From Tarragona, Spain we take a high speed train heading towards the North Eastern region of Spain, just below the border with France. A home exchange request had come our way, a few months earlier, from a family with an apartment in the seaside town of Llanca.
This region of Spain, called the “Costa Brava” (Wild Coast), is part of the larger region of Catalunia, famous for its separatist political culture. A referendum held in 2017 resulted in a massive democratic wave to push for a separate Catalan state. This ultimately led to the Spanish state declaring the winner of that regional election a “criminal”, with secessionist acts. Catalunia is a region populated by a proud people who have their own culture, their own language (Catalan), distinct history and aspire to a degree of autonomy to maintain and preserve their heritage. On the other side of the Pyrenees mountain range is France’s Basque country, which also has its own distinct language and culture and also aspire to some form of independence from France.
This is a part of Spain that is mostly new to us, even though we have been to Barcelona before, it is our first time discovering the rugged coast line of the North, and some of the beautiful towns of Costa Brava.
Llanca
Our home exchange “host” meets us at the train station 30 minutes away to kindly drive us from the station to his apartment. This is an example of the kindness we consistently experience and enjoy, by doing home exchange. Our hosts are both biologists — one of them is a prominent expert in the region and has written many books about the local floral and fauna. His books are mostly written in Catalan.
The apartment is in a fantastic location, with a view towards the ocean and the bay with its small whitewashed towns, and walking distance to coves and small beaches. We arrive to a historic, unprecedented heat wave in Southern Europe.
Besalu
Besalu is a well-preserved small town which centuries ago had a very strong Jewish community. From a historical point of view it is worth noting that during the Spanish inquisition, Jews were persecuted and opted to take a chance at survival by joining Armadas of Spanish ships sailing to the New World. The Jewish population from such towns as Besalu was protected for many years as they contributed to the economic lifeblood of the community, but ultimately these Jewish communities dwindled to nothing.
(For those interested in Jewish history, here is the story of a decree that, 525 years ago, mandated the immediate departure of Jews from the Spanish peninsula.)
Josh and Ana join us in Costa Brava
We have long had a philosophy akin to “build it and they will come”. As applies to our four sons, we know that some of our Green Global Trek destinations will have appeal to each of them, but differently. All of them spent some time in Nicaragua varying from a short visit to living there for three years (in the case of Oren). In Asia, we met Adam in Viet Nam, Ezra in Thailand, Oren and Jess, in Sri Lanka.
We take the opportunity to converge with Josh and Ana, as we have discussed meeting in Europe over the years and now we have made it happen!
Cadaques
Many in the region consider the town of Cadaques to be the jewel of the Costa Brava. The well maintained white washed town, sitting between the Mediterranean Sea and a large natural reserve with no development for miles, has a written history that goes back at least 1200 years.
A favorite destination for sailors from multiple empires ~ these advanced civilizations arrived through the Mediterranean Sea: the Sardinians, the Etruscans, the Egyptians and especially the Greek and Romans, all of them great navigators dropped anchors in Cadaques, adding to the town’s rich cultural history.
Local historians explain that Cadaqués was first documented in 814 CE. The document recounts the shipwreck of a vessel that carried the relics of both Sant Abdó and Sant Senén, near Cadaqués; the shipwrecked people and the relics were saved thanks to the villagers’ help. Again “in the news”, Cadaques was written about extensively after the 15th Century, from the perspective of the people’s vulnerability to pirates. Villagers combined fishing with farming as a means to survive a hostile environment whereby the town was repeatedly ransacked by pirates and “corsairs” ~ the French equivalent of pirates.
As the Mediterranean sea became safer and safer, Cadaqués developed industry, commerce and overseas routes. Consequently, in the 19th century a large number of food industries emerged such as processing anchovies, tuna, olive oil, vinegar, soup pasta, as well as the manufacture of cork stoppers, soap, potassium carbonate and smoking pipes.
This tumultuous past as a Mediterranean town exposed to the vagaries of international geopolitics over centuries, however, gave way, in recent history to an artistic renaissance of sorts. Many great artists chose Cadaques as a serene and beautiful environment to paint in.
The town’s artistic credentials start and end with its most famous inhabitant and “artist in residence” ~ Salvador Dali! Cadaques was not Dali’s birthplace, but it was here that he did his most prolific work. Beyond Dali, the village became a favorite spot for local and foreign artists who were attracted by the beauty of its rugged and rocky landscape and charming architecture.
Dali’s contemporaries included Picasso, Duchamp, Max Ernst and Magritte.
Our first croissant, near the Spanish/French border while waiting for the bus that will take us to France for our next home exchange.
The home exchange sounds like it encourages the vibrant colorful life that you live. From the landscapes to the food to the art to the other subtleties of culture, you experience it all, everywhere you go. So inspiring. I always learn so much about the places you visit through your posts. All the little details that make a place unique. Cadaqués seems dreamy indeed. I love Dali and how fabulous to know that it has appeared to change little since his time there. And how wonderful that you could meet up with one of your sons there.
Thanks JD for your comprehensive comments! All three of these little towns had something very unique about them, albeit very different from each other. What we particularly like about exploring Europe is the proximity of so many destinations, and then with home exchange it makes it affordable for us. As well, with home exchange we find ourselves in places such as Llanca, that we would never have thought of visiting!
Peta & Ben
This is all so beautiful! What a wonderful trip.
Thank you Anabel, it was a great week of discovery and relaxation.
Peta
What an amazing way to see the world.
Thanks Peggy, home exchange certainly makes traveling both interesting and affordable.
Peta
Oh this all sounds so wonderful, especially Cadaques. And your homestay sounds pretty dreamy too. We’ve not been north of Barcelona, only down to the Costa del Sol where we spent 12 days in Nerja – heaven. thanks for bringing back the memories.
Alison
Thanks Alison. What surprised us so much about this region is how undeveloped it is in comparison with the South of Spain. A very different vibe from Southern Spain where the contingent of expats and foreigners is high, whereas here, we mostly met Spanish locals.
Peta
I’ve never seen Dali’s landscapes. So beautiful. What an interesting place!
Sharon, I was very surprised as well, when we did the research to see that Dali’s early works were these landscapes. And so very different to his later more surreal style of painting.
Wondering if you knew about that printing gallery, given that you were a printer? You would have loved it, we spent a long time looking at all the varied images and styles from artists all over the world.
Peta
Love love love the tunnel! And I must say you got my attention with Cadaques hmmmm
Looks like a lovely time was had by all.
Thanks Donnae. My son Josh took that photo and I love that he took the time to capture it. We were all rather aggravated having found out that the train we woke up early for to get to by taxi, was not going anywhere due to the strikes. But the tunnel changed our moods….
Peta
Did you have to wipe clean your computer after I drooled over all the images? What a gorgeous place, one from which I’ve seen very few photos. Seems you suffered much the same extraordinary heat wave we dealt with here in Southern California – the hottest enduring summer we’ve ever had, (that I remember) and we don’t have AC.
Not sure what I think of the secessionist desires of the area – the Basque people have long wanted their own country. Then I think of the California folks who want to break up the state into two or three smaller states, an idea I find nuts. Wait till they find they don’t have the infrastructure or resources to survive.
You’ve given us a grand tour of Costa Brava – I find the commentary and photos alluring as I rarely travel, so you’re my window to the rest of the world. Really love Dali’s paintings – he captured the light and character of Cadaques. As I often do, I’ll be back to immerse myself in this post again.
Shari, this are high compliments indeed. Thank you. “You are my window to the rest of the world” ~ aha that is most satisfying and makes our hours of blogging, worthwhile!!
You make an interesting point about the parallel with California, but allow me (Ben) to have a different view point. While indeed there are significant cultural differences between Northern and Southern California in terms of value systems and politics, the fundamental population history is the same. Whereas the Catalan have an entirely different history from the rest of Spain. They have their own language has been studied by many linguists as being entirely distinct from either French or Spanish and their mountain based culture, living on the Pyrenees between France and Spain also has contributed to a different experience. Also, the Spanish government has been deliberate for decades (centuries actually) in trying to homogenize the Catalan region, whereas there is no such destructive dynamics between Southern and Northern California. Interestingly the Catalan region has a rich economy including the vibrant cities of Barcelona and Bilbao.
Peta & Ben
Will be there in about 3 weeks after we finish up Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. Great to see a preview. Such beautiful pictures.
Steve, Spain might feel a tad bland after Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan haha. Although, am sure the food will be even more the treat for you both.
We were so delighted to find so many protected areas of nature and as well, none of the huge developments that fill Southern Spain’s coast.
Have a wonderful time there!
Peta
So pleased you enjoyed Spain. I love the white villages that never seem to change. I am also addicted to gazpacho in the summer. It cools me off perfectly. We haven’t explored the Costa Brava much yet but plan to. How nice to be able to spend time with your son!
Thanks Darlene. It was an absolute treat to have time with Josh and Ana. Very special. The whitewashed villages and the rugged coast line are such an amazing combination of visuals….. And for me, well I could easily have had the Spanish gazpacho every day! Hope you get there, it is well worth it.
Peta
LOVE your travelogue!!! Since I am vicariously traveling the world with you I am so glad you are having a great time and exploring such wonderful places. My cyber bags are packed.
Haha Judith, that’s great! Thank you for the lovely compliments!!
Coming your way soon are France, Morocco and Holland. Stay tuned….and keep your cyber bags packed!
Peta
A funny little diddy about “all over tans” in Spain. While in Barcelona we decided to take a long walk on the beach as we made our way back to our hotel. Without paying much attention and just enjoying the gorgeous weather and walking through the sand at the water’s edge… we both looked up and discovered we had aimlessly walked right in to a nudist beach and not only was it a nudist beach, it was a male’s only nudist beach. Absolutely nothing we could do but just keep right on walking! We laughed and laughed.
I loved all of your photos and how nice to have a family reunion while traveling the world. We love Spain and we’ve been fortunate enough to explore many of the regions. Last year we spent 10 days in Malaga (first time in the city) and fell madly in love with the city.
Looking forward to the next segment!
Patti that is too funny. Honestly, every single beach we went to in Spain had a nudist section at one side, although many had nude people intermingled with those in swim suits. For us it gives an insight into the culture which sees nudity as a very normal thing.
It was great to meet up with Josh and Ana ~ such a treat to discover places together and to have that time!
Spain is wonderful … and after coming from Marbella, where we spent four days (but did not post about ) the surprise of the lack of development, was a really good one. Marbella, while lovely, has become very built up in the last ten years.
Stay tuned…
Peta
Oddly enough, there is a Dali museum in St. Petersburg, Florida. It was a private collection which was donated to the city many years ago. We greatly enjoyed his work, and the docent led tour which explained his process. Fascinating, to say the least. So….to actually be in the place where much of his work was created must have been incredible for you. Lovely town.
Suzanne that is interesting…. In Cadaques there is Dali’s house and studio which we did not get to visit, as visits are apparently booked up weeks in advance. I wouldn’t say that Dali is one of my favorite artists, however it was definitely interesting to be in the place that provided much inspiration to his early works, and as well to other artists, of particular note, Picasso.
Peta
I think the entire Northern Hemisphere experienced extraordinary heat this summer. I can only imagine how much worse it would have been without AC. I admit to being a wuss when it comes to heat and humidity.
The bridge in Belasu!! Oh my – it’s a beauty. If you’re anything like me, you now have several dozen photos of that bridge 🙂
How nice that you got to spend family time on this trip. I would love to do another family trip someday, but the logistics are so much harder now. It looks like it was a very special time!
Thanks Joanne. I think that these heat waves all over are just the beginning. Climate change is a reality we all have no choice but to adapt to. We are used to heat of course, but we are also used to tons of floor and ceiling fans!!
Oh yes, the Besalu bridge was spectacular. We so enjoyed walking along the river and seeing the bridge at different angles.
When it comes to family, with four boys, we have found that the best way to travel with them is to invite them separately. Much as I love to be with all of them together, the logistics of that would be way too daunting. One on one ( or two on two as the case here) is pretty easy.
Peta
What a great way to travel! Have you read Joe’s blog over at Month at a time Travel? I think that’s what it’s called, but he left a comment on my latest post if not. Anyway, he is spending this month in the same region and has some wonderful photos as well!
Thanks for sharing your journey…now I want to go there too!
Thanks for mentioning Joe’s blog, Ann. I will check it out. We easily could have spent a month or more in the region, we feel as though we just “touched the surface”. Home exchange is a great way to travel. It often takes us to places we would not necessarily think of. Llanca had very few foreigners, almost everyone on the beaches was speaking Spanish and had come from Barcelona or nearby. Very different to the South of Spain which is packed with Europeans.
Do go. You will not be disappointed.
Peta
Hi Ben and Peta – It’s my first time commenting here. What a wonderful trip! I enjoyed reading your post and viewing your photos. Brought back fond memories of my visits to Spain.
Hi Natalie,
Welcome to our Greenglobaltrek! Thanks for reading us, and for commenting.
Peta & Ben
Sleeping out on the balcony at the home stay looks really nice. I am surprised they don’t have fans in the rooms – seems like it would get quite warm there. Cadaques looks amazing. I had a similar experience in Europe – as soon as we hit Sweden the trains were on strike and we had to figure it out.
Nice to hear from you Jeff! We were surprized by the absence of fans too (especially as the AC was broken), but promptly bought some the next day. These heat waves are going to be the norm, the new climate reality. In fact, they will no doubt be even more intense as time goes on.
We woke up super early to make that train… which would have been an easy few hours into France! Apparently there were train strikes all summer long!
Peta
I can only imagine what treasures you have in store for us after 10 weeks of travel! This is certainly a good first taste. Like many others, I find Cadaques to be very charming, but really, ALL of the photos of places, foods, family, and nature are so appealing. That tunnel is a gem, and I loved the Dali paintings of town and harbor that are so different from what we mainly think of as his work. What fun to be introduced to these less-frequented places through your home exchange!
Haha thanks Lex! I was so pleasantly surprised by Dali’s works inspired by the region. Unexpected, for sure. His house and studio are in Cadaques… but booked up for visits, weeks in advance.
It IS fun when a home exchange takes us somewhere that we would not have necessarily thought of going to. Llanca was very “ local”. Many of the visitors were from cities nearby…people who go there every year for their summer vacation.
Most of the time, we decide where we want to go and then find the exchange. But in this case, we were lured by an offer. Given we were going to be in the region, we let the exchange dictate our planning. The owners will be in our house in December.
Stay tuned
Peta
The landscapes of Costa Brava are delicious and the streets of Besalu and Cadaques very inviting. And oh that gorgeous seafood. I was unware of the region’s history and enjoyed learning about it here. Delighted that you got to spend time with Josh and Anna. And how lucky are you to have ventured through that colorful tunnel. Definitely an upside to a railroad strike. Cheers from Baly Bay where we are waiting for a weather window to cross the Mozambique Channel
Lisa nice to read you again…”waiting for a weather window to cross the Mozambique Channel”.. what a very Lisa like statement! Wondering whereabouts you both will be come January and February, as we are hoping to be in Mozambique then…. Will we have a reunion?
Oh yes.. that gorgeous seafood. Always fresh and inexpensive and delicious. We did not go hungry! But then I imagine you both get a lot of seafood while sailing 🙂
Peta
I’m in love. I wanna live in Cadaques also! I can understand why you might consider living there at some point. Artistic, beautiful yet village-y. Actually this town reminds me of the small SF bay area village I lived in for 20 years, right on the Bay yet away from the other county towns. And Dali. I get immersed in his art. The ones of his town paintings are less surreal than those he’s famous for, but the colors as vibrant and “alive” as most of his work. Thanks for bringing us along – I can see you’re glowing with the company of your son and Ana.
Oh, and it will be interesting to here how the people who did the home exchange with you enjoyed YOUR beautiful abode.
In love?!! Well, we did well to bring you here, then! 🙂
So now you have us wondering what SF village you lived in?
Re Dali, you might be surprised to see the many “non Dali” like paintings of the region that Dali did. In fact if you google Cadaques, you will see works of Picasso as well, as well as others. It’s interesting to see how many artists were drawn there and as well to see their interpretations of that environment/region.
As empty nesters, we do live rather far from our four sons, so any time we can spend with them, we really enjoy. Two of them live in Chicago, one near San Francisco and one in Portland, so even when we are in the U.S., we aren’t able to see all of them, every time. So yes, appreciating the time together, for sure.
We have been getting great feedback from those who have stayed in our house in Sri Lanka. For sure its more rustic than theirs, but we let them know that upfront. Now that Nilu is our “house manager” she definitely adds to the whole experience of an exchange, with both her cooking of Sri Lankan curries and including our guests at some family meals and outings. She is enjoying the interaction and the exchangers are loving it….. So that’s going really well, thanks for asking Pam!
Peta
With over a foot of snow on the ground outside the warmth of your time in Spain is a soothing reprieve. How fabulous to share some of the time with family too. Too bad about the train strike. One never knows with travel how things will go.
Sue, hard to believe you have snow in Canada already! In October!! That seems very early. And we, have heat and humidity in Sri Lanka, as per usual, except that it is now the rainy season, and so we have had some big storms during the nights.
The French railroad workers were on strike on and off for most of the summer apparently. So it was very much a hit or miss. But so it goes when one is on the road… always the unexpected.
Peta
Wow is all I can say! Loved reading of your travels and drooling over the pictures (and not just the ones of the food…hehehe!) – you know how to give the reader the full experience. Thank you so much for sharing with us, guys!
Deb
Thanks Deb, for the lovely compliment, so glad you enjoyed this post.
It was fun for us to relook at all the photos and memories.
Peta
I suspect Dali would have been right at home in that tunnel. Home sharing sounds like an interesting way to go. If you can get there, you get to spend an extended period in one smaller area, and enjoy little spots beyond the normal tourist fare.
Dave, I suspect you are right!
“Home exchange’ is different to “home sharing”. With home exchange, such as we use, sometimes the exchange partner does NOT use your home. In this case, one uses a credit system where the host receives a credit, which they can then use anywhere in the world within the home exchange website, and so it goes…
That said, during this particular period, this family WILL be coming to Sri Lanka in December, but there are times where the exchange is not reciprocal. This is the difference between home exchange and home sharing which is strictly bilateral.
Thanks for your comments,
Peta
What a fabulous location for you to base yourself in. The scenery is wonderful.
It was a great location for our discovery of the region… We were close enough to other small towns and yet there was plenty to keep us content in Llanca alone. The immediacy of the rustic coastline combined with the protected natural areas, was a great treat.
Thanks for stopping by to read us.
Peta
Spain and Portugal are high on our travel list so this was a very timely post. We too have been eyeing these countries as possible places to live in the future. Your international home exchanges are intriguing. We have been doing some housesits along our road trip, which has made it quite interesting for us and given us a pet fix as well. Love that graffiti-adorned tunnel.
LuAnn, we both very much love Portugal and Spain. The good news is that they are so close by, that whichever country one might be lucky enough to live in, there would be pretty easy access back and forth. To France too. After multiple trips to both, we come squarely on the side of Portugal over Spain as a potential future home base. Having a pet fix would indeed be a card in favor of house sitting!!
Peta
It seemed the home exchange program went off without a hitch, everything accommodated for and it was a good way to see what the locals actually do in Spain. Beautiful landscape under such remarkable clear blue skies. The Wild Coast with the family does look a bit adventurous, and Ben looks like he is having a lot of fun climbing down those rocks! Cadaques is does look pretty dreamy indeed, with water views and quaint cobblestone lanes. Lovely to see you two back, Peta and Ben 🙂
Thanks Mabel for the thoughtful comments. Stay tuned for the next part of the trip, upcoming soon. France.
Peta
How beautiful! One of these days I would love to return to Spain, and Cadaques is high on my list. I enjoyed your photographs (of course!) and also the paintings—no wonder so many artists have been attracted there.
So sweet that your son and daughter-in-law joined you for this adventure! I was just thinking of you and wondering what you were up to. Glad to hear from you. 🙂
Thanks Laurel, we had a bit of a hiatus from blogging over the summer. Being on the move and with family, made it hard to take the time we need to do these travels justice.
Being with Josh and Ana, was really a unique family get together and we all had an absolute blast. We never travel with anyone, unless its one of our sons. Then we make exceptions, 🙂
Thanks for stopping by to read us and your lovely comments.
Peta
Where to start? Your home exchange on the Costa Brava is just perfect! Except for the heat anyway. The views and the nearby attractions, the beaches… Wow, just wow! I think we need to start looking for places like these to house sit. So beautiful and relaxing! When I grew up, my parents, brother and I used to vacation on the Costa Brava a couple of summers. But, as I was only a child, I don’t remember more than the sun, the beaches and the swimming pool.
Besalu looks like the kind of town I’d like to explore as well. As I was reading and scrolling down your post, I kept think that you managed to combine everything in Spain: from nature to architecture to good food to amazing company. Then, art as well! Those paintings you depict from Dali are very different than the style he is famous for. And, I can totally see the attraction of Cadaques as a place to live. I hear you about the long, windy road to get there, but… if you have your own boat that could be avoided some of the time! 🙂
Haha Liesbet, that’s good. Ben actually thought about the idea of having a boat and using that to get to the airport when needed. Okay so if we had a boat, it would be more do-able.
Nice that you appreciate the multi dimensional experience that we had in Spain. And yes, we too were surprised by those early Dali works. It is always interesting to experience a town frequented by artists and see how the place is depicted over the years.
Peta
I so enjoyed this visit to Spain, Peta. The photos and descriptions were both inviting and mesmerizing. Your adventures are always a joy, thank you.
Thanks Jet for your lovely feedback, so glad you enjoyed this post.
Peta
Hello, my lovely wanderers! Since I have only explored Barcelona, I’m soaking up Spain tidbits through your informative posts. I absolutely love that you included a little comparison between Dali’s artwork of the areas you visited and what they look like today (one of my favorite subjects)!
Thank you. We were delighted to discover the Costa Brava region of Spain as in the North we too had only been to Barcelona. We have spent a lot of time in Southern Spain but this region was a first and we would gladly return if and when we get another opportunity.
It was exciting to discover Dali’s works and then walk in the same streets he did seeing them through his eyes and his paintbrush!
Peta
Lovely! Your pictures are saying everything. You had a great time in Spain. beautiful images of Spain…Thanks for sharing us …Definitely, Spain is an amazing place for traveling.
Thanks so much for stopping by to read us and so glad that you enjoyed this post. Spain is one of our favorite countries and we have spent a lot of time there, but it was our first time in this specific region. And we loved it!!
Peta
You make this home exchange thing look more and more appealing! I adore the white-washed towns of Spain, and Cadaques, with its coastal location, looks particularly lovely. Man those bougainvillea are gorgeous! In this region, we’ve only been to Barcelona and now you’ve got me dreaming of Spain again!
Thanks Caroline. We were thrilled to discover Cadaques, and loved the feel and scale of it. In retrospect we should have pre booked the Dali museum. Oh well, next time….
Peta
You really are living the dream. Your photos and commentary are a feast for the soul and never grow old. Thank you for sharing!❤
Thank you so much Stephanae, that is such a lovely compliment!!
Peta