We wrote and published this post in November 2016, when we were living in Hoi An, the last time around. Now that we are back in Hoi An, everything we wrote then still has relevance. Here is a re-post of our observations of cultural differences, then and now.
Cultural differences have the potential to delight and entertain, and occasionally to frustrate.
Usually, there is an arc where cultural differences initially appeal and, as one lives longer in one country, and the initial novelty wears off, frustrations may arise. When that happens, it may be time to move on…
Fortunately, we are nowhere near the latter in Hoi An, Viet Nam but rather, we are amused and occasionally baffled. We enjoy, even revel in cultural differences. They add richness as well as humor to our global trek. Of course, we understand that, no matter where we travel, people are more similar than they are different, at the core.
The more we travel the more we are aware that stereotyping has negative effects and trying to make generalizations about populations is neither smart, nor helpful in understanding. So our observations are not about the whole country’s population. They are about our personal encounters and conversations with locals, in Hoi An.
Here are a few of our current favorite “cultural differences” in (Hoi An), Viet Nam.
The sun is not a friend
Even if the days of lathering oil in order to bake under a hot sun for hours are pretty much gone or at least, the danger is now recognized in the West, the Vietnamese aversion to exposure to sun is taken to quite a different level. Nowhere is this more obvious than in Hoi An’s motorbike traffic.
The residents of Hoi An are not unique in their use of face masks to protect their faces, but they take the concept of protection from the sun very seriously. It is not only about protecting from the dangers of the sun, it is also about preserving a lighter complexion, which is valued, whereas having a sun tan is deemed as unhealthy and unattractive.
In full heat, one sees motorbike riders (especially women) covered from head to toe, with head cover, sun glasses, masks, zipped sweaters, gloves and socks. A successful sun protection outfit will leave not a sliver of skin exposed.
A fashionable young woman has parked her bike and is walking to work. No skin showing from head to toe ~ which goes to show that one does NOT need to show skin in order to be sexy!
This woman on her very modern motorbike, initially looks “alien”-like to us. Helmet, sunglasses and face mask merge into one. But these visuals quickly become our “new normal”.
A common practice is to cover ones clothes with another full body length garment, or a wrap around type of skirt, (fabric and velcro), that is used just to commute on one’s bike and then removed.
Mother and son protected from the sun. Starting “good habits” at an early age.
It’s always fun visuals when our scooter stops at a red light. Seems that nearly 90% of the riders have face masks on.
A display of a variety of colorful face masks at the fruit market. Everyone wears ’em, everyone has a variety of colors and designs. More than anywhere else in Asia, Hoi An corners the market on colorful face masks. Note the toe-socks, with a division for the big toe.
Face mask, printed sweatshirt, printed pants and a huge bright yellow and red shopping basket ~ all in front of the brightly colored Chinese temple, lanterns and all. It is easy to trace Hoi An women’s proclivity for bright and colorful clothing when one considers the equally bright and colorful ancestral architecture.
It is really hot midday this time of the year in Hoi An. The hotter it is, the stronger the sun, the more the need to be vigilant about covering up. Toe socks and gloves finish off the environmentally friendly look!
Ahhh, finally it is sundown and the locals can safely flock to the beach to cool off. During the day, the beach is empty save for a few (crazy) foreigners like ourselves.
It’s a full moon as the day draws to a close. There is NO beach in the world we have ever been to, that is full of people in the evening enjoying the sun free time. Makes total sense, but not something one sees in many places.
It is quite a beautiful scene at night with the moon shining on the ocean and the glow of little lanterns set out on woven mats. Night time picnics under the moonlight.
The tables and chairs are manufactured in Lilliput
To be sure, the average Vietnamese man or woman is smaller in stature than the average westerner. Most Vietnamese people are also on the slender side, due to their healthy diet which does not include any dairy and is packed with greens and herbs.
But as well, there is a cultural proclivity for small, very low to the ground, Kindergarten style seating. Makes for some interesting visuals when a foreign diner comes along…And yes, Vietnamese people have a great sense of humor and do not fail to see the humor in an oversize person squeezing onto an obviously too small seat.
Lunch time sees locals huddled, low to the ground, over pho…
A little beer, served in a bowl, certainly helps Ben get comfy on his Lilliput seating. Channeling his inner Gulliver.
Peta waiting for her breakfast Cua Lua ~ on the prototypical red plastic stools.
One’s sense of hygiene is entirely cultural
Much as every nation thinks its definition of hygiene is THE definition of hygiene, our Green Global Trek has taught us that this is simply not the case.
The most obvious illustration of this is with regards to the Asian custom of removing one’s shoes upon entering a home. This differs from most westerners’ comfort, walking in from the street’s and its inherent dirt, and bringing it into one’s home.
Or, a westerner’s notion that, to take a bath one just gets undressed and plops in an awaiting warm bath. This is a horrific concept to a Japanese, who consider soaking in one’s own dirt to be a repulsive concept, and who take showers to get clean, before getting in a bath to soak.
So how does this cultural difference about hygiene manifest itself in Hoi An? To a Vietnamese, having one’s inner ear canal cleaned is an obvious and regular hygienic requirement. To them, it is surprising that westerners simply let ear wax accumulate for years.
And so, when in Hoi An… Ben has his ears cleaned, which is a natural service of most barber shops. Haircut, beard trim, and ear cleaning… Out come the long metallic micro-scrapers that will go inside the ear canal, scrub the outer walls, before the ear cleaner expertly goes in to remove the residue, capturing his catch on the customer’s chest, so as to prove just how badly needed this treatment was (and no, it does not hurt (but rather feels a tad invasive, for the uninitiated).
Not the kind of sign one sees in western countries outside a barber shop: Haircut, shave, clean ear.
First the shave and the haircut….
And then the deep internal ear canal cleaning. All part of the basic grooming regimen. Note the several instruments held in his left hand.
Risk tolerance is cultural
It seems that one’s definition of risk is very much a cultural one. Nicaragua had already taught us a thing or two about the potential for a bicycle to transform into a family transport system, but in Viet Nam, the culture of “carry one, carry all, carry anything” extends to the ubiquitous motorcycle.
Look carefully…. This is a family of five people. There is a little girl in front and two more kids behind the driver. A whole family transport system.
Here a mom and her two children wait on their motor scooter to pick up street food at the curb. Notice the little boy in the front sitting on his own small chair.
This photo is pretty typical of the large loads that get carried on motor scooters.
One sees many motorcycles carrying two adults and two children. One sees children literally sleeping, leaned over the driver ~ how they don’t fall off is amazing! Babies are balanced precariously to our western eye… And there are all sorts of lethal combinations of goods and people on the roads.
A young dad and his baby stop to make a purchase at a market vendor. Safety seats? nah…
The photograph below takes the cake ~ a motorcycle, speeding at a good 50 km per hour, with the back passenger balancing a large glass sheet between the two riders. We shudder at the thought of the glass debris, should a bump in the road catch the rider off guard…
We were traveling behind these guys with their pane of glass and were careful to keep quite a distance, until they slowed down at their destination.
Can’t account for taste (in any culture) Or… what Hoi An tailors think appeals to westerners.
It is always enlightening to see what merchants think that their clientele may want.
In Hoi An, one of the world’s best places for tailor-made clothing, one can walk in a shop in the morning, and leave in the evening with a full ward-robe, custom tailored, including however many visits may be required to get the item to fit just right.
The Hoi An tailor culture goes far back ~ maybe 200-300 years… As far back as written records go, in the form of early travelers’ reports, there seems to have been a vibrant cloth-making cottage industry in Hoi An. To this date, Hoi An tailors are efficient, low cost and (mostly), high quality. They can typically copy just about any item of clothing, be it from a photograph or from a customer bringing a specific favorite outfit to be duplicated.
Perhaps the suits below are “tongue in cheek”… or perhaps they think that these suits would appeal to western tourists… and who knows, maybe they do?! In any case, nice threads there!
Modern pop art on a suit…
Gold and black suit, anyone?
Our personal favorite is this vintage style floral suit.
What are some of YOUR favorite cultural differences, encountered during your travels?
We love hearing from you. ~ Do share your thoughts and comments with us.
I miss the photos on this post more than any other. Still haven’t been able to get my son to try to fix this. Oh well – was a really fun and informative read. I’m using my imagination to fill in the blanks.
Sharon gotta get ya to the local library 🙂 I know how much you will enjoy all the visuals! Anyhow, so glad you enjoyed it. Differences are always so much fun to observe and to learn about. One of the best parts about travel. Up there with the food. Haha.
xo
Peta
Perfect take on the differences. Poor John is hanging out for a haircut in Ho Chi Minh City next week.
Well thank you.. given you have been a bunch of times, I’m glad that it resonates with you as well. Ah hope he got a $1 shave as well! Ben loves those.
Peta
WONDERFUL POST.
Ingenuity is indeed the “mother” of invention and your cultural travels prove this old adage.
I expect to see Ben wearing the PERSONAL FAVORITE FLORAL in your next post instead of slinking on a Lilliput stole drinking beer in boring duds. Get with IT Ben!
Whoops . . . I didn’t mean to imply you STOLE beer . . . correction “stool”
Hahaha… YUP, get out of those boring duds and into one of those jazzy snappy suits! He keeps telling me that working in the defense industry it might stick out a little, but I reminded him, he is also in bamboo now, so he can give it a go!!
So glad you enjoyed this post so much…
Peta
Wonderful as always.
Do any of the Vietnamese where suits like those? I’ve only traveled in Europe and a honeymoon in Mexico, but in South Western France I went into one Restaurant’s only bathroom and had to walk past free standing urinals in the middle to get to the one enclosed toilet.
We have never seen any Vietnamese person wear suits like these, no. The women though do wear prints, dots, stripes, and often a different design on pants as from the top. It looks really cool and interesting.
Good case of a cultural difference there, in France! Ah, you have yet to encounter the Asian squat toilet.
I LOVEVIetNam and agree that you have described the ‘cultural difference’ perfectly.
Once again, your photos are absolutely stunning!
Thank you and thank you!
I’m building up my photos so that I have lots of painting choices.
Peta
Love this! It’s so interesting. But it’s the photos that are the best. Love Ben channelling his inner Gulliver.
Thank you for the oh so nice compliment re my photography .
Re Ben it’s funny as he has broken a few of those chairs so now he doubles em up! 🙂
Peta
Excellent post Peta.
As you point out, these types of cultural differences are precisely what makes travel so fun and interesting. Also, the point you make about frustrations is right on target as well. But the mark of seasoned travelers like you and Ben is noticing and appreciating the differences without judging the differences. It’s a good lesson for all travelers. ~ James
Thank you James.
For us, irritation about cultural differences is the canary in the mine and is an important warning sign when we get to that point, that we must re boot and move on, or adjust.
There is really no reason to get frustrated with cultural differences, yet we all do at some point or another. And yes, the key is to not judge the differences. There really is no wrong or right, just differences.
Peta & Ben
Interesting. I just had a massage this past week and the girl from China kept manipulating my ear. I wondered how far in her fingers would go, and yes, it does feel invasive, but now I understand. I agree with the no shoes in the house, though.
That’s funny. I am just debating with myself whether or not to go back for that ear cleaning thing ~ a lot more invasive than fingers to be sure, yet, the feeling afterwards is actually quite great. So I think I AM going to brave it. Soon.
Taking shoes off at the door when one comes in, is becoming more and more common globally and yes it so makes good sense.
Peta
It’s good to know people are more sun smart than ever but I can’t imagine how uncomfortable all those layers must feel on a hot and humid day. I think I’ll skip the ear cleaning!
The temperatures right now are scorching hot as is the humidity. And yet, people are still wearing their socks and their gloves. Clearly, they must just be used to it. Many of them will only wear these additions while on the motorbike whereas we have seen plenty food vendors wearing socks and even a jacket sometimes.
Peta
I live in a predominantly Asian part of the city so I’m very familiar with the tendency to cover up in the sun, including gloves and face masks. I can’t help but wonder how stifling hot it must be with that additional layer.
Reading this post is like a mini-visit itself. Loved it, Peta, especially the packed beaches at night.
Glad you enjoyed your mini visit to Hoi An with us. It must be awfully hot with those extra layers but I do think that it is probably something that locals are used to. We noticed as well in Sri Lanka for example, that if the temperatures went below 80 then people got cold and would pull out their jackets and sweaters. So all its all relative!
Love the custom of going to the beach at sundown.
Peta
Very fun, guys! I wonder if I read this originally – it all sounds very familiar, but I’m sure some of my own travels have made me aware of many of these. I’ve even adopted some! For many years now, I’ve not worn shoes in my house and I blanch at the idea of bringing all that street dirt in. I doubt I’ll ever sit 3 or more on a motorcycle, though, or heaven forbid, transport a piece of glass on one!
Lex, you probably did read our first posting from 2016. It does seem that more and more people globally are instituting the “leave the shoes at the door” approach ~ does make so much sense.
We admit to sitting 3 to a motorbike in Sri Lanka on occasion, but definitely not our preferred mode to be sure.
Peta
Peta, I’m thinking that after being covered up all day there might be a need to shower before a good soak, just sayin’. Your photos of the scooters have me cracking up. I’ll bet some of them do to.
We always see meat hanging in the heat when we are in the Caribbean. Not very appetizing, but to each his own way. I was chastized mightly by a local at a Paris cafe when I turned my chair to face my daughter. I had to have the waiter explain what I was doing wrong since I did not understand a word of the gentleman’s outrage. He said it was considered rude to turn your back on others. Live and learn.
Once when visiting the Dominican Republic, my then ten year old daughter walked onto our beachside balcony and screamed, ‘mommy, they are all naked!” Hubby was pleased with that one.
Fun post that has me smiling! Take care.
Suzanne, thanks for your observations of a variety of cultural differences. I do remember being on a beach near San Francisco with my oldest son who was then about 3 or 4 at most and it was only an hour after being on a nude beach, that he observed and remarked on the nudity…
Cultural differences are very fun to observe and enjoy, no matter where.
Peta
This was such a fun read (and the visuals are GREAT). Ben perched on that little stool, the families on motorbikes, gathering at the beaches by moonlight, that daisy patterned and perfectly tailored suit…it’s a fascinating peek into a very different culture.
I agree, cultural differences really enrich our travels—even just traveling in the U.S., there are so many differences we encounter from one part of the country to another, but it is obviously much more subtle than what you find in your exotic adventures.
Laurel thanks for noting our visuals and the positive feedback! So glad you enjoyed it all….
The interesting thing is that we often experience the most culture shock when we re enter the U.S. We wrote a post about it when we returned to live in Chicago a few years back, after living out of the country for many years. The culture shock was actually really overwhelming at first.. until we adjusted accordingly.
http://www.greenglobaltrek.com/2015/07/culture-shock-america-chicago.html
Peta
And these all are also what Indonesians do. I remember when I was probably 4 or 5 years old, my dad who at that time only had a motorbike would always take me and my mom around. She told me there were times when I fell asleep on the motorbike and lost my shoes, and they only noticed this when we got home. As for the protection against the sun, my mom always makes sure whenever she has to go out during day time, no part of her skin would be exposed to the tropical sun, and she often encourages me and my dad to do the same. But we’re too lazy.
Thanks for this Bama. Yes, we have also noticed many of these differences that we included here, in other countries. Those are some great memories for you no doubt and thanks so much for sharing them. Your mom is so right about covering up in the sun. I grew up in South Africa and we had no such awareness back then and used to back as kids lying around the pool or at the beach. We even used baby oil as teenagers ~ and literally got fried. So much skin damage, yikes.
Nice to hear your feedback, thanks for stopping by …
Peta
I wholeheartedly agree that people are more similar than they are different, at the core. But I do enjoy experiencing culture differences.
I roared with your ‘the tables and chairs are manufactured in Lilliput’ Ben is definitely Gulliver sized in comparison to the local population (although the younger generation is catching up with him in height)
I did not come across (or notice) the ear cleaning treatments in Hanoi but I’d have signed up for one if I had.
I am so wanting to relocate with you! Someday
Spot on Lisa. The joys of being so similar and the joys of being so different!!
It is interesting how small framed most Vietnamese are. We Westerners tend to be taller, bigger.. and nowhere is that side by side comparison so evident as Ben drunk on a lil red Liliput size chair haha.
I can’t wait to get my ears cleaned. Nervous of course because Western medicine frowns on Q tips, never mind huge sharp instruments. But I trust they know what they are doing and it feels great afterwards…
Come and relocate, or at least VISIT. There must be a harbor for your floating home somewhere close to here. 🙂
So good to hear from you Lisa. Glad you got a rest in Brazil.
xoxo
P
Hi Peta and Ben, I met you less than one year ago. I appreciate a repost since it is obviously new to me and relevant to the present moment. I love your entire paragraph on how cultural differences add richness and how people are more similar than different.
A good reminder on protection from the sun and no skin showing. We can learn from this. The evening beach energy must be amazing. The ear cleaning was very interesting.
I love this post on many levels. Thank you for sharing (again:)
Erica, we have SO many wonderful posts which reflect our time spent here both 3 years ago and 6 years ago, that it was hard to select just ONE to repost. But this one, we felt was not time specific, as everything still holds true and also is a topic that is important to us.
Cultural differences are the spice of life. The butter to the baguette. The rice noodles to the pho.
There is SO much energy at the beach come sundown, that there is a strange buzzing sound from all the people. Vietnamese are not shy and not quiet and it is a treat to see so many people enjoying their ocean “backyard”. And the skies here at that time, are something remarkable.
Thanks for reading and so glad you enjoyed this post. Ben was wary (said it might be like “re fried beans” but refried beans are actually really good…. 🙂
Peta
I believe I recall this post from the 2016 version which I found fascinating.
I laughed out loud at your title of tables made in Lilliput. Oh and just so you know in Canada everyone takes their shoes off before coming into a home. Perhaps its because we have so little summer weather it would be a snow track if people left their boots on!
As to that barber treatment it looks more like a medical procedure. In Turkey the barber lights the ear hair on fire and then swats it out once the hair has been sufficiently ‘trimmed’. I would never have believed it. Maybe Dave will have to ask for that at our local shop. 🙂
Sue, glad you enjoyed the reread of this post.
Ben definitely looks like Gulliver too, in that photo. And given the beers he had, they could easily have tied him up!
When we lived in Chicago we also left boots at the door in winter, but it was harder to get others to follow the doctrine in the summer moths. But it definitely makes so much sense, from a hygiene point of view.
Lighting the ear hair on fire! Wow, I would definitely like to see THAT. One of my pet peeves is seeing ear hair growing out of mens ears and noses, so I am all for it. For THEM, haha. Leave it to the pros if you value Dave’s ears…. 🙂
Peta
As a fair-skinned Scot, I can really identify with the anti-sun strategies! I often feel out of place amongst those in skimpy tops and shorts with my long pants, big shirt, and large-brimmed hat. No way can I expose my skin to strong sun 🙁.
I hear ya and really we all should protect our skins more given that we now know the damage that the sun can do. A little is ok, gotta get that Vitamin D, but when you have skin that is so fair as yours is (and Bens) then the Vietnamese way, is the way to go…
Peta
Wonderful post. And all so true… You have definitely managed to single out this uniqueness of Vietnam. It’s just a shame that after a few weeks in a country, we adapt and forget these first impressions. I travelled with a friend in the autumn who had never been to Vietnam or South East Asia before; it was such fun to experience Vietnam again through her eyes…
Lieve
Thank you for the positive feedback and thoughtful response. It is very true that we adjust and adapt to differences once we are in a place for a while. First impressions are very strong. For example, when you arrive in a new home, the first photos one takes are important, because later on, the impressios and feelings change, after we adjust and everything seems “so normal and obvious”.
One of the reasons I really enjoy if friends or family come to visit us, is seeing and hearing their first thoughts and impressions. Especially in a country like Viet Nam which has so many new sights and so many cultural differences. Such a treat.
Peta
I love all these cultural differences. For me cultural differences are one of the biggest attractions of travel – seeing the enormous variety of ways to do life. We are all so creative!
Alison
I like that expression Alison “ways to do life”. Amen to that. Cultural differences are just so much fun, so much learning. Each time we discover a new country, it feels like we are getting a masters degree in that country’s geography, history, culture etc and I love that. I was such a lousy student in school, this more than makes up for all those years of boredom in a classroom.
As well, in this disheartening era of vilification of “the other”, where differences are immediately seized upon to judge, ridicule, insult etc, it is important to remind ourselves that these cultural differences are an asset and something to be valued and protected.
Peta
That vintage style floral suit would look good on Ben! 🙂 What a fun post, guys. You are right that all these unique cultural differences become normal once one lives or travels in certain areas for a while. I’d never even think about writing blogs about this kind of stuff, which offers such good reading and fun photos!
When I first came to the US in 2002 and, a couple of years later, traveled extensively overland, I played with the idea of writing an article or even a book about the many (subtle and less subtle) differences between the US and Belgium. I took notes, but the entire idea disappeared as differences started to blur into my life and soon enough, the US lifestyle became my new normal. Another book idea/concept stored in the drawer.
Even now, I think I should write more blogs about the unique ways of the nomadic life or our frugal ways. But, two factors keep me from doing so: it would take effort and extra time to create a cohesive blog like that and, since this has been my life for sixteen years, I don’t really see what’s special or different about it anymore. Everything is just normal. 🙂
Liesbet, these are thoughtful insights. The biggest hugest hurdle of cultural change that Ben and I have experienced was when we returned to live in Chicago in 2016 (I think it was) for a year and a half. This actually for us, after living out of the U.S. for almost a decade was a HUGE culture shock and we did write a post about it.
With regard to ideas, and creativity, I think that we all get many ideas, but the key factor is whether we decide to take the time and focus our energy and effort on those ideas. Otherwise they do just dissipate as you have noted.
Yes, the extraordinary or noteworthy becomes normal with time, which is why we enjoy the immediacy of writing in our blog about it, if it were a book, we would never get to it. I feel as though in your blog, you DO constantly address your nomadic lifestyle on a frugal budget and that it is very interesting to others who may live their lives completely differently.
Thank you as always for your feedback on our Green Global Trek. A pleasure to read you.
Peta
Great observations! I should have taken note of “sun aversion” a long time ago…I shudder to think of all those years I roasted with just baby oil! Differences in risk aversion is a big one. I remember as a young backpacker in Thailand seeing a man fall out of the back of our crammed, shared taxi-van. I was so worried about him and told the driver we should take him to a clinic. No one else (including the injured guy) seemed the least bit stressed. Finally, coming from a cold climate with snowy winters, I got in the habit early of always taking my shoes/boots off before entering the house. It’s totally automatic for me. Anyway, fun read! Cheers, Caroline
Fantastic look and descriptions of the cultural phenomena in Hoi An, Peta. Fascinating with the face masks, especially; and the beach scenes at close of day. Loved the tiny seating for dining, though only in the photos…I think I would find this uncomfortable. I gasped at the photo of the man with the sheet of glass on the motorbike. Thanks so much for this adventurous visit.
Well thank you Jet. The face masks are definitely something that as a foreigner, one notices right away, as being “so different”, but after being here for a few weeks, it definitely becomes the “new normal”. The tiny seats are rather strange at first, but after a while one gets used to it (sort of). It’s so much easier for Vietnamese to sit like that because firstly they usually have much smaller frames than Westerners and also they are used to sitting in squat position, not something that comes easily to most foreigners (unless one does yoga).
Glad you enjoyed this post so much.
Peta