7.4
It lasts about thirty seconds. As the table starts to sway under my laptop, I feel a familiar feeling of “Oh shit! What now?”
I look at Pete reading on the couch and shout “earthquake!!” She drops to the floor and crawls to the nearby bathroom, which she correctly assumes would be safer than the living room. In an instant she goes from chill, to fear. The house shakes violently, as if it were a small plane in extreme turbulence. Those thirty seconds feel more like thirty minutes.
I (Ben) have experienced earthquakes before in L.A. and in Tokyo, (on the 23rd floor in my office) but for Peta this is the first real big one and she feels literally shaken by the experience.
7.4 on the Richter scale is no joke.
Our common data point on earthquakes takes us back to our trips to Haiti (to organize the delivery of our Nicaraguan made bamboo shelters and seedlings) in the aftermath of a 35 second earthquake that killed 200,000 people and destroyed the lives of millions. Yet, Haiti was “only” a 7.1. (People died primarily due to inferior construction and buildings that collapsed in seconds into rubble.) We remember well (how can one forget?) the despair and the thick blanket of dust that hung in the air and covered everything.
The epicenter of this 7.4 earthquake is just an hour away near Huatulco, Oaxaca. The earthquake itself is felt as far as the capital of Oaxaca City and in Mexico City, hundreds of miles away. People feel the earth shaking even in Guatemala. Amazingly, no one in our area is hurt. Although in Huatulco near the epicenter, five people die as a result of the earthquake.
Strangely, nothing even falls off the shelves and no windows are broken. Our friends and neighbors report the same. And yet, in Oaxaca city about 600 miles away, there are reports of some rubble and physical damage to buildings.
As we sit on the bathroom floor looking at each other in disbelief of what might be yet another life reshaping event for us, the shaking stops. Peta asks me, “okay is that it? or is there more to come?” That’s when I break the news that there will likely be a series of after shocks, predictably smaller than this, but still potentially dangerous.
It is time to reckon with the fact that Mexico has a history of strong earthquakes due to three tectonic plates that make up the earth’s surface and are constantly jostling for position under Oaxac. The last massive earthquake in Oaxaca, in 2017, had a significant impact not just on the infrastructure but on the population’s psyche.
Shortly after the earthquake, we receive a government “emergency measure” text alerting everyone to the possibility of a tsunami!
Now, we know from living in Sri Lanka, which was devastated by a significant tsunami in 2004, that a tsunami is no joke either. We both have distinct memory of being in Peru when the tsunami hit in Asia and have heard numerous first person accounts from people in Sri Lanka who were fortunate enough to survive the tsunami. Of course there were thousands who did not. Their description of the sheer destructive force of the water sprang to mind and the thought of a possible tsunami is sobering indeed, as we live steps from the beach, at sea level.
Within minutes, our landlord is at our door to check on us. He tells us about his concrete hurricane bunker at the highest point of the property, on the hill behind us. We are to run up to the bunker, should there be a tsunami.
Then the first after-shock hits. It is almost as strong as the first earthquake. And then there are more… Peta is still shaking from the first one and hopes that the earth will stop moving soon.
In typical Peta fashion, once the rumbles subside, she turns this experience into a learning moment and googles her way into sufficient earthquake information to get comfortable with the sudden reckoning that we are indeed living in earthquake country. The 2017 earthquake in Oaxaca had tremors that continued for over a year!
We receive a flood of emails, texts and messages from friends all over the world to check if we are okay. Thanks to so many of your thoughtful concern.
Stillness
We have been still, (other than the earthquake) like everyone globally, since the end of March. In one place, for three months. But the odd thing about life in Zipolite, is that this beach town is still Covid free.
Because there have so far been no cases of Covid in our village, life has gone on in ways that are unusual compared to almost everywhere else in the world we read or hear about. The only time people wear masks here is when anyone ventures out to any of the nearby towns by taxi as there are road checks along the way which require mask wearing and hand sanitizing. Other than that, most people have and continue to congregate on the beach and at the few cafes that are still open.
Our lives are framed around going to the beach almost every morning and every sunset, although Ben’s work has exploded exponentially and while he was busy before, he is now working around the clock, often taking calls that start at nine pm which go on for hours.
In the meantime, I am studying Spanish, doing research for our hoped for future exploration of Mexico, writing, drawing, reading and if I may say so, dominating in the kitchen. It has been great having a high quality juicer and a real oven, for the first time in years. The benefits of staying in one place! Ben says he will remember Zipolite for the nude beach, the fabulous cast of interesting characters, and my cooking up a storm.
Art, Dance, Yoga
We learn that there is a group of local artists who started a figure drawing workshop once a week. Anyone can join. No charge, just bring materials and show up! Excited to have an opportunity for live sketching. When it is in an outdoor location, I go and Ben even manages to join once in between work calls. It has been years since I went to a figure drawing session. The models are volunteers or sometimes the artists themselves who take turns modelling.
One of the really nice features of living in Zipolite is the fact that foreigners and locals are pretty well integrated ~ certainly more than most places we have lived in.
Living in a place that has a vibrant creative community is definitely a key attribute for us. Usually, not only is it hard to find a group of artists in many of the places we have lived, but certainly even harder to find people willing to pose nude. No problem here.
Our neighbours invite us to a party to celebrate a birthday, at their new performance art space which they are in the process of building. The party kicks off with an art session with a nude model for those that are interested in participating. Now that’s an unusual ice breaker at a party.
Seeing as the party is on an open air platform, we stop by. Ben has a work call, doesn’t love the whole lack of social distancing aspect and so he leaves early. I stay and dance on the periphery of the group, until it starts to get crowded and social distancing is no longer feasible.
The next morning, we hear that 200 people had shown up to the party! The first large community gathering since Covid restrictions have been in place and many took the opportunity to get out and party, both locals and foreigners.
We are eager to see what the results of this party might be, in terms of Covid. Will people now start getting sick? Will the virus spread like wildfire through our community, even though we perceive ourselves as safe due to no cases and no incomers. We wait… three weeks. Nothing. Not even ONE case.
The efforts by the community to field volunteers at the barrier on the way in and out of Zipolite, appear to have paid off! Absolutely no one new has been allowed into the Zipolite community since a week after we arrived (March 18th). The protective “bubble” has not yet burst.
When we get the next invite for another party, we feel more relaxed about being there and participating due to the fact that no one got sick after the last one.
It is a perfect setting at the beach, fresh air, feet in the sand, good vibes and our little “Covid free community” is rocking out some tunes.
This region of Oaxaca, a region famed for its extensive indigenous tribal diversity is also known for its growth of psychedelic mushrooms, an ancestral traditional medicine. This would be a perfect time and place to partake, should one be so inclined. Before the dancing gets going, we are all invited to a cacao ceremony.
Cacao ceremonies are an ancient Mayan tradition of the Mayan culture which cultivated cacao 2500 years ago. It was called ka-kau ~ ku in Mayan language means “sacred” and ku-ku or Ka Kau means “above sacred”. It is easy to do the lineage between yesterdays Mayan spiritual useage of ku ku and todays rediscovery of its descendant cacao’s medicinal virtues. For the Mayan this raw cacao drink was ‘the drink of the gods” and in fact was only consumed by the emperor and nobility.
For a fascinating history of Mayan Ancestral uses of cacao: https://www.cacaomama.com/history-spirit/
According to Mayan elders and archaeologists, Spirit of Cacao is one of the most powerful deities in Mayan cosmology.
Ku Kau was an intrinsic part of ancient Mayan and then Astec life, not just as a beverage, food or medicine, but as a pillar of their economies and an integral part of their religions, appearing in numerous ceremonies.
There is a whole “economics” dimension of cacao that is fascinating, the short version of which is this: Cacao seeds were recognized as SO critical, that the Mayan made cacao seeds a currency. The seeds would change hands over a period of 3 years, after which it would be ground into the cacao drink of the gods. The Mayan therefore introduced, with this valuable cacao seed as currency, an intriguing concept of a currency that has a shelf life, one that therefore cannot be hoarded, but rather constantly traded, thereby contributing to a healthy economic ecosystem.
Ultimately, the value of the cacao seed was its unique power, allowing the elite to have clarity of mind and energy the entire day without a meal. Cacao is nutrient dense, it is high in anti-oxidants as well as magnesium, potassium and iron and also has an alkaline content. Drink of the gods indeed!
We realize how strange this party must seem to most people during these Covid times. Because the town has been sealed for months to outsiders, this group of people have all been here before Covid arrived in Mexico. We feel extremely grateful and lucky to share this rare moment in time, with a group of global and local, interesting, liberal, LGBT vibrant, creative, Covid free people. We are very aware that this Covid free environment is not a permanent thing and will change soon enough as visitors become allowed in. (P.S. It has been almost three weeks since this second party. No Covid cases in Zipolite.)
There has been one lifestyle element missing in Zipolite: yoga classes. We do our own yoga practice almost daily, but never as long as in a class.
At the party, I hear that there is a master Kundalini teacher, Martin, living here and so I seek him out, only to find out that he lives a few minutes away from us. Since we arrived here all the yoga studios have been closed, not directly because of Covid but rather due to the flow of tourists which has disappeared.
Martin tells me he only does online classes for 2,000 people! Yet, a few hours later, I get an invite to his first non retreat class offered here, and off we go to start our Kundalini journey. Turns out, he has a philosophy of “just say yes”, so all that was needed to get started, was for me to ask.
Movies under the stars
When we first arrived here we heard about a small outdoor cinemateque. Initially, we avoided going there, for social distancing reasons and our assumption that everyone would be packed in close quarters. But almost every week we hear about the latest fabulous movie shown al fresco ~ from classics to obscure Japanese films, to European and Canadian gems.
We rationalize that it’s the same community that goes to the parties, the same community that has been in the protective bubble. It’s time to go to the movies…
The Firefly cinema is a work of passion by a French movie buff who has accumulated over 5,000 high quality movies.
The whole experience is a delight from start to finish for movie lovers like ourselves. On a Saturday night there are just five of us spread out on a collection of random outdoor furniture under a partial cover, popcorn in hand, ready for a big screen movie experience al fresco, reminiscent of drive in movie days, and all for a dollar. Movies play three nights a week, and to Ben’s kharmic advantage, Monday is “French movie night”.
Esco
Esco, our foster dog has adjusted very well to life here with us in Zipolite.
Esco has become a veritable beach bum and is eager to get there in the mornings and at sundown. The rest of the time he sleeps and sleeps. No doubt due to the heat during the day but probably because his body is still recovering from the trauma of the amputation. He has picked a few fights with other dogs, but nothing serious, squabbles here and there, much as is normal with all dogs…
Now that we have a chance to understand his personality better and he has settled down, we are starting to look for a forever home for him. We are in no rush to find him a home, when the timing is right, the right loving home will manifest itself.
About the dogs in Zipolite ~ ALL the stray dogs which hang out at the beach are taken care of by the community. Not one emaciated, malnourished dog in sight thankfully, contrary to the often heartbreaking sights of stray dogs on the beach in Nicaragua and other places we have lived.
Covid or not; Earthquake or not; Tsunami or not ~ We love our current home base of Zipolite.
The Bubble Will Burst
On July 1st, our bubble will burst.
The local business association has lobbied hard for businesses to reopen in July as so many are facing an existential crisis. The barriers which blocked access in and out of town since March, will be removed on July 1st.
There may be a trickle, or there may be hordes, we have no idea. As we understand it right now, the hotels will be allowed to fill up 30% of their rooms starting from July. But those who hail from COVID lands will no doubt arrive and change the dynamics of our hermetic community.
City dwellers from Mexico City and Oaxaca City will be looking for a beach escape from their “Quedate en casa ~ stay at home” orders. Their benefit, our loss.
And then, more than likely, there will be cases and the authorities will shut things down again. An avoidable self inflicted wound. Let’s see how this all plays out in Zipo.
Skyscapes of Zipolite
Our “backyard” i.e. the beach, offers us endless opportunities for sky watching at different times of the day and evening. Now that we are entering the rainy season we have had many dramatic cloud formations.
I was about to say you are so lucky. What with all the parties, art classes, cinema outings, I’d already forgotten about the earthquake part at the beginning! Yes, I am a goldfish. It does look blissful though. Keep enjoying.
Tracey we feel VERY lucky to be here and to be in such a unique environment, particularly at this time.
The earthquake was very scary, but fortunately it did not have a big toll on either the population or the infrastructure.
Peta
Stock up on hand soap and make some masks- you guys got this. Congratulations on showing us yet another alternative way. You never know what happens next but what a great choice you made in March. Love the cloud photos.
“Make some masks” ~ prophetic words indeed. We are on it!! We have plenty of handmade beautiful soaps and will continue to do our own version of careful.
“You never know what happens next” ~ain’t that the truth.
Sharon, thank you for encapsulating our Mexico chapter of our Green Global Trek as “another alternative way”.
Very happy with the choice we made under pressure.
P&B
xoxo
What a year it has been for you guys! Hopefully the second half will be a little calmer (in all ways). We’ve experienced a few tremors here in Vancouver and they were scary. Glad you’re OK and finding ways to enjoy yourselves during these crazy times. We read frightening COVID stories about Mexico so it’s reassuring to hear that Zipolite has been COVID free. I hope that visitors and businesses act responsibly with the re-opening. Big hugs to both of you.
Caroline, it is true that we have had a brochette of events from Sri Lanka to Viet Nam to Mexico.. but now with CoVID as a global event, we feel very fortunate to be here and for the way we have played this game of life so far.
We are still having tremors, but i have decided to breathe calmly through those as it really is only the big ones that incite fear in me.
So far only a trickle of new people at the beach, but time will tell.
Thanks for your comments.
Hugs to you both as well. xoxo
Peta
Good to hear from you. I am impressed and happy for you that your landlord came to check on you and told you about the hill in case of tsunami. I certainly hope that doesn’t happen. Pretty sure I would have been scared. Such a rich, full post. I hope your area stays safe from COVID-19, it must be pretty unusual.
Blessings to you both and Esco! Michele
Michelle, that’s the feedback we love to get… “such a rich, full post”. Even though not much is happening, at the same time, a lot is going on and we are enjoying participating in the figure drawing, movies etc, which add a whole new dimension.
For now no more threat of tsunami, that is usually just for the first few hours after a big earthquake, thankfully.
Blessings to you too.
Peta
A gripping earthquake tale. Am so relieved that neither of you was harmed in any way. Thank goodness it didn’t have the results experienced in Haiti, although sad to think of those five lives lost in Huatulco (we anchored near there on our way up to La Paz)
I am so glad that your daily lives in protective Zipolite remain COVID free, but I am sorry to hear that the bubble burst today.
Delighted to hear that Ben has so much opportunity, but wish he didn’t have to work round the clock. Fantastic that you are expanding your mind and body in so many ways, Peta. But of course.
Your drawings are magnificent, and the cacao ceremony and history were fascinating.
Stay safe.
Lisa thank you for such a chockfull and thoughtful response.
We are glad to see that so far, rather than the pop of a bubble bursting, it feels like a slow hiss of air coming out of a tire. Hopefully it stays that way.
Thanks for the compliments on my drawings. I felt quite rusty at first, but after a few sessions it’s feeling more comfortable once again. It has been quite the treat to have willing nude models. Glad you found the cacao ceremony and the history so interesting, we did too. We are still at the beginning of the learning curve for all things Mexico and we recognize how much there is to learn!
xoxo
Peta
How wonderful your community and town seem. I would love to be living somewhere away from the constant fear and news about covid. Plus, Zipolite looks like a beautiful beach town. Maybe a visit would be in order. I’ve long wanted to retire somewhere near a beach and maybe out of the US, but I’m intimidated by the idea too.
Hi Brad,
Welcome to our Green Global Trek, it is nice to read you.
The intimidation is understandable. Happy to help you think through your options for a life style change. If you want to discuss further feel free to email me, as we do offer consulting for those interested in relocating, or retiring in a different country.
petakaplanhotmail.com
Peta
Although I knew you two were ok after the earthquake, I am so happy to get this in depth update! I’m sorry they are opening your little Shangri-La up to outsiders. I understand that business need income, but magical thinking is not a great strategy.
Your drawings are lovely… how nice that you were able to hook up with a creative group. And, almost personal yoga sessions… how great is that! So nice that Zipolite is working out well for you.
Janis, thanks for your concern after the earthquake and for checking up on us. Scary it was, but all is well. Businesses here are hurting just as they are everywhere globally. So far it seems there is just a trickle of people coming in and there are still others that are cancelling their accommodations.
Thanks for the compliment on my drawings. It is great to be amongst others with the same interest. The yoga has been great to finally be back in a class setting and doing something different as kundalini is mostly new to us.
Peta
Wow, 2020 just doesn’t let up, does it? What a year. I’m glad you got through the earthquake relatively unscathed and the tsunami never materialized. Scary stuff, indeed.
What a cool town for you all to have landed, and what a benefit to be in this safe community full of welcoming and interesting individuals with whom you could socialize. We miss that aspect of our lives quite a bit, so I am more than a little envious. We’re going on month number 5 of not talking to anyone but each other, 24/7. Thankfully, we enjoy each other’s company, and technology has allowed us to stay in touch with others, but man, I miss in-person socializing!!
Here’s to a drama free second half of 2020 (one can hope, anyway!). Stay well!!
Laura, it has been a rough year for most and we feel pretty thankful to have surfed through things so far and stayed healthy and safe. The earthquake was scary, yes. And the tsunami threat as well… These big out of control life events, climate change which brings flooding, drought, extreme heat, fires, pandemics etc is sadly the new reality for us all.
Five months of not talking to anyone else all day every day, sounds like Sci Fi material. Wow, that does not sound easy at all. We don’t think of ourselves as generally being particularly social and yet, we have really enjoyed our interactions and contact with our community here.
Yep, I hear you. Lets hope things improve globally for everyone, but realistically it ain’t looking to good CoVID wise. The second half of the year will be punctuated by the U.S. election, which is an event, that no matter where we all live, will no doubt send shock waves and ensure a lot of drama between now and then.
Stay safe
Peta
First the earthquake then the scare of a tsunami…..It’s enough for a mother to get a heart attack!
But you are smart and thoughtful and called me to reassure me before I even heard about it…Thank you for that💋
Peta your nude drawing is just gorgeous…You sure haven’t lost your technic…Your social life is already quite interesting and adding the beach parties and the yoga teacher to it I can see why you enjoy living there.
Please stay extra safe now that they are reopening the city…..
I love you both💓💓💓💓
Madame Bell, such a honor to have you grace our blog with your comments…:) So good to read you here.
Yes we do our best to not shock our mothers TOO much. Then again, the news out of the U.S. gets more and more shocking and we are so thankful to not be in the midst of all the craziness.
It’s fun to be drawing nudes again, a little challenging with limited materials, but hey, we make do with what we have.
Love you too
xoxoxo
With today being July 1st I wonder if you saw any immediate change in your paradise. It is wonderful that you have had these months of practically quarantine.
As to the earthquake, I was very grateful to have a quick reply to my Instagram message that you were safe. I can only imagine how frightening the experience would be. Your landlord sounds wonderful to arrive so quickly and show you to high ground.
Sending best wishes to you both.
Sue
Sue, yes we have noticed newcomers on the beach.. so far just a trickle of people. The restaurants that are open are no doubt pleased to have some more business. Us “longtimers” do give them occasional glares as they come unmasked and threatening of our little bubble haha. We will grudgingly accept the new reality.
Thanks Sue for checking up on us. So thoughtful of you. It was a very uncomfortable and weird feeling to have one’s house shake like a tiny toy. But I guess we are all just flecks of sand in the bigger picture of the universe after all.
Our landlord is the best landlord we have every had. Nicest person and very helpful in every way. And he makes a hellova carrot cake which he generously shares with us.
Best to you both too
Peta
So happy to hear that you are all okay.
Sending positive thoughts for a smooth reopening.
Thank you so much. So far so good.
Peta
Ahh loved reading this! Thank you! While I love Hoi An, I also love Oaxaca…. I think I will live there someday. Disfruten!
Meg Le, so good to hear from you. We love living here, but we also miss Hoi An as we loved living there so much. We could have done with more time there, as we had such a great set up which including finally a kick ass pilates teacher 🙂 but such is life…..
Hope you get here sooner than later ~ looking forward to pilates in Zipo.
Peta
Phew, I wonder what else 2020 will bring to you. Thank goodness the earthquake didn’t do more damage.
We feel extremely fortunate in so many different ways. Thank you for your concern.
Peta
I was so pleased to see this post as I have been thinking about you folks. It seems life has landed you in the best possible place to be at this time, in spite of earthquakes and potential tsunamis! It was good to hear that your community has been virus-free as has ours been. WE too are concerned about letting the tourists and vacationers in but the economy has taken a huge hit. Mask wearing is the law and there are heavy fines for those who don’t adhere to it. The beaches are all marked off to keep everyone at the right distance. And, get this, the government has hired students to monitor the beaches! So jobs and safety addressed. We too feel we are in the right place. So glad to see Enzo is doing well. Dot sleeps a lot in the summer too. Right now she is on our bed sleeping under the ceiling fan. The life of a dog!! Sending hugs. Stay safe and happy!
Thanks Darlene. What a clever idea to pay students to monitor beaches. What a win win situation. Here there is no monitoring on beaches whatsoever. Around Easter there were police/military patrols, but they were short lived and mostly ignored by people ~ as soon as they moved down the beach everyone came right back.
Good to hear from you and glad you are doing well.
Peta
What a beautiful post about your life in Zipolite. Full of drama and also many feel-good moments. A unique, wonderful community. Sounds like you are part of something very special yet ephemeral. A real-life Brigadoon. I hope this place continues to be a great home for you both, even after opening up to the “real world” again.
Deb
Thanks Deb. Hopefully the earthquake drama is behind us. Overall we feel very fortunate and pleased to have landed here. Very special place. And of course, everything, all life is ephemeral.
Stay safe and enjoy your new home.
Peta
Oh the rough and the smooth! Thank you for this window on your life in Oaxaca, like so many outside your ‘bubble’ I had been wondering how you were faring. Not bad at all, evidently. Your instincts to stay put there for the duration were right on, if not entirely earthquake-proof. You both look happy, though. Hope the COVID stays at bay for you. And if down the road it’s possible for the rest of us to start converging on Oaxaca, well I might be among the first to arrive. Stay safe, and happy.
Ah Johnny, that is very well put “the rough and the smooth”… Yes that really does sum things up pretty well. We ARE happy. As you know, we make it work, where ever we are. However, here has been pretty smooth sailing, other than the earthquake.
I’m sure you would enjoy the lifestyle here. How are you faring in Puerto Rico these days?
Big hugs
Peta
Well, Brook and Jaia are here in PR right now & for a few weeks. Need I say more?
So great.. Enjoy enjoy.
Ah… earthquakes. We lived in northern California for 33+ years. I never got used to them. The 1989 Loma Prieta quake was an experience I’ll never forget.
You are living in a completely different world than life here in the US. Undoubtedly we will continue to self-isolate for the rest of this year. I’ve never been quite so grateful that we are both retired, it’s allowed us to adapt to a new normal and (knock on wood) stay healthy.
I envy your beach mornings.
Thanks Patti. Well, no place is perfect. One always has to accept the pros with the cons. Hopefully that earthquake will be the quota of earthquakes for at least this year. Now I know more what to expect and have confirmed what to do, it feels a bit less overwhelming.
Yes, we know that our world is very different right now than the reality for so many. We do feel blessed.
The beach has been an absolute gift, especially in these Covid times. One really does not need much else in the way of activities, if there is access to fresh air, the ocean and nature. So everything else we have discovered, has been extra frosting on the top.
Glad to read that retirement has been a positive contributor to the new life style. It makes sense. Good timing for sure.
Peta
Peta.
As always, I enjoy being with you, if even for a short while, living a life I can only imagine. I’ve lived through earthquakes for sure (living in the SF Bay area for 20 years) but only through one 7.something quake. I held my breath as I read about yours (even knowing you were safe from the Instagram comments). But the fear is real. The miracle is real, too, that the community was spared from any injury to people or buildings. Covid is another real threat, and I fear for you all now that the barriers are coming down. Peace and blessings (and lots of good yoga) for the future days ahead. (Your photos are tremendous.)
Thanks Pam for visiting with us via our blog. I experienced quite a few earthquakes in Nicaragua when we lived there, but nothing like this one! So close and so strong. Whew. It really is a miracle that so few people died from the quake and so little physical damage. Some say it’s due to the fact that we are coastal and that the sand somehow absorbs some of the shock. Also, of course urban areas are just that much more densely populated.
Thanks for the blessings and really nice good wishes. Stay safe and healthy as well.
Peta
Well, that’s another good reason to live on/near the coast! Hope no more shakin’ goes on in your future.
So good to hear that you are quaking and shaking safely. Hopefully, with the opening of business your end of the world remains healthy and happy.
My husband and I have been in total isolation since March 1st. We are ready for many more months of voluntary lockdown since I have 3 underlying conditions plus age and I don’t want to selfishly take up an ICU bed. It’s been fine and I know with both of your resiliency you too will be fine.
Sending love, judy
Thanks for the love Judy… We are hoping that things stay under control, although Mexico as a country right now is not faring so well. Numbers are through the roof particularly in Mexico City.
Wow, that is a LONG time to be in total isolation. Do you get your groceries delivered? Do you get into nature at all, or is that not possible? That is very thoughtful of you. Stay safe and healthy. Sending you some fresh sea air and ocean ions.
xoxox
Good to have an update, and glad you are both ok after the fright!
Thanks so much Anabel. All good here.
P
I’m so glad to hear that your area was spared any real damage from the earthquake! And that you have been able to live in a covid-free bubble for so long. I’m sorry that is changing now, but if you wear masks and social distance, you should be okay. It sounds as if you have found the perfect place to live and I love reading about it. Take care!!
Thanks Ann,
Yes, we fully intend to social distance and wear masks just like we did when we first arrived here, not knowing what our environment would be. Of course social distancing is very easy to do at the beach here, as it is not crowded at all, for now.
So far just a trickle of new people coming in. Time will tell.
Glad you are enjoying our posts.
Peta
I have to say, you guys are leading a charmed life! And I’m glad 🙂 🙂
Well thank you Johanna. I must say we are pretty pleased with how we have chosen to sculpt our life trajectory and how things have panned out so far. Super grateful.
Peta
I’m happy to hear from you and to get an update on how you’re faring. That earthquake sounded scary, indeed. I’ve only experienced one earthquake (a 6.7 in southern California) but I remember it as deeply unsettling to feel the earth shifting beneath me. And here we all are now, in this very surreal time, with earthquakes in all realms—spiritual, emotional, and physical.
I’m so glad you are safe, and that you’ve landed in such a beautiful place that nourishes you in so many ways. Yoga and dancing and art and movies under the stars! How fun. 🙂 What a gift to have been in a COVID-free bubble for the past three months! I hope that it remains a peaceful and safe haven for you. Sending hugs to you both from our safe haven in Florida, where we’re ‘sweltering in place,’ LOL.
Laurel, yes… it is deeply unsettling to feel the earth move like that and the house shake as though it was a cheap toy Wow. Crazy stuff.
“Earthquakes in all realms” ~ that’s a great synopsis for what’s going down right now.
We were happy before we found the yoga, dancing, art, and movies.. but these additional activities have definitely contributed to enriching our lives in this period. It truly has been a gift to be here during CoVID and we hope too that it remains this way…
So far so good.
Glad to hear you are both safe. Yup, it’s pretty hot here too. Thank goodness for ceiling fans…
Big hugs
Peta
It’s very good to hear from you and especially to know that you’re safe and healthy in Zipolite. Doesn’t surprise me that you’ve made friends with people and critters, found a yoga studio and an art studio, and are making the best of the Covid situation. Earthquakes have no respect for our human concerns – glad you survived. May it be the first of the first – but I bet it won’t be.
By now we have learned that every place we have lived has its pros and cons. Our latest discoveries during Covid times namely the yoga and the art have definitely been surprising for us… Yes on the downside Mexico is earthquake country, but then again, no place is completely safe from natural disasters which as you rightly say have “no respect for our human concerns”.
How are you faring on your side of the world?
Peta
Well apart from the earthquake, which got your attention! it sounds as if life in Zipolite has been pretty darn wonderful. Parties, movies, yoga, the beach, cooking. It sounds perfect. Long may it continue.
Fingers crossed for you that opening to non-residents will not bring the dreaded large groups to town.
Stay safe. Stay well.
Alison, yes, life in Zipolite has been an absolute treat for us. In normal times it would be good here, I am quite sure, but in Covid times it has been exceptional. We heard today that the opening to outsiders is going to be delayed till mid month. The longer the delay the better. As well, all Mexican airports are doing finger blood tests and taking temperatures before anyone can board a plane.
Stay safe. Hoping things are going ok in Vancouver?
Peta
Peta, I love your drawings. Very brave of people to pose in their birthday suits.
Sounds like you have found a place that is very suited to your artistic talents. I hope coronavirus will stay away from your little paradise. Loving the photo of you in blue against the orange wall, so beautiful. So glad Ben has plenty of work and that Esco is a happy dog now 😄
Thanks Gilda, It’s nice to know my drawings resonate with you 🙂
Given that Zipolite is a clothes optional beach, people here tend to be pretty comfortable with their nudity. That said, one has to be able to hold a pose and be comfortable with many eyes on you at the same time. One of our friends here who wanted to have the experience of being a model, said it was the most narcissistic and at the same time empowering experience.
That photo against the bright orange wall is one of my favorites too. It really captures the colors and the casual lifestye here. I was taking a basket of food to our neighbor who had a bad accident and had just returned from hospital. Fortunately he is doing well and recovering.
Esco is definitely one happy pup;
Peta
What an interesting and entertaining post about your lifestyle! So different to many others at the moment given the state of the world. You really sound like it’s a joy to be there and I can understand why – oh except for the earthquake and possible tsunami!
Debbie even in paradise there are hazards and threats which are outside of our control. That said, life here is definitely interesting and it has been fun discovering all these additional activities to enrich the days.
Peta
You really have been in a unique bubble of safety, and as usual, you have assembled a life of friends, culture, animal care, personal pursuits, etc. that is impressive indeed.
I’m so happy you found this perfect little spot to escape to! Now I hope the reopening is more of a trickle than a flood and that all precautions are taken to keep your new little community as safe as possible.
Thanks Lex, we appreciate the “as usual” reference and observation. Initially every day here was like ground-hog day. A good ground-hog but definitely every day the same. And then, something seemed to shift and we started discovering all sorts of things….. I
So far the opening has been a trickle of people, from Oaxaca City and Mexico city. Definitely noticeable difference but not bothersome yet and we are still easily able to social distance on the beach and elsewhere. So far so good.
How are you guys faring in your part of the world?? Hope you are both safe and healthy.
xoxo
P
lovely to hear of all the goings on… kundalini, yoga, art classes, Esco settling in well … though the earthquake, which we heard on the news was worrying; we heard that there were no injuries. Thank you for sharing your unique and blissful way of life. The photographs are lovely. May visitors NOT bring covid into your lives. Have a wonderful weekend 🙂
Nice to hear from you Susan…. It has been such a treat to have so a rich bouquet of activities that we both enjoy. The earthquake was definitely unsettling and we continue to hear local’s stories of the last one which had disastrous impact on so many.
Thanks for the compliments on the photos.
So far so good…. The fact that the airports here are taking temperatures before people board planes, is positive news. How are things panning out in South Africa? I have been reading a lot of very scary stuff. Can you update us por favor?
Stay safe
Peta
Enzo, not Esco … here in SA we’re approaching the peak re covid. Still below 3000 deaths country wide. The hotspots are not surprising, the W. Cape was the epi centre, now Gauteng (Jhbg Pretoria and surrounds) has overtaken. The corruption continues and we hope the justice dept is not captured. I think we’re robust enough. Leadership is lacking, the head of police is a brute. The woman in charge of the Nat Command Centre is ….. Oh I have no words. Ex wife of Zuma, we fear wanting to get current pres OUT as do many of her minions. I suspect a battle and faction fighting between the Xhosa and Zulu. Much is opening up, a real concern that there may be a second wave. In Plettenberg Bay where I am, people are mostly mask wearing. Shops and stores insist on it within their walls as well as hand sanitising. We keep to the rules and are extra vigilant. Plett seems ok thanks be 🙂
Your bubble sounds and looks really nice, Peta and Ben. Almost like a fairytale – I’m glad you managed to enjoy it as long as it lasted.
We’ve felt like that a couple of times as well, last month. It would make total sense to have thousands of these bubbles all around the world, so people could pick up their normal life again. Or, decide to join a bubble after quarantining first. Of course, this is not feasible in big cities or in tourist destination.
I understand why the hotels and restaurants (and yoga teachers) want their customers back. If only a quarantine period of a few days would be enough (and therefore required) instead of two weeks – which is what authorities request from visiting boats in the Caribbean.
It strikes me what a multicultural, artistic, and fun place Zipolite is! If we would be closer right now, we might be one of those first tourists to check out your beach town. Happy to read the stray dogs are well taken care of.
I just told Mark about your most recent experiences and he looked at our photos from back in 2005 when we visited the Oaxaca coast, as the town sounded familiar to him. But, I don’t think we ever stopped in Zipolite. I remember Huatulco and a turtle hatchery, but that’s it. We took way less photos back then too, as Mark was wielding the camera. I had no money to buy a digital camera. 🙂
So far so good. Holding steady. Definitely more of a slow fizz than a pop. Definitely noticing new people on the beach, but the numbers are very moderate and it is still as easy to keep a decent distance.
Zipolite actually apparently does get very crowded during the usual busy times like over the holidays of Christmas and New Year and Easter etc. Many of the old timers here have told us how lucky we are to be experiencing it so quiet as it has been for the past few months. Hoping for a continuous trickle of people.
All the airports in Mexico are apparently checking body temps before people board and as well taking some kind of blood test using an instant finger prick. These are all good signs.
There IS a turtle hatchery just ten minutes North of here at the other small hippyish artistic beach town of Mazunte. That is where we thought we would be living, but here we are in Zipolite. I hope you do get to come on down South some time and visit us here.
xoxo
Peta
Mazunte! That was it. We did stop there briefly way back when. Hope to return one day and come say “hi”. 🙂
Yup Mazunte is just ten minutes further North from us and we go there occasionally for the health food store, a really good vegetarian restaurant that has stayed open and a somewhat calmer swim than here in Zipolite where the surf is really rough for the most part.
See you in Mazunte.
What’s amazing is that over the years you guys have always succeeded in finding the most interesting and quaint places to call home.
I’m impressed.
Thanks Sophie. We are pretty happy with ourselves too. At the end of the day, it’s a pretty straightforward formula: Local cost of living, good climate, high ethnic-cultural content, good food and access to nature. Yoga and art additional points. That’s our formula, and it has worked so far as you say in many different places.
Bisous
P&B
Peta and Ben
Looks like you have found a group of like minded westerners in Zipolite.
. Keep juicing and cooking it is the only guarantee in fighting off the virus. Good food sunshine the ocean , yoga and laughter should keep you guys safe and healthy. Glad to see in such odd and scary times you both have found an oasis in Oaxaca .
As the US virus numbers keep increasing it is best to stay away .. good you are already there as borders around the world are beginning to close to Americans. It is truly unbelievable the lack of leadership and common sense we witness everyday here. Ugh
Hopefully the rumblings of the earth stays quiet and the virus stays away from your utopia. Lay low and be well. Barrie
Nice to read you Barrtie, thanks for your comments. Doing our best to live our lives to the full and stay healthy and safe. So far so good.
We were hoping to visit the family some time soon but things are looking rather discouraging. Doesn’t make sense for us to leave utopia and head into the frying pan. We agree. Also, we might then not be allowed to come back in to Mexico. Makes sense for borders to keep Americans out. Just as it made sense to keep Korea and Italy out when their numbers were high… but of course the U.S. numbers are ten times higher than they ever were in either of those countries. It’s shocking that any country WOULD accept anyone with a U.S. passport under the current reality.
How are things faring in Cleveland these days?
hugs
P&B
I thought about you guys when I heard about the earthquake in Oaxaca. I’m surprised, as big as it was, that you didn’t even have spilled shelves. My brother was near a 7.1 in southern California last year and had quite the mess to clean up.
It sounds like you found an ideal bubble to shelter in during this craziness. Hopefully, a reopening doesn’t disrupt that too badly.
Dave, we too were very surprised that nothing broke, nothing even fell of any of the shelves. Not a bottle, not a book. Especially once we found out it was a 7.4. Some say the reason is due to the sand at the coast which perhaps absorbs more shock than in a city. Who knows, but thankful for that.
So far so good.. just a trickle of newcomers. Enough to be noticeable and increase some tourism dollars but nothing to be alarmed about. Hopefully it continues in the same way.
Thanks for stopping by to read us and leave your thoughts.
Peta
Oy indeed! What a rock (and rollin’) pile of adventures you’ve had in that beachtown; not one of them anything you could have predicted. But you’ve managed to find the silver linings in every one of them, and so much more. I’m so glad you’ve found yourselves in that COVID-free cocoon, with so many artsy, funky classes and events to keep your creative juices flowing. Now that we’re well into July, I’m wondering if those barriers really did come down.. and if so, have there been any cases? Wishing you a continued safe, healthy and wondrous stay!
ps apropos earthquakes, we got some pretty seismic action here just yesterday morning 😉
Amit good to read you. I must tell you, it was a huge decision when we had to make one in hours of which country to go to with the borders closed to our home base in Viet Nam It was down to Bali versus Mexico and we opted for Mexico primarily due to the proximity to the US and family and being in the same time zone. But that was pretty close..
Wondering how things are being handled in Bali? How are you all faring?
Yes the barriers did come down on the first of July and so far just a trickle of people are coming in, on the weekends. No cases as of yet here, nor in the closest “real” town nearby which is Pochutle, half an hour away. They had two cases, but both have recovered.
Ah yes.. Indonesia is earthquake country too. Stay safe and healthy.
Thanks for stopping by and for sharing your thoughts with us.
Peta
From N:
So much is changing and moving all around us. Noise, traffic, air, virus. The only thing we can be confident is stable and steady is the earth beneath our feet. Until…
Well put. Exactly right. That was exactly the feeling.
Peta
So happy to hear you are safe, and that there have been no more scary incidents. I must say – if you could have choreographed a picturesque town, food, safety nets, and a group of diverse yet like minded people; I don’t think you could have done much better. Be safe and stay healthy! 💚
Nice to read you here Karen. Very true that although we knew we would like this area, based on reading about it and hearing descriptions we had no idea just how much we would resonate with it. And this is under Covid no less. So there are additional things still to discover like many of the good restaurants that we walk by and are hoping, that they will open soon given that the barriers are now lifted.
How are things on your side of the world? Do you still have the masks from Hoi An that I sent you? Pretty prescient huh? We are actually getting some artisanal ones made right here in Zipolite. If you or anyone you know would like some loom woven ethnic designed masks, these are pretty cool… we want to help the indigenous family of textile weavers to market these to a wider audience.
Stay safe and healthy too.
Peta
Stay safe and distant. When the tourists come….it’s not a good sign. Sorry, the Canada-U.S. border is closed to drivers.
In a recent poll, 80% of Canadians stiil want the border closed to keep out Americans because the U.S. is having problems controlling their covid numbers.
Hi Jean
Yes so far so good. Not difficult for us to keep a distance at the beach. We have a trickle of new comeres.
Well we have no plans as of now to be in the U.S. nor Canada. I wonder if perhaps this was a comment meant for someone else?
Makes sense for countries to keep their borders closed to the U.S. just as they did to Italians, Koreans etc when the numbers were high there.
Peta
Peta I love your charcoal sketches and that you are using what’s at hand to make them. What a privilege for you and Ben to end up in a safe COVID-free haven where you can continue to be part of an integrated diverse community.
Thank you.
Necessity is the mother of invention…. A good friend actually sent a box of art supplies to me from the States but unfortunately it never made it here. Oh well, I ALMOST had real charcoal.
It truly is a privilege to be in such a safe haven during these times and we are ever so grateful for it. And further more a community which is indeed diverse.
Peta
Peta and Ben, Thank goodness you are both safe. I have been in earthquakes before, although never a 7.4. ‘Shaking violently’ is not a good thing. And, yes, the possibility of a tsunami. I knew two ladies who were travelling in Christ Church, N.Z. when the large earthquake hit. A few years later, one of them was still suffering from PTSD.
It is interesting how even in your community people differ in their social distancing philosophy. Thank goodness about the protective bubble. We have had few cases on our Island, yet we know there are likely symptomatic people who are carriers of COVID-19. We are not being complacent.
Exceptionally stunning photos! A fascinating and captivating post. I truly hope the dynamics have not changed too much since July 1st. Thank you for sharing. I feel like I am reading a National Geographic story. Take care.
I had typed in asymptomatic …………autocorrect. 🙂
Erica, thank you that is high compliment indeed to put us in the same category as National Geographic. Glad you enjoyed the photos, I really had to sort through many stunning sky shots to down select to just a few.
Wondering if being on an island is one of the factors reducing the number of cases where you live, because few newcomers have entered? Beginning of July, the barriers here came down and we have had a slow trickle of newcomers. It is still easy to social distance but we do feel some “resentment” that there are people we don’t recognize entering our community bubble. Hahah.
Thanks for stopping by to read us and to leave your throughtful feedback.
Peta
Ben & Peta, I’m glad that all turned out well for you both in the recent earthquake. Coincidentally, Terri and I experienced our first earthquake in Puebla in mid-Feb 2018, and strangely, the epicenter was somewhere in coastal Oaxaca. And yet, it gave us a good shaking in our hotel in Puebla. Our analogy was we felt like “fleas on a shaking dog.” It came as a total surprise to me which is weird, because: 1. I’m a geologist who knows about this sort of thing, and 2. I knew we were in earthquake country. Not sure where my head was, but either way, it made believers out of us: prepare.
As for Covid, I hope your luck continues … but it’s scary that it just takes one asymptomatic person to wreck the party. Other than having our travel wings clipped, we are pretty much into the routine of masks, hand washing, and social distancing. Luckily, we don’t have any family or close friends that have been infected, so with some care and prep, we can socialize with a small circle. Also, the governor of our state (KY – Andy Beshear) has done an excellent job, unlike some of these jackasses that have politicized the process. I don’t want to wish ill will on anyone, but I wonder if Karma will eventually catch up with these clowns. In the meantime, you two seem to be living the dream and it’s a joy to read about. Take care of yourselves. ~James
James thank you for your in depth comments.
Love the visual of “fleas on a shaking dog” with regards the earthquake. Not surprised you felt the earthquake in Puebla even though the epicenter was here in Oaxaca, this is apparently very common. In fact, there have been many serious earthquakes with an epicenter in Oaxaca and they were all felt as far as Mexico City and Guatemala in some cases.
We are very conscious that things could change here, on a dime. As you say, it take just one asymptomatic person to infect a whole group. Hoping that we are able to continue the bubble of covid free luck.
Am detinitely in the camp of wanting karma to do it’s work with the current admiinistration.
Peta
James thank you for your in depth comments.
Love the visual of “fleas on a shaking dog” with regards the earthquake. Not surprised you felt the earthquake in Puebla even though the epicenter was here in Oaxaca, this is apparently very common. In fact, there have been many serious earthquakes with an epicenter in Oaxaca and they were all felt as far as Mexico City and Guatemala in some cases.
We are very conscious that things could change here, on a dime. As you say, it take just one asymptomatic person to infect a whole group. Hoping that we are able to continue the bubble of covid free luck.
Am detinitely in the camp of wanting karma to do its work with the current administration.
Peta
That has so far been quite an experience for the both of you in Zipolite. That earthquake sounded very strong and luckily no tsunami after that. I have felt a few earthquakes here in Australia with the building swaying slightly but nothing like what you described.
It is amazing to hear of the community over there, and hopefully still COVID-19-free. Everyone sounds so welcoming over there, inviting you to drawing class and parties. Sometimes living a simple life is what gets us through each day. Here in Melbourne in Australia, at the moment we are the complete opposite and have gone into lockdown again – and I guess it’s time to find more simplicity and peace indoors.
Amazing photos again. They are always something I look forward to when I visit your blog – they show everyday humble life as it is wherever you go. Take care.
Thanks for the compliment on the photos. Nice to hear you look forward to the visuals of our posts.
Yes we have been reading about Australia and the lock down ~ uff sounds so challenging but I guess this is where so many countries are heading.
Here fortunately we still have no cases of corona and it continues to be a bubble of safety ~ although there have been dengue cases in our area. Hoping to avoid that too.
Thanks for stopping by to read us and for leaving your feedback.
Peta
Peta and Ben, it must have been so scary during the earthquake and then worrying about a possible tsunami to follow. What a wonderful landlord to come and check on you and tell you about the concrete wall at the top of the hill. Living on the west coast of Canada most of my life, I have experienced some small tremors, but its statistically likely that a big one is going to come one of these days. Our area is also volcanically active, and there are many hot springs up the coast of B.C.
It was fascinating to read that your entire little community was a COVID-19 bubble. How fortunate for you as you settled in and became part of the community.
Wonderful sketches, Peta. I like life drawing classes too, but the opportunity to do them seems to not come up very often. For me, I find they force me to draw more quickly in a more relaxed way, because the model can only hold the pose for a limited time. Also, I really observe shapes and lines more acutely drawing from life. I especially like your female figure in brown because of the movement and flow of the lines.
I hope all is continuing to go well with the two of you.
Jude
Hi Jude
Thanks for the nice compliments on my sketches. I also really like the brown sketch and to your point, that one was done in two minutes. We have not the opportunity to be part of a figure drawing session in years. Usually we have to find a willing model and usually that is not particularly easy. Especially while we were living in Nicaragua, Sri Lanka and Viet Nam. So it has definitely been novel to be part of an artistic community. Of course the fact that where we live has the only legal nudist beach in Mexico, makes it more likely one would find models more easily.
We have been extremely fortunate and grateful to be in a Covid free community for four months. More on that in the upcoming blog.
Thanks for stopping by to read us and to leave your thoughts.
Peta