Saigon ~ Our first 48 hours in Viet Nam…

If you have been following our Green Global Trek for a while now, then you most likely know that we are both enamoured with Viet Nam. Always have been ~ since our first stay and travels here, and it is a country which keeps pulling us (happily) back. (There are 76 blog posts already in our archive history, dedicated to the time we have spent in Viet Nam over the last six years!)

When we left Nicaragua in 2013 to embark on an almost two year South East Asian nomadic adventure, the first place we flew to with a one way ticket, was Viet Nam. And we stayed… and lived on an organic farm in Hoi An for about 3 months. I had to drag Ben away from Hoi An (his favourite place on earth possibly/probably) so that we could go to Cambodia, Laos and Thailand. We returned to Viet Nam for more extensive travel within the country, with our son Adam, a year later. Together, the three of us went way South to the Mekong Delta and North to Hanoi. The highlight of that trip together, was our motorbike adventure for 10 days on the Ho Chi Minh trail in Central Viet Nam.

One of the intentions of our initial two year travels in South East Asia, was to determine which places we might return to at some point, to create a home base. We down selected to three: Sri Lanka, Bali and Viet Nam. As you know, we made Sri Lanka our home base for almost three years because of Ben’s work opportunity there. And still, Ben had been rooting hard for for Hoi An to be home base. So much so, that he actually thought that just maybe we could have two home bases: Sri Lanka AND Viet Nam. En route to Sri Lanka (three years ago) we stopped in Hoi An, rented an apartment and stayed for six weeks. Two home bases in two different countries, which turned out to be unrealistic (twelve hours of travel apart) and he has been wistful about Hoi An, ever since, and until today.

And so, here we are, back in Viet Nam, starting off with a week in Saigon, to launch Ben’s new job. And yes, at the end of this week, we will be returning to Hoi An!

I (Peta) was scheduled to spend two weeks solo in Bali, while Ben did a week of work in the Philippines (one part of his job) and another week of work in Saigon, (the other part of his job) and the original plan was to meet in Hoi An.

However, after his very busy, productive and exciting week in the Philippines, Ben keeps trying to get me to leave Bali early and join him in Saigon. but I am having none of it.. I am very happy in my glorious Balinese setting. …

However, he tries a final strategy to get me to join him in Saigon. He points out that if I don’t meet him there, then he will be eating that first ban xeo (Vietnamese pancake) without me! At this, I relent, and get on a plane to Viet Nam a week earlier than previously arranged, to meet him in Saigon, and to have that first ban xeo together.

The way to get to this girl’s heart is definitely via ban xeo!

I shift gear from the tranquility of Bali, to the buzz of city life in Saigon. Arriving anywhere after spending time in Bali can be somewhat of an adjustment. Yet, given our nomadic lifestyle I am adept at changing gear and enjoying whatever the current location has to offer.

We stay in a small $17 a night room. It’s called an ‘apartment’ but that’s just because, in this little single room there is a fridge, and a sink and a washing machine, and a bed. A little strange, but it’s clean and comfortable enough. Most importantly, it is in a great location, near the Saigon river, and away from summer tourists.

Our first bite ~ breakfast on the street, around the corner. Vietnamese food is opportunistic. When you see it, you try it, or you may never see it again… Many of the small street food vendors, make a limited quantity of food and once it’s all sold, they are done for the day.

Breakfast: Mi Quang  ~ Chewy turmeric noodles, peanuts, quail eggs, shrimp, fresh herbs and banana flower with crispy rice cracker and chili sauce. This is the stuff our food dreams are made of, when we are in other countries and longing for Vietnamese street food.

After breakfast, we do what we do in any city. We walk….in any direction, to see what comes our way… Ben has two days before his meetings start. We use these days to explore by foot. We are interested in what District 3 has to offer…

The classic Vietnamese street food set up. Small plastic chairs low to the ground, bowls of rice noodles and broth.. every seat taken and some serious eating going on. The Vietnamese eat almost all their meals on the street, valuing freshness, fast service and low cost.
Fresh lychees! One of our very favourite fruits in the world, in season now in Viet Nam. I (Peta) ate lychees as a child in South Africa, so to me they are a fruit symbolic of my childhood years. Joy oh joy. (1 kilo of lychees (2.2 lbs) = $1.60)

Saigon may have the highest density of motorcycles per capita in the world. With a population of 13 million people, and motorcycles being the prime mode of transportation Saigon is often characterised as being chaotic and hectic. Crossing the road is an acquired skill and an acquired taste. However, if we can handle Delhi, we can certainly handle Saigon.

Kids join their parents on motorcycles, sometimes two adults and two or three kids per bike ~ helmets are sold on almost every street, and these ones for children are pretty creative and fun.
This city was called Saigon, until the Communist North Vietnamese forces defeated South Viet Nam and its U.S. ally. To symbolically express that North Viet Nam now had control of the South, Ho Chi Minh renamed Saigon “Ho Chi Minh City”. This was a touchy emotional topic for South Vietnamese, but today forty years later, the two names are used interchangeably and there is no preference by locals one way or another.
We walk along the Saigon river, which weaves like a snake through the city and creates a green band of calm nature.
The river front is also a place for exercising, with exercise stations placed at regular intervals. We watch as this man is stretching and chanting, moving Qi (energy) through his body. He inspires me to join in.

The predominant feeling for us in these first two days in Saigon, is that we are pretty pleased with ourselves for somehow having found a way to be living in Viet Nam once again.. and having dodged a crisis.

Our walk takes us in front of a large temple, and the chanting draws us in…

85% of Vietnamese are practising Buddhists. They follow the Mahayana tradition which is folowed in China, Korea and Japan (as opposed to the Theravada lineage which is followed in India, Myanmar, Laos and Sri Lanka.) This sculpture is of Quan Am, the Bodhisattva of compassion. (Devotees pray to her for guidance, fertility and protection.)
The lotus flower is the symbol of Buddhism and is often sold outside of temples to be used as part of offerings to Buddha.
As we sit amongst the people chanting, the sound is all encompassing and at this moment, we both get the feeling that “we are home”.

The woman next to me shares her prayer book. She prods me to sing along. I do my best..

Beautiful ancient Buddhist paintings on wood panels inside the temple.

Every neighbourhood in any Vietnamese city, has numerous food markets. Usually one large one, and several smaller ones. We know that all we need to do, is keep walking and we will run into a market….

All the fruit and vegetables look spectacularly fresh, and there is a huge variety of greens, as is usual due to the Vietnamese culinary emphasis on leaves and fresh herbs.
Cucumbers, carrots, two types of eggplants, radish, turmeric, ginger ~ a chef’s palette
Steamed mackerel, mackerel in tomato sauce…

Shells and snails.
Food prepping at the market.
Interesting characters everywhere…
A huge tray of mushrooms

INSERT PHOTO OF WOMAN MAKING THE BANH XEO

Glorious tropical fruit in abundance: watermelon, passion fruit, mangoes, lychees, mangosteen, rambutan, lingonberries, papaya.
Showing off the gorgeous fuschia-colored dragon fruit.
Durian fruit ~ known as the “king of fruits” It has a reputation (rightly so, of smelling intensely bad, but tasting delicious. A rare case of the smell and the taste being disconnected.
I decided it was high time to give it a go and try my first durian (much to Ben’s horror!) Durians are banned on public transportation, airports and hotels, all over Asia, for good reason. But I take the plunge and am determined to get beyond the the smell and the visual. I am surprised by the rich caramel, coffee like flavour, and tuck into my first durian. Ben tries it too (nose blocked) and reluctantly agrees its good. Now we get it…. taste and smell are in this case, different tracks.
Bamboo shoots ~ used for many dishes in Vietnamese cuisine. The Vietnamese have not only been successfully using bamboo for a thousand different uses, but as well, the shoots are incorporated into the food source.

There is always a cultural discovery around the next corner, in Viet Nam. Who knew that karaoke skills were valuable to sell lottery tickets?!

There are always some items in a market that we have never seen before, and pique our curiosity…

We spot some strange looking ‘furry’ eggs… on closer inspection it seems they are coated in fine straw pieces. And other baskets of mottled charcoal grey eggs in what looks like pieces of ash or charcoal.

We buy one of the straw covered eggs, as Ben wants to try it That looks way too funky for me… Ben reports it tasting akin to a pungent flavoured jelly, a pickled egg, and no need to eat it again thanks.

As we are looking for interesting street food for dinner, we are drawn by wafts of a delicious smell of ‘something’ cooking . And we see that all the little chairs and tables are FULL. So it has to be good with such an eager crowd. But what is it? It looks like some kind of fish stew.
It is not fish stew, no. It is a lot more exotic than that. Frog! Not just frog legs, but the whole frog.
Okay, this gets my French boyfriend excited and he waits for a tiny chair and table to become available, for his frog degustation. (Not for me, thanks.)

Other things we look for in any city, are foot reflexology and yoga. In Saigon, we find both, and take our first Vietnamese language yoga class. Yoga is one of those activities that don’t really require language. It is helpful, but not a necessity. Yoga is a ‘thing’ now in Saigon, we see quite a few places that offer it as part of a larger gym complex with workout machines and other classes. And as for the foot reflexology, that was a little harder to find, but when we did, we were rewarded with $12 an hour pretty decent reflexology and massages.

As we wrap up our exploration of the streets of Saigon, Ben has a few days of meetings, focusing on clarifying his work` priorities for the coming months. He is excited about being back in the world of bamboo, because of the massive environmental impact that he can have by contributing to the company’s success.

The Vietnamese part of his job is a straight up manufacturing set of tasks around closing down the current high end bamboo housing factory and relocating it to a different location, in Central Viet Nam.

The Philippines angle is a much more comprehensive set of tasks, to help shape a start up business which will make use of the raw material of bamboo in the construction industry. That is, the goal is to replace wood where ever possible with high quality bamboo equivalent. This will entail organising sustainable forestry practices in an area of the Philippines that has plentiful natural bamboo forests filled with giant bamboo.

In the Philippines, Ben is introducing ‘best practices‘ to harvest the bamboo in such a way that it helps to rejuvenate existing bamboo clumps.
Bamboo is not a tree, it is a grass and it is the fastest growing grass in the world. The more you cut it, the more it grows. Being back in a bamboo forest feels like deja vu. The Filipino partners of the venture are robust visionary plantation owners and farmers who have fully taken on the vision of creating a bamboo economy. Now comes the hard work of turning the vision into a reality ~ This is where Ben comes in….
We have been ‘on the road’ since we left Sri Lanka mid April ~ 2.5 months of living out of our suitcases. This short one hour flight from Saigon to Da Nang (closest airport to Hoi An) will be our last flight for a while….
Woo hoo! And we have arrived in Da Nang. Just an hour drive now to Hoi An ~ which will be our home base for the foreseeable future.

71 thoughts on “Saigon ~ Our first 48 hours in Viet Nam…

  1. Sharon Bonin-Pratt

    You two are pretty funny – is it the call of love? No, it’s a pancake singing seductively. Then a durian, a frog, and finally, bamboo. OK, I love pancakes (too much) and then I’m gonna skip around to bamboo – have eaten bamboo shoots – tasty. As for durian and frogs? I don’t even like french fries.

    Best wishes to you – I think you two are a great team – you look at everything as possibility and enjoy every moment as fulfillment.

    (I’m still not getting the photos but can see the videos – will try to get my son to assist with the problem.)

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Hahaja that’s a good one…! Not JUST a pancake, but a Vietnamese pancake . (Which really is not quite what we think of as a pancake in the Western world but seems to be the translation that is used)… Once you have a few of those, you will relate to the ‘seductive song’ aspect 🙂

      Our experience is that the old adage ‘what doesn’t kill us, makes us stronger’, applies well to times of crisis.

      Ben & Peta

  2. Caroline Helbig

    Lured to Vietnam by pancakes…I love it! I’m so glad you guys have that “we’re home” feeling and that initial impressions of Ben’s job are positive. Your food “tour” got me really excited, and a little grossed out. I’ve seen those weird-looking eggs in other countries and while I’ve been curious, I’ve never been brave enough to try. Good for Ben. Now I no longer need to try. How do they get like that? I hope the frog legs tasted good! Good for you with the durian. I’m still not past the smell.

    I had no idea that Saigon has that many people. Your motorbike video is great. I can’t imagine crossing that intersection.

    I’ve been curious about the local preference for the city’s two names. Thanks for clarifying.

    I can feel your passion for Vietnam in this post. All the best as you settle into your new home. Caroline&Mike

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Well, he certainly lured me a week earlier than anticipated and truth be told, with the food in Ubud, he was competing with a LOT!

      The pickled eggs are also known as “hundred year egg” or “thousand year egg”, and are made by preserving duck egg in clay, ash, salt, lime and rice hulls for several weeks to several months. The yolk turns dark green, almost black, with a creamy consistency and strong flavor, while the white becomes a translucent jelly with a salty flavour. The alkaline salt is the transforming agent at work. Ben says, now that he has tried it, no need to eat it again.

      Just to clarify… those were WHOLE frogs, not just the legs. Which kind of makes more sense actually to not throw out the whole body if you already have killed the frog. 🙂

      Thanks for the good wishes and support you guys.

      Peta

      1. carolinehelbig

        Thanks for the details on the pickled eggs. I won’t be rushing to try them. I think I’m so used to hearing only about frog legs that it didn’t even register when I wrote my comment. Makes sense not to waste the body!

  3. Oh, the Places We See

    So glad you posted your adventures in Saigon. We only toured Hanoi and Halong Bay on a recent trip to Vietnam — loving both. But wish we had gone to Hoi An and Saigon. We took a street food tour with a chef and saw several of the foods you included in this post. Neither of us was brave enough to try the preserved egg, but found it to be fascinating. Sitting on little stools slurping noodles, however, is something we’d do again and again. So good! Wishing you all the best in your travels and your settling in to a new place. We love following you.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Oh yes, you will just have to return for Saigon and especially Hoi An. Vietnamese cuisine is our favourite type of food and it’s what got us here in the first place and kept us coming back. It’s true that taking maximum advantage of local foods, does require some courage occasionally. Especially when foods are different or we don’t recognise them. With Ben being French, part of his culture is that you try anything at least once!

      So glad you are enjoying our Green Global Trek adventures, and thanks for the lovely wishes.

      Peta

  4. lexklein

    What a joy-filled post, Peta, as you and Ben start your next new life! I can feel your excitement and happiness about being back in Hoi An and am so thrilled that Ben scored this job right at the right time in your lives and that it fits so well with both your expertise and your geographic love. Everything was aligned, and you deserve it! Enjoy!

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thanks Lex… Am answering you from Hoi An, where we have finally arrived and are sub leasing a friends house until we find our own rental. We are both pretty happy and excited about being back in Viet Nam, for sure. In large part thanks to the friendliness of the locals. Love how the Vietnamese people are not at all shy!

      Things definitely have aligned in serendipitous ways! Thanks for your enthusiasm…

      Peta

  5. CURIOUStotheMAX

    Can’t wait to see pictures of the two of you on motorbikes with your matching kiddy “piggy” helmets which will be testimony to the fact that both of you will try to eat almost anything anywhere

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Hahaha Judith that’s pretty funny. I haven’t seen those cute helmets for adults, but if I do, I’ll be sure to get one! Ben is definitely way more courageous than me when it comes to food. It’s his French blood. He can’t help it.

      Peta

  6. Eileen

    My niece vacationed last summer in Vietnam. Her photos of the rural landscapes were beautiful. She is teaching near Dubai and spent time in Jordan this summer before coming back to Oregon for a few weeks. I love traveling vicariously with family and blogging friends.

    Your photos are awesome. What a wondrous world you open up for me, Thank you, I might have risked the smelly food, but not the frog, though I do like frog legs. So happy that everything turned out well after a time of stretching.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Rural Viet Nam is very gorgeous. We loved driving through Central Viet Nam some years back, with our son, on our motorcycles. It was a very special magical time.

      Thanks for the compliments… If you think about it, it makes sense to eat the whole frog once it has already ended its life to be on a plate, rather than just eating the legs and throwing the rest of the body away. Imagine if everyone did that with chickens as well…:) As a mostly vegetarian myself, I prefer not to eat dead animals, but will occasionally indulge especially if we are travelling or it’s something extra special. I try not to be too extreme food wise.

      Peta

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Haha well thank you Tracey!

      We like “enthusiasm, positivity and boundless lust for life”… and appreciate your characterisation.

      I consider myself relatively brave with trying new foods… but Ben gets the medal for food bravery. Being French, it is in his blood to appreciate originality and creativity especially when it comes to food. He will try just about anything and wants you to know that he ate the WHOLE frog not just the legs. When you think about it, it doesn’t make sense to only eat the legs! Imagine if we did that with chickens too.

      Peta

  7. Sharon Rosenzweig

    Good work daboatayuz. Glad you’re back together. Very touching the length Ben goes to reclaim his main squeeze.

    Inspiring how you weather storms with resilience. Plus, bamboo! Yay!!

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      “daboatayuz”…. This had us stumped for a while, until it clicked as “the both of you” and then we both cracked up!

      As you know, we are together way more than the average couple, as a result of our nomadic lifestyle. Being apart was definitely unusual for us and after a week, we were both ready to re connect, especially as so much was going on, in Ben’s world. But I agree it’s touching, and flattering too…

      Both pretty excited to be back in the world of bamboo (this speaks directly to the green part of Green Global Trek and as it speaks to the ‘Indiana Jones’ dimension of Ben which otherwise lies dormant when he is busy doing defense stuff). Looking forward to having positive environmental impact once again. Yeah!!

      xoxo
      Pete

  8. roughwighting

    Welcome to your old “new” home. I look forward to learning about Hoi An. I must admit I know so little about this part of the world. I’d like to know how you handle the language difference (is much English spoken there, and do you know Vietnamese?) And how do you handle the weather? The Vietnamese I know who were born in their country but have lived in the U.S. for many years admit they are hit hard with the heat and humidity when they return to their country to visit family. I love knowing you both through your blog, and feeling a bit more “international’ thanks to your terrific writing and photo-sharing.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thank you! How do we handle the language gap? It is not a gap, it’s a canyon! Why? Because Vietnamese language is a particularly hard one given that there are 6 different tones. So even if you get the word right, if the tone is wrong, then the meaning gets messed up. The great thing about the Vietnamese people, in our experience is that they are not shy and have a good sense of humor. Somehow we manage to communicate… Because as we all know, communication is primarily non verbal.

      In places where there are lots of tourists, like restaurants that cater to tourists, then people speak English. But where we were staying in District 3, very few people spoke English, which made it all the more fun for us! Restoring to pointing and pantomime usually works, but not always as our son Adam discovered when we travelled together. In a restaurant where he tried to indicate that he wanted to see the dish, he pointed to his eyes… and minutes later a bowl arrived full of goats eye balls! So sometimes it doesn’t work out that well, but usually it is less dramatic.

      The heat and humidity is pretty much the same as it is in Nicaragua where we lived for 6 years and Sri Lanka, where we lived for 3 years. It takes some getting used to when you have been away, that’s for sure. But after a week to ten days, one adjusts. And I don’t like air conditioning… so we primarily use fans and bodies of water.

      Thanks Pam for all the lovely compliments which are so nice to read!

      Peta

  9. Jet Eliot

    I thoroughly enjoyed this full experience looking at Saigon, Peta. Loved the food markets especially, also the restaurants and street eating. Crazy big bamboo! Loved all the motorcycles and that motorcycle video is wild! The adventuring you and Ben do is completely inspiring. Thanks so much for this post.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Jet, yes that particular species of bamboo is truly GIANT and grows in very few places in the world. This extraordinary alternative to timber should allow us to have significant environmental impact in the years to come. So glad you enjoyed this post!

      Thanks for taking the time to watch the video. The motorcycle traffic is non stop from all directions.. all day long. It is quite the sight.

      Peta

  10. Sue Slaght

    Peta your enthusiasm and joy for Vietnam jump right out of this article. Isn’t it fascinating how life finds you back in a location you love so much? I would love to be with you in Saigon to know what to try to eat. Your photos are magazine worthy! As to Saigon all those motorcycles gave us an initial fright but one learns to go with the flow which seems a bit like chaos until you get used to it.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Sue we are still marvelling at the fact that we are back in Viet Nam so unexpectedly. As I said to Ben: “The things you will do to get us back here!!” Haha. Thanks for the great compliment re the photos!!

      The motorcycles are a bit intimidating at first, but actually, after Sri Lankan buses, I would take the motorcycles of Saigon any time. It can be daunting to cross the road but the traffic does flow like a river, so everything keeps moving and somehow it works out.

      Peta

  11. lievelee

    Hoi An is by far my favourite place in Vietnam too… I spent a year in Vietnam and am hoping to go back in a few months. Strangely, it is certainly not the ban xeo that entice me. Great as they may be on the odd occasion, after a while I hankered for more familiar Western food – I was in a rather smaller place in Vietnam (Quang Ngai) just a bit to the South of Hoi An.

    Lieve

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Interesting, as our approach re the food is the exact opposite. Vietnamese cuisine is our favourite type of food in the world but occasionally when living here we will supplement it with other Western food but we prefer that the majority of our meals be Vietnamese because well, that’s part of the reason we like to be here.

      What were you doing in Quang Ngai and how did you like it there?

      Thanks for stopping by to read Green Global Trek and for taking time to share your thoughts

      Peta

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Jo, life is always rather interesting isn’t it? As long as we ride the waves and can tolerate the ups and downs it’s all rather wondrous. So far so good.

      Peta

  12. Gilda Baxter

    Peta, your excitement in this post is contagious. I love how well you describe things, I feel like I am there with you. I did not dare try the Durian fruit when I visited Thailand, but perhaps I should have been a little less fussy. The “ban xeo” is certainly a great reason to join Ben in Saigon and sounds like you have made the right decision. I am yet to visit Vietnam, but I hope it will not be too long before I do. I will be looking forward to hearing a lot more about this new chapter of your life 🙂

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thanks Gilda, that is a lovely compliment indeed. I have heard and read about durian being a powerhouse of nutrition so I think I just convinced myself both to try it and to like it. It worked! So glad I did that in Saigon, as here in Hoi An, when I tried to buy it again, it cost $6 for a small piece of durian!

      I do hope you get to visit Viet Nam as it is definitely a country to put on our wish list for travels.

      Peta

  13. Ann Coleman

    Your posts are always so complete that I feel as if I’m getting a real picture of what it is like to visit wherever you happen to be. And now I feel as if I have visited Viet Nam!

    Thanks for sharing your travels with us through your photos and your journals. It is opening up a whole new world for me!

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thank you Ann, that is a wonderful compliment to give us. Plenty more posts of Viet Nam upcoming and if you are impatient, there are a stack of them in our archives.

      So glad you are enjoying our Green Global Trek.

      Peta

  14. carlystarr

    I loved this. You captured the city I love so well. Loved the pics of you guys on those exercise things by the canal, that is so close to my house where you are there. Enjoy the rest of your Vietnam adventure.
    And isnt ban xao just the best thing ever.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thanks Carly.Those exercise things are so much fun! I want the one for swinging the legs from the hips in my next garden! You certainly are in a terrific location. Yup, ban xeo is incredible. I love how each vendor makes it differently, and here in Hoi An, the ban xeo is much smaller and crispier than the one in Saigon. Tonight we even found vegetarian ban xeo.

      Peta

  15. Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter

    Thank you for the wonderful tour of somewhere I have still to visit. Some day! I have tried durian in Hong Kong, but as a veggie I am spared the decision about whether to try frog 😀. The eggs don’t appeal but I am fairly sure John has tried them. He and Ben have a similar approach to food.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thanks Anabel. There are lots of posts in our archives on Viet Nam (should you have the time and inclination) and no doubt there will be lots more. My ideal way of eating is preferably plant based (no fish, no meat, no eggs, no dairy) ~ but every now and again I will eat local specialties. I do draw the line though.. Frogs, nah not happening. Funky eggs.. um definitely not. Ben however is invincible. So glad I finally tried durian!

      Peta

  16. Alison and Don

    Great post. Good to hear of your progress into this next phase. It sounds as though Viet Nam is treating you well. We loved it there and I really regret that we never got to Hoi An.
    Alison

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thanks Alison. It is amazing how busy and very popular Hoi An has become since we were first here six years ago. There are tons of Korean visitors jamming up the streets of the old town. Am grateful we know our way around, due to having spent a lot of time here, that it is very easy to get away from the throngs of people. But it is rather strange to see all the buses and cars now in the streets, whereas before it was less prevalent. Nonetheless, Hoi An is a magical place for us and we are thrilled to be back.

      Peta

  17. Darlene

    Looks like Viet Nam is made for you or is it you are made for Viet Nam? I love how this all fell together for you two. To think you could be bribed by a pancake. It must be love! Have fun in your new adventure. I look forward to more.

  18. Patti Maghamfar

    I’m going to enjoy reading about your life in Viet Nam. The region is not on my radar, so I will visit vicariously through the two of you.

    I am not an adventurous foodie, black eggs, frogs, … shudder the thought!

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Oh glad that you are looking forward to our forthcoming posts. It is amazing to us realising that we have been based in S.E. Asia now for six years! We love so many other places in the world, but this region just keeps pulling us back. In large part due to the food. Okay, this post has pretty adventurous stuff, that most people are unlikely to try, and I am with you on skipping the eggs and the frogs. But I sure enjoy watching Ben try this kind of stuff.

      Peta

  19. RetirementallyChallenged.com

    Those must be pretty good pancakes (or, maybe it’s true love 🙂 ) to get you to leave that paradise in Bali early. I am so happy that this new adventure is working out so well for you and I look forward to seeing what you come up with as your home in Hoi An… are you going to be able to have an outdoors bathroom like in Sri Lanka? That was so magical.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Ah, it is true love. Love conquers all. Only love could actually get me from Bali to Saigon! But that said, I have been eating a LOT of banh xeos…

      Our bathroom in Sri Lanka was special. So were the monkeys and the birds and the life of the jungle at night. At the time we were both fully aware and conscious that we were enjoying all the lovely moments ~ a unique slice of life ~ as in the next location for home base, we would have something else, but something different to this as this is the nature of our nomadic lifestyle. Which we love and embrace with all the pros and cons that each place bring us.

      I remember well that when we left our beautiful home in Chicago, minutes away from Lake Michigan, with huge wooden decks, we thought we would never love a place as much as that. And then in Granada, soaking in our little pool which was in an open courtyard with the kitchen and living room, that we surely would never find as good a place. And then come the spot in Sri Lanka.. with the birds and the monkeys and the bathroom we envisioned and created. I think of it all very often. But I know that as we move around, we cannot have the same things in different places and we are both okay with that. We trust that we can create a beautiful nest where ever we may land.

      Peta

  20. Bama

    The first time I went to Vietnam back in 2011 I must admit that I didn’t really enjoy the food. However, people’s palates change, and so did mine. In 2017 I went to Central Vietnam (Da Nang, Hue, Hoi An) and I looooved the food! I appreciate the fresh vegetables more now, and there’s this one place that does an excellent banh mi in Hoi An — the best I’ve ever had. I’m glad you ended up enjoying durian. I find it rather amusing that a lot of people hate its smell, although some, like you and Ben, managed to get over the pungent odor. That ‘furry’ egg you had is actually century egg, a kind of preserved egg popular in East and Southeast Asia. I had it the first time in Hong Kong where it was served in a savory congee, and despite its look I actually really like it. Some places have it in stir-fried dishes, something you might want to try in the future?

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      You’re right Bama, the focus on fresh greens is a game changer. In Hanoi, for example, this is not the case and can be challenging for Peta who doesn’t eat that much meat. Hoi An on the other hand seems to have a never ending supply of greens and herbs that get added to every dish. For us, Vietnamese food has always been top of the list, and that’s what brought us to Vietnam in the first place.

      There is one Banh Mi place that is uniquely popular in Hoi An, in part due to Anthony Bourdain and these days it’s very crowded, but the truth is there are so many little stalls that do excellent banh mi all around town, that it’s really about finding the one that you personally favour.

      Thanks for the added layer of insight on the Century egg. Next time we are in Hong Kong, I’ll look out for it in congee or stir fry.

      Ben

  21. The Widow Badass

    As you know Peta, the thought of ban xeo would get me there too! I totally get that. I don’t understand why more Vietnamese restaurants here in Canada don’t offer it on the menu. The rare ones that do only offer it on certain days of the week, so I have to plan around that. AND I DO. Thanks for sharing!

    Deb

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Well Deb, we girls have a lot in common. We both plan around eating Ban Xeo! interesting tidbit is that in Saigon, the Ban Xeo is a large single “pancake”, which is the way we have had it in the U.S. But here in Hoi An (next post upcoming) they are made in small skillets and are more crispy/crunchy and about half the size of the Saigon ones. Both are excellent, although we prefer the crispy Hoi An ones and different vendors add their own twist on the dishes, so you have to find the one you like the best.

      Peta

  22. Lisa Dorenfest

    Wow. Ben is the poster child for ‘you’ll manifest your desired reality if you consistently put your intentions out there’. He looks seriously happy as he waits for a tiny chair and table to become available.

    Although I spent the predominance of my time in the north, you have me longing to return to this country of affordable apartments, city buzz, motorcycle tours, Quan Am and best food in SE AsiaI

    Saigon did not feel the same to me as Hanoi, but somehow, your pictures are reminding me more of Hanoi. Maybe that place is calling me back and I will someday manifest my own intention to live and work there someday when I get tired of floating.

    Welcome home!

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Yup Lisa, actually Ben has had a refrain since we were here the first time ” I am not done with Hoi An”. And so yes I do believe he manifested this.

      Hear hear for the “best food in SE Asia”. Hoi An in particular is known for it’s specialty dishes of which there are quite a few.

      There are parts of Saigon which are similar to Hanoi and yet they also feel quite different. I’m sure if you have the intention to return, then you will , someday when the time is right.

      Thank you.

      Peta

  23. Mabel Kwong

    That is SO cute Ben persuaded you to go to Viet Nam with ban xeo. A bribe that paid off 😀 It is amazing how Asian dishes like Mi Quang are made up of quite a few ingredients. Good start to the day by getting the nutrients your body needs. Quite a bit of walking but so much to see and do along the way. The setup for selling items and food really is simple. No need a fancy sign or a microphone, just putting out the goods and hoping someone will pass by. Some of the locals are so nice to pose for you.

    Yes you tried durian and glad you like it Peta! Maybe Ben has to eat a few more rounds of durian to become a fan of it….and he needs to convince to try some frog. I don’t mind durian, and it did take me a while to take that first bite…in fact, it took me into my teenage years to try it lol.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Mabel, the saying I think is that “the way to a mans heart is through his stomach”, however, in this case, that was the way to this girls heart!

      We walked everywhere as we know that once we get to Hoi An we will have a motorcycle for getting around and also are aware that Hoi An will be even hotter than Saigon. So we took advantage of being able to walk.

      We both do our best to try as many new foods as possible. It is interesting how sometimes we have preconceived ideas about things and this can prevent us from trying them. Sometimes we just have to go for it… Am so glad that I did with the durian.

      Peta

  24. Laurel

    I so appreciate the detail you put into your posts, both through your artistic photos and your words. I feel as though I’m right there with you.

    I would like a bowl of turmeric noodles with fresh shrimp and greens, say “no thanks” to the pickled eggs, cringe at the motorcycle traffic, feel peaceful seeing you in the Buddhist temple and relaxing by the river…and overall, love the way you two explore and immerse yourselves in life, wherever you happen to be.

    (You really do make me want some Vietnamese food, now! We just arrived in Quebec City and I’m going to hunt for a Vietnamese restaurant, LOL!)

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Laurel thank you for such truly lovely feedback on our blog. So nice to know our posts are so appreciated.

      Both really enjoyed your personal summary of the post and it had us smiling from ear to ear.

      Oh yesss.. Vietnamese food is what we eat no matter where in the world, if we can find it, we eat it! It always delivers. Hope you had a great meal.

      Peta

  25. Liesbet @ Roaming About

    My mouth is watering! I can’t believe Ben convinced you to leave Bali early! That’s true love… for food. 🙂 Endearing as well, especially since I might have done the same. Those photos make me want to jump on a plane as well. We love Vietnamese food. And, I’m curious to try durian now as well.

    I’m so glad that you are returning to Hoi An. Fortuitous in a way. Especially for Ben. And, I’m glad your stressful period has come to an end. At least this part. You’re home now… until the next adventure/crisis!

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Ah yes, Liesbet, it is true love. I went from blissfully tranquil to chaotic city. But of course, you guys are the same as us in that we spend almost every waking hour together. So after a week of being apart, it was great to reunite and be together. And food, as you might have gathered, especially Vietnamese food, is a big part of our lives together… It is what motivated us to start our South East Asian travels with Viet Nam and a big factor in what keeps pulling us back.

      Very fortuitous that we are back in Hoi An. We can hardly believe our good fortune. It feels so good to be home. And of course, life is always full of unexpected twists and turns… one just has to try to ride them with as much ease as possible.

      Peta

  26. twobrownfeet

    We loved Saigon! We’ve been there only once though and only for 2 days. It’s a place we’d love to explore more. Loved your colourful visuals and thanks for taking us back. Can’t wait to read more. xoxo
    Cheryl

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Cheryl, thanks for stopping by to read us and commenting. So glad you enjoyed our photos and the revisit to Saigon through our eyes. Next post on Hoi An is up and ready …

      Peta

  27. Erica/Erika

    Hi Peta and Ben, Favourite place on Earth for Ben, says a lot, since you both have been in amazing places. Why couples stay as couples? A Vietnamese pancake:) I did not know Vietnamese eat almost all their meals on the street. The exercise stations surprised me. “We are home” says it all. Surprisingly I have heard of the Durians, although I would not venture to try it. I could almost smell it over cyberspace:)

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Very true Erica, it does say a lot for Viet Nam. Specifically his favourite place on earth is Hoi An… but that’s in the next post 🙂

      Food is something we both take rather seriously, as you might have gathered… It would definitely be hard for me to be in a couple with someone whose main food was steak and potatoes and who does not appreciate or enjoy ethnic foods. No doubt about that.

      The exercise stations were fun. I want one of those hip swinging machine thingies in my house one day, so I can use it often.

      Ok, so that says a lot for the smell of durian, that the odour crossed into cyberspace and reached you!

      Peta

  28. anotherday2paradise

    Your wonderful posts always give me itchy feet, Peta. I’m so happy for you that you’re back in Viet Nam and thoroughly enjoying the life there. You look so serene in that first photo and definitely not as though you’d been living out of suitcases since April. The ban xeo looks so delicious, so I’m not surprised you followed Ben over tout de suite. As for the furry eggs and frogs, I’d definitely give those a huge swerve. Thanks for sharing your amazing photos again.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Hahah great comments. Ah one gets used to living out of a suitcase for months on end, it becomes the norm. That first ban xeo in the market was SO good, that we went back for it two more times (in five days)! I’m with you on skipping the furry eggs and frogs.

      Thanks for the compliments on the photos and so glad you enjoyed this post and our return to Viet Nam.

      Peta

  29. Dr Sock

    Although I have never been to Viet Nam, I love Vietnamese food, and especially ban xeo. During the years we lived in Alberta, Canada (our small city not a hot spot for world cuisine), one of our favourite restaurants was The Saigonese, which made outstanding Vietnamese pancakes.

    I love the videos that you posted. They give readers who haven’t been there a bit of an immersive experience (the flow of the motorcycles, the temple).

    Wow, that bamboo in the Philippines is huge! I am more familiar with the bush-like variety, maybe an inch in diameter. With the size of it, and it’s fast-growing nature, I can see how it could replace wood for many things. We have bamboo floors in our home.

    Jude

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Jude, the very thing that brought us to Viet Nam six years ago in the first place, was absolutely and definitively, the FOOD.

      When we lived in the burbs of Chicago with the four boys, Ben always said, one day let’s move to Argyle street where the Vietnamese community in Chicago are and that included our favourite restaurant. And I said, “Um, why don’t we rather move to Vietnam instead?”.

      He laughed his head off at the comparison and said, “Of course. That makes TOTAL sense!” And so, we did.

      Nice to know that the videos give a good sense of the place. That is something that we enjoy sharing on our blog when we can. Videos have the added dimension of sound which is often crucial to a culture and place. And all the movement and energy level can come through. We just waiting for the next wave of technology to allow smell to permeate! 🙂

      If you have bamboo floors, and kudos to you for that!! then you know how amazing bamboo feels to the touch and to the overall energy in a home. We built a beautiful bamboo home in Granada, which was a showcase for our bamboo housing building capabilities. The floor was bamboo, the walls, the ceiling, the beam system, the balcony, the staircase, the gates. Bamboo is an amazing sustainable material for construction.

      Thanks for your thoughtful comments, we so enjoyed reading them!

      Peta & Ben

  30. Jeff Bell

    Congratulations on your move to Hoi An and Vietnam. The area around Hoi And is varied with islands, beaches, mountians, countryside, and of course the beautiful city. Vietnam is a wonderful country, probably the one place I’d leave Bangkok for.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thanks Jeff. We did a fair amount of exploring the area around when we were here six years ago. Of memorable note was motorscooter trip we did over the mountains from Hoi An to Hue. It took way longer than we thought it would to get there, as we stopped at a nature reserve for a swim in the river and of course for Ban Xeo along the way….

      So maybe we will see you here in Viet Nam one day…

      Peta

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