We get back from our trip to Chicago and we have just two more weeks in our beach town of Zipolite. Our house, which we’ve been renting for seven months, is no longer available to us (until May), as it is rented to Canadians who make the winter migration south to the sun and use this house each year.
This forces us to consider our options… find another house or take the opportunity to travel in country? Can we travel safely during CoVid? After much thought and discussion, we opt to explore a little of the state of Oaxaca and see where that leads us…
Before we can leave, there is much work to be done. A house that we have settled into and as usual have augmented for our creature comforts (especially with regard to the kitchen), has to be completely sorted through and packed up. What are we taking with us? The goal is always to travel as light as possible, thus we will need to put some boxes into storage in Zipolite, as we expect to return.
That said, this coming escapade is open ended. Perhaps it makes sense to bring our vitamix and juicer? How about our French press for emergency coffee? And so the negotiating begins between being minimalistic versus having those extras on hand, while nomadic.
Our plan is to head to Oaxaca City, the state capital and culinary center of Mexico and to be there for Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead). We can either fly there on a short one hour flight or drive there through the mountains, about a six hour drive. We have heard from friends that Oaxaca City is doing well in terms of taking CoVid seriously. Precautionary measures are taken everywhere and all of the public sites are closed so as to discourage tourism. Not good for the economy but positive in terms of keeping the pandemic at bay.
Then something happens which ultimately influences our trajectory.
Just before we leave for Chicago to visit family, we find a loving “forever home” for our foster dog Esco ~ ahh things are falling into place as per our initial plan, so that we can be carefree as we hit the road. Or so we think….
Esco however has other plans.
After a few days, he bolts from his new home over the hill about a mile away and manages to find his way back home to us. This all happens just days before our trip to Chicago. The thought of this three legged dog yearning to get back to us and finding his way up and over the hill, only to find a locked gate and have his new home pick him up and take him back again saddens us. And we realize, that he may do this again, many times over… (some research shows that the homing instinct in dogs is very strong and they can travel up to 100 miles and retain the desire to return to their prior master, up to ten years!) We know that eventually he will adjust. After much deliberation with the new owners, we decide to take Esco back and keep him. We are now his “forever home”. Having a dog was not part of our plans. And so we find ourselves wondering how we are going to return to being nomadic, but this time with a three-legged dog in tow.
The obvious solution is for us to get a car. A car will make it easier to travel with a dog, a car to be our closet on wheels, a car to minimize our exposure to CoVid. We have not owned a car since we left the U.S. over a decade ago when we moved to Nicaragua! And so the search begins for a second hand affordable and hopefully reliable vehicle just a week before we need to be out of the house.
Before…. 
After!
Right on cue (well, a bit late) the car is finally ready for travel the very day we need to leave the house. By departure day we have dwindled down to our new “bare minimum” and just need to pack up the car, and we are ready to go. No time for a test drive after the repairs.
We decide to divide the trip into two parts and stop halfway ~ high up in the clouds, in San Jose del Pacifico where we will spend a few days. Our friends Sharon & Aaron from Chicago, plan to meet us at the mountain resort where we intend to stay for a few days and they will join us on our adventures for the next few weeks.
Only 5 km out of our house, excited to be on the road, driving our own car, when k-chunk, the nauseating loud sound of something scraping along the road under the car!
Stop the car. Retrieve a long metal bar which is hanging from the underbelly of the car and hand it over to Peta to hold: “What the HELL IS this??” Fortunately we are in the nearby little industrious town of Pochutla, after which starts the steep drive up through the mountains. We should have no trouble finding a mechanic….
A field of orange flowers and misty forest greets us. Wow!
Esco, a bit unsettled at first by all the new sounds of the forest, is taking quite well to the mountain habitat. And he does look awfully good in a field of sunburnt yellow flowers.
(Thanks to Aaron for this photo.)
The indigenous practice of temazcal ~ an ancient sweat lodge is available on the property as well. Not as a communal space in this case, but a tiny little one, at most two person sauna. One needs to give the staff a 3 hour ahead notification so that the fire can be ready. Once the door closes behind you, it is pitch black apart from the fire. Jugs of water are poured above the embers which creates the steam which quickly fills the small space.
Being immersed in nature, fresh air, so much beauty and reconnecting with our friends – this has been a great start to our adventure!
Onward to Oaxaca City!
I had wondered about the car when I saw your repair stop on Instagram. Obviously a very smart pup that Esco. What dog would ever want to leave the two of you! Glad to hear that you were able to meet your friends and enjoy the beauty of the high mountains. Those lilies are extraordinary.
Sue it feels rather strange to have a car after a decade of not owning one. And even stranger that we have a dog travelling with us. When we lived in Nicaragua we had two dogs and of course we travelled in country with them, even on buses, but that feels like a lifetime ago!
So far Esco has been a stellar nomad and is adjusting very well to car rides and the changes of locations.
Seeing those lilies every day, many times a day in different light, made me exceptionally happy. An extraordinary place to be sure.
Peta
That is the most beautiful location Iâve ever been. Thank you for including us in your travels. And it only got better from here!
It really was incredibly beautiful and great start to our adventure with you both! So fun to travel together. Amazing how easy it has been doing this with you both! Look forward to more…
xoxo
P&B
What a start to the adventure! Good thing that bit fell off in town and not halfway up the mountain. The mountain scenery is gorgeous.
My sentiments precisely! I admit to feeling somewhat nervous as we continued on the drive and the road started to get steeper and steeper. My imagination ran a bit wild and I admit to huge relief upon arrival. My fears were actually confirmed when we arrived days later in the city of Oaxaca and the car needed further repairs.
The scenery was absolutely stunning. Just loved it!
Peta
I so admire your adventurous spirits and love for your pet that made you decide to buy a car with a questionable history so he wouldn’t feel your loss. I loved seeing the fields of calla lilies as they remind me of my Colombian sister-in-law. What an exciting new chapter in your lives – I can’t wait to hear where life will take you in the days ahead.
Steven and I had looked forward to exploring the Pilsen neighborhood of Chicago during our
much-anticipated trip to the Windy City over Thanksgiving after reading your last exciting post. However, we will have to postpone the trip to spend the holiday with family because of safety concerns about Covid-19. I hope your Thanksgiving is a fun one spent with your longtime friends.
All the best to you both,
Annie
Annie we are excited to discover more of Mexico. It felt strange that we have been living here for almost seven months and due to Covid had not seen anything of the country other than upon arrival in March (time in the mountains near Mexico City) and the beaches near our home in Zipolite on the coast.
I have never ever seen a WHOLE field of cala lilies! They are one of my favorite flowers, so this sight was very surprising visual gift!
Sorry to hear that you had to cancel your trip to Chicago, but hopefully it is one that is only postponed…. I was just saying to Ben that I am so grateful and thankful that we went to Chicago when we did, as we snuck that trip in just in time before the pandemic got more out of control.
Stay safe and healthy both of you!
Peta
Wishing you happy and safe travels. Funny how a dog changes almost everything.
Thanks Peggy. Esco is quite the road tripper and has adjusted very well to nomadic life, pleased to say. We are enjoying having him with us as it forces us to walk a lot more as he needs to get his “yaya”s out. It has also been great having a car given the pandemic.
Peta
I held my breath when Esco took it upon himself to return to you.
My heart leapt with delight when you both went (well) out of your way to keep him.
Bravo to all three of you. Wishing you fabulous adventures ahead!
Donna the whole process of fostering a dog is one that is not for the faint of heart. The attachment works both ways. Ben was really looking forward to being “dog free” as of course life with a dog complicates things. But that said, he is adjusting really well to nomadic life and he gets a lot of attention wherever we go, due to no doubt his tripod status!
Thank you.
Peta
I enjoyed this post more than any other thus far. I so admire the adventurous spirit of you and Ben. Nothing seems to faze you in pursuing your love of travel and various cultures.
I was most impressed by the field of blooming calla lilies which are expensive when obtained from a nursery or florist. And last but not least, I was heartened to read that you decided to keep your dog because after he chose you as their protector and master. He looks to be Rottweiler and German Shepherd and perhaps something else in the mix. But those two breeds are very loyal and I loved seeing the pics of him with Ben. He looks to be quite happy and content to be on the journey
Thanks Yvonne. We are pretty excited to discover more of the culture of Mexico as we have only just scratched the surface and there is SO much to discover and to learn. It is not just a physical adventure but an intellectual one as well and is giving us a deeper appreciation of being here.
With regard to “nothing seems to faze you”, I think it is so core to who both of us are to want to travel and discover and understand cultures that we take the hurdles along the way in stride as much as we can, as of course “shit happens”. We both have the ability to stay fairly calm and deal with stuff as it comes up. The effort made to travel always pays off in the benefits.
We don’t really know what kind of dog Esco is. He is primarily sweet, funny and can be quite obstinate. He is also a glutton for affection, especially from strangers as he no doubt learnt how to ingratiate himself to people during his years as a street dog, as he knows it brings treats. He is doing really well so far and adjusting to new things and a different life.
Peta
I admit I’m glad that Esco is now a permanent part of your family! He’s clearly a dog who knows what he wants, and it’s best just to get in line with his plans, I think. Thank you for the updates on your adventure in Mexico! I love hearing how things are working out and the photos are just fabulous!
Hahaha Ann, you really hit the nail on the head and made us both laugh out loud. Yup, we finally are adjusting our lives to HIS plans!
Glad you enjoyed the photos.
Peta & Ben
“the photos are just fabulous!” … as usual!
There’s nothing you two can’t deal with, is there? đ đ I thoroughly enjoyed this post, though I did have to snuggle deeper in my dressing gown to keep warm those early mornings. Beautiful!
Well, Joanne, you did see that fireplace in the photo right? We were pretty happy with that until our room became smoke filled due to a chimney that clearly was blocked. We literally got smoked out the first night and had to open the doors to the freezing cold. Especially for us beach warm loving types it was a bit brutal! The blankets were thick and warm but not really wide enough for the bed, so we slept in our clothes to stay warm and were happy to see the sun each mid morning when we were finally able to thaw out from the night!
Peta
I am so glad Esco has decided to stay with you two. He knows where it is good. Nothing like an older car to provide excitement on a road trip. And nothing like meeting up with old friends. You know how to live. Have a great time!
We had to adjust to the new reality that Esco is now part of our family. Ideally we would have a more reliable car, but budget dictated a frugal approach. Hopefully the mechanical issues are finally resolved (yes we had more mechanic interactions on our next stop).
Been great to share this adventure with our “old” friends…. So pleased that they were bold enough to travel during these challenging times and be flexible enough to adjust to our “wing it” nomadic approach to travel. They have been awesome.
Peta
As always, you’ve turned a challenging situation into a fun one! When our new puppy is driving me nuts and making me feel resentful about how he has changed our spontaneity, I will have to think about you relocating with a three-legger in an old car with only some of your possessions! đ The lilies are incredible; I’m not sure I have even seen vast fields of them before. And how fun to have your Chicago friends join you for some time. Looking forward to seeing Oaxaca city with you!
Lex the day after Esco found his way home I did what I always do in challenging situations. I called one of my sons and asked for advice.
Here is what Adam said: “Mom, I don’t even understand how you can give a dog away. Go GET HIM BACK!” And so we did! Our other son Oren was quite sure Esco was here to stay from the start, even though we insisted that he was only “temporary”. And of course Josh and Ana, who found Esco in the first place, were thrilled at the turn of events. But yes you are absolutely correct that a dog does hamper spontaneity somewhat and we are still trying to figure out how we will travel to visit family on the West coast now that he is a permanent fixture in our lives.
I have never ever seen a field of lilies. It was such a unique and spectacular sight. And then the purple flowers, the orange fields and the hummingbirds en masse was incredible.
Peta
Nothing seems too much for you two!! Are we really related? How brave to tackle those mountains and twists and turns in your newly acquired wheels. Glad you got to fix it up early in your journey!! Amazing photos. Enjoy this next adventure and stay safe. Love accompanying you virtually on your journey! Keep on sharing.
Janice so nice to read you here! Hahaha you make me laugh. The drive up was definitely stressful for me, as I kept imagining all sorts of car horrors on a steep and twisty mountain road. Ben on the other hand kept cool as a cucumber. So as long as one of us can be calm in any situation, then together we manage okay.
Thanks for reading us and sharing your feedback. Stay tuned, lots more adventures coming up soon. Stay safe and healthy.
xoxo
Your cuz
Pete
I have decided to stop wishing the two of you well ‘in your next chapter’ since every week in your lives IS a new chapter. The way you guys adapt and mold into each new environment is remarkable and admirable. Thank you for allowing me to follow along on your life’s journey. Peace.
Suzanne you have us both laughing out loud hahaha. I guess your book does have a lot of chapters and change. Fortunately we both thrive on change. It was actually quite hard to leave Zipolite as we both loved life there. Yet, the lure of discovery of a new country and culture was overwhelmingly strong and while we could have stayed on the coast and found another place to stay, we decided to take the leap of travel (during pandemic times) as the opportunity presented itself.
Thanks for reading and sharing your thoughts. Peace to you too.
Peta
Looks like your “open ended escapade” is working out pretty good! Me, I’d be sorely tempted to take the French press along, but then you can always do cowboy coffee in a pinch, Ă la Brook Skillman! That verandah with wooden pillars was a score, a haven of peace and quiet I should think?
Ah Johnny… we reached a negotiated settlement whereby Ben has his French press with us and I got both my juicer and my vitamix. So we are all set! Had to laugh at the “Brook cowboy coffee” comment. Too funny how little things stick like that. Brook is the master of nomadic survival!
This place was the epitome of peace and quiet. So good for the soul! The only sounds were the braying of the donkeys at odd moments…. It was heavenly there.
Peta
I fully expected to get to the end of your wonderful post to see that Ben adopted the donkey and it had joined the three of you.
What a life you lead – it’s inspirational in the pivotal spiritual principle of detachment.
sending love,
judy
Hahaha Judith, that is an ENTIRELY feasable scenario and I shudder at the thought of the logistics involved. However, to be fair, I did almost adopt an other dog a few days ago. It was very close to happening….!
Appreciate your observation re our practice of non attachment. Our nomadic lifestyle teaches us this lesson over and over again. We will always prioritize experiences over stuff.
Sending you love too and big hugs
xoxo
Pete
Wow you guys! This is epic! Lucky Ecso to have the two of you. I think the change of plans to have a car is a gift from Esco to you. It will make for an entirely different kind of adventure than what you would have normally done. I love the way the universe works.
What a beautiful place you found in the mountains.
Onward and upward, well, probably downward from here. Looking forward to more.
Thanks Alison. You are so right.. we recognize that Esco is but an agent of an inevitable trajectory which merely unfolds as we go. Having a car has allowed us to bring with more creature comforts and it is so much easier to have somewhere to store out stuff. A closet on wheels makes life a lot easier. And then of course, with Covid, having our own car makes so much sense.
This mountain spot was pure magic! If it wasn’t so inaccessible, we would spend a lot more time there. Worth enduring the cold for.
Peta
I had to laugh, the caption of your photo about shit happens in 2020. I used the same sentiment in my latest post. If 2020 has taught me anything, it’s that shit happens. January 20, 2021 cannot come soon enough.
I’m curious, if you haven’t owned a car in a decade, what are you using for a license to drive? Were you able to get a Mexican license before you left?
Yup, Patti could not agree with you more… January 20th, 2020 cannot some SOON enough. Covid will still be around but at least we will be done with the crazy. Although, of course he and his cronies will certainly do their best to stir up the pot whenever they can.
We both have U.S. drivers licenses and keep them updated as necessary. We use them for I.D. and so that we can drive a car when we are in the U.S. visiting family.
Peta
Ah…that makes sense.
A fabulous update Peta and those photos of white lilies are beautiful!! All the best for your next adventure!
Thanks Debbie. The field of lilies was a real treat! So unique.
Peta
What an interesting post! You have so much going on, yet you seem to take it all in stride. Love the story of the dog returning to you — why wouldn’t he? And then the car that needs repair – oh, my. But the peacefulness of that place with the lilies makes it all worthwhile. Best wishes for settling in, painting, and enjoying the world around you!
Rusha you are right.. the tranquility of being up in the mountains was really special and definitely worthwhile.
Thanks so much.
Peta
Annie already posted a comment but I just had to share with you some reviews I saw when I looked up San Jose Del Pacifico on Google maps to see where it was:
“… San JosĂŠ del PacĂfico is known primarily for one thing: the hallucinogenic mushroom.”
“You can buy everything here. Lsd, mushrooms, dmt, hashish, weed…. I love that place⤠and very beautiful view.”
Just yoga, mountain views and serenity – really?
Seriously, great photos and so glad you and loved ones are safe and healthy.
Steve
Ah yup, you are correct, San Jose Del Pacifico is indeed famous for its magic mushrooms đ There is often a sub story behind the main story that is not necessarily told….
That’s all I’m sayin…. haha
Peta
Esco is definitely one very devoted – and determined dog, Peta. How sweet – and fortunate for all of you. And the situation sent you off on a different kind of journey. Well, they always say the journey is just as important as the destination. Wishing you all the best on your next adventure. ~Terri
Well we know that Esco would have eventually adjusted to his new home. However, since we were leaving soon after, we felt that we had to make a decision. I consulted with one of my sons, who said, “keep him, of course’! Even though practically it would be easier without him, emotionally this felt like the right move for him, and for me. Ben was still voting for the carefree life.
Thanks Teri.
Peta
Franki J:
San Jose del Pacifico looks like the most incredible location to feel grounded and at peace with the world. This is my favourite of your destinations so far. Your photos are fabulous and the amazing aura of the mountains looks to be stunning. Iâm so delighted that you decided to take Esco with you – itâs evident that he loves and needs you both.
Take care beautiful girl. My hugest love,
Fran, you are correct. San Jose del Pacifico is a very special place, way up in the clouds away from the realities of life, just surrounded by stunning nature. I was definitely in my element. Except perhaps for the very cold nights and early mornings đ
Esco is a sweetheart. Sometimes stubborn but very sweet. He clearly belongs with us. Thanks for your beautiful comments
Pete
xoxo
Wow! You always find the most beautiful places â¤
Where will you be on your birthday Benji?
Love you both , stay safe đ
Nice to read you here Soph.
YES and one of these days we hope you come and visit us.
We hit the road tomorrow, and will be somewhere in the Yucatan for Ben’s birthday!
xoxox
What a beautiful place you picked for a pit stop on your drive to the big city. Hopefully not too tricky for your friends to get to? Esco is doing awesome! Do you find it difficult to find pet-friendly lodging? Or, is it okey to not mention youâre traveling with a dog? Sorry about the disastrous start to your journey. I hope the car has proven itself a bit better by now. Wonderful photos, you two!
We have wanted to do the trip to the mountains for a while… having heard about itâs beauty from friends. Still nothing could have prepared us for the beauty. The lodging had a taxi meet our friends at the airport and then it was a 3 hour drive from there for them.
We will now need to look for pet friendly accommodation wherever we go. Some do allow and others donât … Generally speaking though restaurants are v dog friendly.
Haha we donât think of the start as âdisastrousâ because hey, we made it to our destination albeit a few hours late… but safety in one piece~ the main priority đ Car went back to a mechanic here in OC and is doing way better now whew.
Thanks Liesbet.
I am so glad Esco twisted your arm. He is one lucky dog!
Haha he sure is! A very sweet one too.
Peta
What a gorgeous beginning to your next chapter of adventures! I love that Esco has his forever home with you. And that opened up a whole new way of travel for you…there are delights to having a vehicle (your suitcase on wheels, LOL) and also complications, as you discovered. So glad you got those glitches worked out!!
How fun that your friends and kindred spirits are sharing your journey with you for a bit. Every place you find to call home (no matter how temporary) looks positively idyllic. Your lives really are a reflection of your artistic souls.
Laurel, turns out that having a car has really worked well especially in light of CoVid. And it is great to have somewhere to store some extra stuff that we would not have been able to have access to without a car. Things do have a way of working out.
It was great fun to have our friends meet up with us and share some time together. Most people are reluctant to travel right now, but am so glad they took the plunge. They loved the trip.
This mountain location was very special. I just loved it… Magical. Thanks for your lovely comments.
Hope you are both doing well.
Peta
Loving this latest adventure and all the possibilities a car and Esco both inspire!! Enjoy the mountains! The house looks rustic and amazing.
Kelly it has been great having a car and it turns out, having Esco with us. He has been quite the trooper. Easier than expected. The house was definitely rustic and our chimney was blocked, so we did not have the advantage of the fireplace at night. But even so, the place was totally worth it.
Peta
Kelly thank goodness for the car, with Covid and all. Plus we got all sorts of goodies stashed in there, and then as you will see in an upcoming post, the car serves as a giant canvas!
The house was definitely on the rustic side with beds that were not very comfy and we got smoked out by our fireplace. That meant we had to open the doors which made it extra frosty.. But it really was all worth it for the beauty of the place.
Peta
Wow, just as you settle in, you’re off again. You truly are nomads and I love your attitude of “we’ll see where it takes us”. It’s a real inspiration how you turn would could be barriers for many of us into opportunities. Wonderful story about Esco returning to you guys and how you’ve fit him into your nomadic life. The cloud forest is gorgeous and those Cala lilies are stunning…we pay big bucks for those here. I’m glad you had a nice time with friends and look forward to your further adventures.
Caroline, it really did not feel like much time back in Zipolite after Chicago. The two weeks flew by.. there was so much to organize and take care of before leaving again. Itâs true that we both get âitchy feetâ but at the same time, we have loved being in one place for an extended time and look forward to going back after doing some exploring and discovering.
Ah yes, those cala lilies were such a wonderful surprise. I have never ever seen so many of them growing together. What a sight⌠especially in the afternoon when the mist started to creep in. Glorious.
Thanks Caroline, good to read you.
Peta
I’ve been wanting to get to your post for so long – and it was worth the wait! (“life” happens and I don’t get on-line as much as I’d like). Anyway, I’m still panting over your photos. First. the white Cala Lilies. They are my mom’s favorite – they used to grow in neighbors’ yards near where we lived in the bay area, and whenever my mom visited from the East coast she’d threaten to cut the Cala lilies and bring them to my house. I had to stop her with a warning look. But oh my, she’d be in heaven in your mountainous region. In fact, perhaps she’s visited you in spirit. She also enjoys sending bright rainbows, so if you see one, that’s her. <3
What a glorious get-away you have accomplished, even with limping dog and car. I'm sure Esco is bringing you lots of love and luck. Our favorite long car trip was when we drove from east coast to west coast with our 9-year-old Golden, Henry, in the back seat. He was so joyful to be ensconced with us in that small space for long hours every day it brought us happiness just watching him smile.
Again, thank you both for bringing us along on your incredible adventures in which you show patience, love, light, and are rewarded a hundred fold.
Pam It’s nice to know that the Cala Lilies inspired so many memories of your mom. That how Dia de Los Muertos works (see the next latest blog post!). They are one of my favorite flowers too. Seeing so many of them all together was quite spectacular.
Esco has been a real trooper. We weren’t sure how he would react to long hours in the car because up till now he has actually shown a lot of anxiety whenever he went in a car. But seems that those paranoias are now long gone. Thankfully. He also gets a lot of attention no matter where we are, people affectionately term him “pobresito” which means “poor thing”….
Peta
What a wonderful place to meet up with old friends! Iâm amazed to see so many flowers up in the mountains at this time of year – Cala lilies, the yellow flowers, the orange flowers, the purple flowers… in our northern climate, the season for flowers is quite short (although our coastal climate on Vancouver Island pushes the boundaries). Work must be challenging for Ben while on the road in such locations.
Jude
Jude, it was a great starting point to meet our friends before embarking on our adventure in Oaxaca City with them.
The variety and vibrancy of the flowers in the mountains were surprising to us as well and only added to the overall beauty of the mountain setting.
It is a challenge when we get somewhere particularly beautiful or interesting, that Ben has to hunker down and do zoom business calls, write proposals etc. But someone has to keep funding the adventures… Haha
Peta
The filled gas tank is too heavy for the bar that holds it in place – Oh my goodness – I did not expect that! Love the story about Eso and that you made room in your lives for the dog who let you rescue him. The adobe mountain house is wonderful, looks as if it was built with whatever could be salvaged from the area. Every episode I read here is more exciting than the last – such a treat for me as we rarely travel.
Sharon so glad that you are enjoying our posts so much. We are well aware that so many cannot travel now and we are happy to at least share our adventures.
Ah well Esco was not keen on his new adopted home, even though it was a very loving one.. he had decided where his home was to be. We thought it would be very challenging with him on the road but in fact, he has been very easy and enjoying everything. It has been very fun to have him along as well, as he is a great conversation starter.
P&B