance, photography, puppetry, sculpture, painting or the culinary arts (and any other artistic endeavors).
It is in this very context of political support for grand works of arts, that the city of Carcassonne has invited a collaboration between contemporary art and the walled city.
This Carcassonne project we are about to step into, is part of a larger national initiative to combine historic architecture and monuments, and contemporary art. The logic is that a larger population of French (and foreign visitors) will learn to appreciate the historic assets, “patrimoine”, handed over from prior generations.
As one strolls around the town, there are some inexplicable yellow shapes that seem to have been painted on some of the venerable walls.
Swiss artist Felice Varini was selected by the city council to create an “aesthetic experience”. He employed local art students to install temporary aluminum strips, painted yellow, in circles and straight lines, across the walls of the fortress.
The result is an art installation called “Concentric, Eccentric.”
A bit of provocation or controversy is no stranger to good art. And this work is no different. There are petitions making the rounds in Carcassonne to protest this temporary work. Residents of Carcassonne were, they claim, not consulted about this installation and some local residents regard it as an affront to their cultural heritage.
As we walk around the ramparts, there is suddenly a large tower and bigger piece of the artistic puzzle starts to reveal itself.
The further away one walks, the clearer the art installation becomes….
Finally…
At the base of one of the entry gates, the masterpiece comes together. Step one foot to the left and right, and it doesn’t quite “come together”. But at the marked dot on the ground, it is one concentric and eccentric vision as hoped for by the art committee.
Grandiose! We LOVE it. A puzzle that delivers at one precise point in front of the walled city. All the shapes we saw as we gradually made our way through the walled city to this gate, align perfectly at this precise location in front of this gate. The concentric circles add a modernity that in our opinion, augment the beautiful shapes of the historic castled town.
To the appalled local community that decries the art work, the city council points to the once much-maligned addition of a modern glass pyramid in the center of the centuries-old Louvres Museum in Paris. “The horror” decried the masses. And now, 30 years later, it is still one of the modern architectural highlights of Paris and the Louvre itself.
Once appalled at the defacing of the Louvre Museum, Parisians have come to love the Pyramid.
The same happened with the construction of Beaubourg, also known as the Pompidou Center, as a destination for contemporary art in Paris. The once thriving “les halles” a large and centuries-old open air market, had to be removed from the center of Paris for its health and sanitation risk to the neighborhood’s residents. Turning an urban health issue into an opportunity for artistic expression, the French President (Pompidou) commissioned a large “modern” multi-function art building that would become over time as valued a destination as the stuffier museums. Parisians were appalled at the multi-story shiny blue monstrosity with its industrial pipes visible, clashing with the salmon-colored historic buildings that were and remain the character of the neighborhood. Today Beaubourg is a massive draw for tourists in search of the latest artistic expression that Paris wishes to promote inside the center.
Sete
Sete, across the bay from our home exchange in Bouzigues, is a city that we have both visited before. Sometimes referred to as the Venice of Southern France due to its canals, Sete has Provincial charm. Romantic 3-floor buildings that date back 200+ years line the multiple canals.
The crowd streaming along Sete’s restaurant-lined canals is surprising to us, as we remembered Sete as being kind of sleepy. Did Sete recently get more popular with tourists? Or maybe we had been here in low seasons before. Or maybe this is yet another sign of over-tourism, a trend observed around the globe. Turns out: it is the lure of market day in Sete.
We head to the market, always a delectable adventure. Turns out, the market is also packed with people and quadruple the size of what it used to be!!
We are here for a very specific purpose ~ to do a French cheese sampling with Josh & Ana.
Where there is cheese, there is saucisson (French sausage). Ahhh the choices……..!
My value contribution for the day to the family, is as a Frenchman, who can distinguish his cheeses. Good to grow up with this kind of exposure and years of trying different cheeses to develop favorites amongst them…!
French cheese 101 a la Ben. Over the years, Ben has done french cheese sampling and education with his son Ezra, who was a tot at the time and Adam, who was a teenager when he had the “cheese talk” and tasting. And, to this day whenever we see artisanal French cheese we think of our Australian shepherd, Mango. He was addicted to French cheese… ever since the time he stole a coveted whole one of the counter in the kitchen (that had just travelled miles from Paris to our home in Chicago at the time.) Time to broaden the cheese-eating culture in our family.
In case you are wondering what the cheese at the bottom is, it is covered in ash and is made from lamb’s milk. It is soft and creamy inside. The one on the top is hard and a sharper to the taste cheese. A great combination. (The ash covered one no doubt wouldn’t pass a U.S. Food and Drug Administration test.)
We tried very hard to resist… and then to eat pastries sparingly… but then again, one shouldn’t really leave France without trying these delectables, that would not be right.
Parc National des Calanques
Having satiated the appetite for architecture, art and food, our Northern Cal visitors want to make the best of being in France by going to a memorable beach. Not just any beach, but a really awesome beach. They do the research and come out triumphant with a destination. The beach has been found: The Parc National des Calanques.
We are off to this national reserve just on the other side of Marseilles, which is about a 3 hour drive.
Once we arrive at the national Parc, we discover that there is no car access to the remote, isolated beach that sits on the other side of this mountainous rugged reserve, (unless one has a reservation at the only restaurant near the beach, which we do not). It is about a one hour hike, mostly uphill and in the heat of the day. We load up with all the water we can carry with us as there is nowhere to get water once you are in the reserve. I Ben, am not looking forward to a one hour hike up the hill in the blazing sun.
But… I forget…I have a special weapon. Meet my girlfriend, Peta.
She ambles off a few feet away from us… sways her hips on the way as she sticks her thumb up and out… she doesn’t plan on walking, she is hitching!
A hunk of a guy in a big jeep pulls over, and seconds later she is in the car. She scored herself a ride!
Then comes the question…. Will she take off with the hunk and leave us panting up the hill? Fortunately she takes pity on us and gets him to pull over and we all climb in, very happy to escape the grueling climb in the heat.
It is really hard to capture the majestic beauty that this cove is. Jagged limestone cliffs rise high on one side and the water is absolutely clear and luminous in the sunlight. The section where the seaweed and corals are is a deep shade of Indigo blue, like an ink spill, contrasting with the turquoise waters.
The photos have no filters. The color has not been amped up in any way. The color palette is something to behold!
This day, these waters, this place.. it is just epic!
We all prepared for the essentials ~ drinking water, goggles and sunblock. But for me Ben, essentials start with the newspaper.
The interesting backstory here is that the Parc National des Calanques, was initially a private property which was donated to the French State and designated as a protected reserves as she wished. We are told that the fishermen who worked and lived on this land, and fished in these waters, were the only people given the right by the Duchess to live here in their small bungalows. None of the houses can be bought or sold, but they are passed down from generation to generation of descendants from the original fishermen.
After hours of chilling in this blissful place, we start the walk up and over the top of the hill. It is less hot now at the end of the day and a hike has us all feeling energized.
At the top with the view of where we are headed into the valley.
As we make our way down, the soft afternoon light hits the top of the limestone cliffs above the foliage. We can really understand why so many artists were drawn to the light and this region in Southern France.
The beauty of the mountains in the region around Marseilles (where we are) was captured by the great French painter, Cezanne. His favorite mountain view was Mont Sainte Victoire, painted here in 1885.
Same mountain, different angle, two years later. Cezanne, Le Mont Sainte Victoire, 1887
He would come back to the same mountain view, 9 years later. Cezanne, Mont Sainte Victoire, 1906
The week we are in Bouziques, Sete is hosting a jazz festival. We book tickets to hear Roy Hargrove. The venue for the concert is a gorgeous and unique open air theater ~ overlooking the ocean. Rather than the musical evening we were expecting, we are treated to a magnificent show of lightning and thunder. The audience was surprisingly robust and waited in the rain for quite some time… until the show was ultimately cancelled due to the weather. The lightning show more than made up for the cancellation of the concert.
Goodbye to our beautiful home exchange (thanks to Debbie and Reid) and to Bouzigues. Hope we come back some day !!
Hope y’all enjoyed the trek through this little corner of France… Aurevoir!
Like you said it just does not get any better than that. What a wonderful vacation and to share it with family too. I’m so envious and will be putting it on my next travels to take. Thank you so much!!
Boyd, so nice to hear from you and glad to know you enjoyed this post and that it is making it on your list of future travel destinations. Thinking back on how many business trips you took to France over the years and wondering whether you feel you took sufficient opportunity to explore the country for fun?
Ben
Simply stunning! The yellow art installation, the cheese and the colour of that ocean ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Thanks Tes, it was a very unique and memorable trip. Glad you enjoyed reading us…
xo
P
Wow. I’m just not sure what to make of the yellow concentric circles. I’d have to see it in person, but I’m thinking I’d lean to the side of the locals who are aghast. I think I would appreciate the artistic aspect and it’s pretty cool that you can stand in one perfect spot to see it all come together, but man, that’s a lot of yellow!! 🙂
p.s. mmmm….. cheese! And, please, what’s the point in going to France if not to bask in the glory of French pastry?!
Patti, the art installation is of course temporary and only going to be there for a few months. I think if it were permanent we would feel the same way, but given that it is not, we can appreciate the creativity and the unique modern look it gives to this historic place.
Re the pastries and cheese, yup exactly our thought. Paying the price now… haha.
Peta
Seems an idyllic way to spend a few days.
We had a full week together and it was idyllic indeed. We did so much in one week and yet it really was a very relaxing and chill week.
Peta
I love France. Thanks for the tour. Not sure about the concentric circles.
I am a Francophile myself. But blame it on my grandmother who loved everything French. From the food to the movies to the perfume to the language. I caught the bug and then married a Frenchman.
Good art doesn’t shy away from controversy. And in this sense the artist succeeded in prompting a national and local dialogue about the piece.
Peta & Ben
Hard to say which little section I liked best here today! I like the new mixed with the old, so the circles appeal to me aesthetically, but I can also understand some resistance, although to me, the locals should be LESS upset than a one-time visitor; after all, they will see their landmark return to its original state in a few short months while a quick visitor may never see the old walls unmarked by modern art. The cheeses, the beach, and the invigorating hike are like icing on the cake here! Heavenly.
Lex, you make a good point about the art on the walled city. At first we thought it was painted ~ horror of horrors, but were relieved to find out it was a kind of tape. The bright yellow is a bit jarring, but then again, going bold seems to have been part of the intent in creating this installation..
Ahhh the cheeses.. still trying to work those off now… haha.
Beach and hike were definitely the icing on the cake.
Peta
This sounds like a very special time. I’m not a fan of the yellow stripes, but love the beach you hitched a ride into. What a beautiful place!
Alison this beach was probably one of the most dramatic beaches we have ever been to and we have been to quite a few in our time! Then add the hike, the light, the Cezanne landscapes all around…. We were very happy campers!
Peta
The walled city is gorgeous and while the yellow certainly caught my attention, I’m giving it a thumbs down…at least it’s not permanent.
The colour of the water and that hitchhiking story are marvellous.
Good for Peta!
I’m amazed how much Sete looks like Venice.
Caroline, the thing I love about art is how it can illicit strong emotional reactions. Interesting that most people who have commented are thumbs down too, whereas we all thought it was very cool!
Haha I am definitely a fan of hitchhiking when a walk seems too laborious due to either the heat or my level of energy! However, I was thrilled to have the hike back when the heat had subsided, it was really great.
Peta
I enjoyed the trek (but would not have worn flip flops for the last part :-)) a lot. Thank you! What an amazing home exchange experience. And, since Sete sounds really familiar, that might have been the place in the Languedoc I visited with my parents as a child. I have heard of Carcassonne, but have never visited. Certainly a spot to put on the mental list for an extended trip to and in France!
I wasn’t sure about the modern art in combination with the walled city, but, from the moment I read the yellow paint was on panels and not on the natural stone, I totally loved it, especially once the twist was revealed.
Our Australian Shepherd dog Darwin loved brie! Something about dogs and French cheese. I’d love one of Ben’s tastings any time of the day. Mark, who is allergic to cow’s milk, would stick to goat cheese, but has been known to sneak a thin slice of brie once in a while, because he so loves the taste. 🙂
Liesbet we really enjoyed reading your comments on this post.
If the installation had been painted directly on the walled city, it would be something to be aghast about, for sure!! It was definitely fun to see small parts of it and then keep adding pieces to the puzzle until finally it all made sense ~ from one particular perspective!
I wonder if all dogs love French cheese or only Australian Shepherds? haha.
Here in Sri Lanka there is not much in the way of cheese offerings, so just thinking about that tasting in the market is making me miss being in France.
Peta
I remember passing through Sete on one of our French cycling holidays many years ago. We almost went to Carcassone one year but for some reason didn’t. I still have the guidebook! The concentric yellow is very clever.
Anabel, that’s great you have been through Sete. That whole region is so very beautiful. Maybe you will get to Carcassone next time.
We also thought the concentric circles and the way it all came together was clever. But I can also understand why people might not like it and even be shocked by it.
Peta
Lovely! I love that people have come to enjoy the new architecture/art mixed in with the old. I wish that would happen in my community. Over a decade later, people are still bitching about the renovation to our Carnegie library – it was left untouched but encased in glass to double its size to better serve the community, and received multiple accolades/awards for this reno. People travel to our community to see the marvel that is the library but some locals still have to complain.
Hah – loved reading Ben’s story about Peta scoring a ride for everyone!
Rock on guys,
Deb
Deb, it is true that people tend to be resistant to change, even if it is clearly for the better as in the case you describe. What a clever idea to encase the existing building in a larger glass structure!
Haha glad you liked my hitchhiking story!
Peta
I gotta admit that, temporary or not, I find the yellow on the castle walls to be downright offensive. It’s so obnoxious I remember nothing of the rest of the post. Maybe that’s the point, the “artist” saying “look at me, look at me!”
But then I’m not a big fan of “modern” art either.
Haha Dave, we are really enjoying seeing how readers of this post react to the art work. There seem to be so far, more negative than positive responses.
Isn’t it interesting how differently people react to art work?
Wait, so you missed reading about the epic beach and the yummy French cheeses?? You’ll have to go back and just skip the castle section 🙂
Peta
As much as I appreciate classical art, I also thoroughly enjoy artists who aren’t afraid to “color outside the lines.” The bright yellow lines on the castle are shocking, but when viewed as a whole, it’s quite a remarkable creation. (Still, probably better that it’s temporary, no?)
The cheeses look divine. We actually enjoy an ash-covered goat cheese from California so it doesn’t seem strange at all! And the pastries—it would be just plain wrong to not sample the pastries in France.
Love that Ben’s beautiful girlfriend scored a ride up the mountain for everyone. :-))
Laurel thanks for all your lovely comments on this post. We are chuckling at your words. I like the way you phrase that “shocking, but quite a remarkable creation”. That really does seem to sum it up well. And yes, if it were not temporary that would be a very different story, then it would be defacing a historic monument.
This reminds me in a way of all the light and sound shows where images are projected against French castles, in so doing, changing completely the character of the building, for just one evening, also usually combining modern aesthetics with the old.
I considered keeping the hunk in the car to myself, but decided to be generous…. 🙂
Peta
I want the cheese talk from Ben.
Haha… too funny. Meet us in France at the market! 🙂
xoxo
Thanks again Peta and Ben for this amazing post! Your photos are truly beautiful and the history you provide along with them is just the sort of thing that this gal so appreciates. Golly the world is gorgeous! Thank you!
Susan thanks so much for the compliments and so glad you enjoyed this post. If you appreciate history, plus the arts and food, then France is the place for you! We could happily return there every few months, no complaints.
Peta
I had a trip to the Calanques last month, glorious blue sea and sky!
Oh great, you too got to experience this glorious part of the world!
Peta
What a great post! I just skimmed the photos because we are planning a month in Southern France next spring and places like Carcassonne are on the list – I never like to look at too many photos in advance.
I could’nt help but spot the yellow lines on the fortress. Oh my god. Personally I really hate it.
Thank you for giving me ideas for next spring. Never heard of Sete but it looks pretty. I HAVE heard of Parc National des Calanques and it looks spectacular (and reminds me of the coastline of Croatia). Fantastic.
Frank, on worries, the yellow art installation on the fortress in Carcassonne will be long gone by the time you get there. But hey, there may be something different for next season! I know what you mean about seeing too many visuals of a place before you get there, we actually feel the same way. It is nice to discover places with ones own eyes, whenever possible.
Parc National des Calanques is a must as is by the way, Aix en Provence.. Really you can’t go wrong in this region there is so much beauty in so many directions.
Peta
Goodness, it’s fun to travel with you, especially since my husband and I rarely do. (sad face) Thought I’d remind you that I do know the rules of home exchange, in case you’ve actually applied for Carcassonne – you have to leave it cleaner than how you found it. Ahem.
The yellow target installation on the city invites a lot of discussion about its meaning, but I’m glad it’s temporary. You presented it perfectly – up close and then farther and farther away until we had a view of the total effect. Brilliant.
I took my sons to see Christo’s and Jeanne-Claude’s yellow umbrella installation in California, about 30 years ago. Its temporary status not only is what likely got him permission to create it, but it added to the statement the art made. Surrounded by crowds in some areas, visited by just a few viewers in others, and completely singular in remote locations, it told a story of the impact of people on land and of the interaction of people with art. Though the umbrellas are long gone, I always think of them when driving through the area. The thing about art and architecture is that we only view it momentarily but its memory maintains its impact forever.
Cheese – you made me grab some in the middle of reading your post. But my most favorite cheeses are the ones from the patisserie. Yum!
And then how fortunate you are, Ben, to have the friendship of that flirty Peta or you might still be massaging your aching calves.
Finally, it does seem that nature provides the best entertainment around, from seas colored turquoise to landscapes carpeted with plant life to skies rent by thunder and lightning. All we humans create is a pallid mimicry. Well maybe not Cezanne. I’d be thrilled for one of those paintings to grace my home, reminding me of all the beauty in the world.
Sharon thank you for all your thoughtful and well articulated comments on this post. So great that you appreciate the gradual build up of the photos of the art installation! That was how we experienced it, so we wanted to share that with readers.
Love Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s work and this large installation at Carcassonne definitely was remindful and in fact I looked them up to show them to Josh and Ana after our visit here. Interesting how long those kind of impactful visuals stay in one’s mind long after the sighting. I do think that is a testament to the impact of bold art.
Ah yes, always flirtatious. Guilty as charged 🙂
Nature always delivers, for sure. And it is for us the combination of being in a city with access to natural beauty nearby that works really well. In France it is very easy to find both in close proximity. Love the choice of words in your last paragraph… so poetic.
Peta
Wow! Thanks for taking me to France. Your words and pictures reminded me of our trip in 2010. I really loved the yellow paint on the old walls. It’s quirky! But, I guess some may not really be into that kind of art though. 🙂 Can’t wait to read more!
Thanks Cheryl, glad you enjoyed our posts on France. You have another on Morocco and one on Amsterdam awaiting you! Interesting how most readers seem to have disliked the art installation, but yay another vote for YES!
(Just to mention though, it was NOT paint on the old walls, but a type of plastic tape which is easily removed without causing any damage to the stone.)
Peta
Beautiful little city, but, sorry, that art on the castle…just, no. My opinion, obviously, and I respect that of those who like it. 🙂 The beach is breathtaking. Another part of France I never got to spend time in. So much variation in that country.
It is so interesting how people have such strong feelings re the art installation at Carcassone. Most of the locals vehemently agree with you, so you are in good company.
The beach was pure bliss… France is amazing. No matter how many times we return, and we have been many times over the years, it never fails to deliver. Always good food, architecture, nature, history and more places to discover.
Peta