5 Surprises as we kick off our road trip in Southern Mexico

We ponder the options that lure us onward. After 3 weeks in Oaxaca City, we are very ready to do some adventuring. Time to kick off our road trip.

We are still neophytes in Mexico, having spent all of our time on the Southern coast of Oaxaca, since we arrived in the early days of the pandemic. No matter what direction we drive in, it will result in more experiences and knowledge of Mexico. We consider heading North in the direction of Baja California, or San Miguel de Allende or Puebla. We even contemplate road-tripping all the way to Los Angeles to surprise Ben’s mom.

Just two days before leaving we finally select the region for our explorations. We will head to the Yucatan!

We do some research, to plot a possible, yet flexible route, that will eventually have us reaching the final destination of Bacalar in the Southern state of Quintana Roo, just above Belize. However, we are only doing enough research for the first few days of our trip so as to not overwhelm ourselves with information and because we want the flexibility to have our trip organically evolve as we go.

Our intention is to never drive more than four to five hours a day, to take plenty of days off in between driving and to avoid driving at night. The one caution we have received from numerous people is to avoid night driving.

We also consider how Covid is impacting the states and cities we plan to visit. The green-yellow-red Covid monitoring system used in Mexico allows us to avoid “red zones” and navigate only in the green zones whenever possible.

The red line is the first leg of our road trip, and that which we will cover in this blog post.

Surprise #1 ~ Diverse landscapes

The scenery and the ever changing landscape as we kick off our road trip take us by surprise. The diversity in the landscape and the abundant beauty are astounding. Almost every where we drive we are constantly wowed by the incredible views and vastness of undeveloped land. For some reason we had visualized Mexico as being predominantly made up of cities and desert. How wrong we were!

In two days we drive through a cacti forest, see a snow-capped volcano and continue on through lake territory and then lush rolling hills.

And off we go. Smooth new highways, easy sailing….
Very soon out of Oaxaca City, there is not a structure in sight, just mountains and cacti.
The Tehuacan-Cuicatlan Valley is a UNESCO WOrld Heritage site. The forest of tall vertical cacti is now a rare and endangered site, which covers 150,000 hectares along the border between the States of Oaxaca and Puebla.

We are catching merely a glimpse of the 150,000 hectares of beauty. Per UNESCO, the area has the richest biodiversity in the whole of North America.

Not sure what the name of these unusual looking plants is, but we enjoy the sight of them, in contrast to and coming directly after all the tall skinny cacti.

Our route has us circumventing the great Sierra Madre del Sur mountain range which cuts across Southern Mexico diagonally. We are deliberately trying to avoid high mountainous routes, at least when we can.

Definitely a surprise to see Pico de Orizaba, not long after leaving the cacti forest. Orizaba is an inactive volcano, the highest mountain in Mexico and the third highest in North America. It is on the border between the states of Veracruz and Puebla. The volcano is currently dormant but not extinct, with the last eruption taking place during the 19th century.
Simple lodging for the night, opting for nature over city. Perhaps more rustic than we had envisioned. If our past travels in Asia are indicative of our travel style, we will probably wind up with a wind range of accommodations from rustic to luxurious.
Fern like bamboo outside our cabin for the night ~ this region is the start of bamboo territory.
In the morning we have a tiny sliver of Mt. Orizaba, which is just visible above the lush foliage.

There is also a town of Orizaba and in the morning we are off in search of a good breakfast before we get back on the road.

Where to find breakfast? Near the main church of course, which is usually central to the hub of commercial activity.
The search for the “best cappuccino in Orizaba” leads us to a cute roof top cafe with a view onto the church.

Surprise #2: Distance and time

Our second surprise comes in the form of a reality check. When google says a certain distance between two points will take four hours, reality is… it takes us six to seven hours.

This has us driving all day for our second day, instead of the leisurely four hours we had anticipated. We are enjoying how quickly the scenery around is us changing, as we make our way into the lake region of Catemaco.

We were hoping to arrive at our lake side destination with a few hours of daylight left. But it was not to be, we got there just as the sun was setting! We for sure had also not anticipated the bumpy rocky road around the lake, which on the map looked quite short but surprise, ended up being an arduous drive to get to our lodging before dark all the while, jostling the muddy terrain in our less than stellar vehicle.

We are rewarded with this peaceful lake scene after our rather stressful last few hours of driving to get here. With all the effort to get here, we should have stayed longer….
JUST in time for the end of the sunset. Well, maybe a tad late actually.
As we leave the lake behind us in the valley, we start to climb through verdant green rolling hills. Every turn gives us a new gorgeous view on both sides.
The surprise of the landscape continues. Was it JUST yesterday we were in bamboo country and then lake territory?
We stop to say hi to a few friendly cows
As we get closer to some small pueblos, corn appears to be the main agricultural crop.

Surprise #3 ~ Pothole hell

As we enter the state of Tabasco, bucolic splendour turns into highway hell.

After the muddy lake road, we are momentarily happy to finally be on smooth ground, but this is a fleeting state of euphoria.

Soon after we get onto the highway, the smooth asphalt road turns into a battlefield. One massive pot hole after the other! Lethal at any speed. Our car is not handling this well at all. The suspension which we have just had repaired, seems to be worse than before. As we avoid potholes, or hit some of the smaller ones, the car starts shaking violently. Scary stuff.

The sun is slowly fading and because we have to drive extra slowly and got the car late from the repair shop, we find ourselves on the road at night! The one scenario we were warned to avoid! After battling the pot holes, in the dark, we start to look for signs for a hotel off the highway. Any hotel. We are in the middle of nowhere, vast open land, save for a few pueblos indicated on the map.

Note to the state of Tabasco: we will be avoiding you in the future. Your roads did not treat us well.

After an exhausting hour of stressful night driving we finally see a sign for a roadside hotel. Expecting a flea bag of a place, instead we are rewarded with a just completed renovation of an industrial warehouse converted into a bed and breakfast, resplendent with a brand new king size ultra cushy bed and a hot shower. (Insert hallelujah hymn).

And so it is.. the first of many (to come, unbeknown to us at this stage) stops for repairs.

Surprise #4 ~ The omnipresence of the Mayan Civilization

After driving through the states of Oaxaca and Veracruz, we cross into the Southernmost nature filled state in Mexico ~ Chiapas.

Historically, Chiapas was the seat of the great Mayan civilization, as well as the prior Olmec civilization. Centuries later, in the mid seventies, Chiapas also gave birth to and fueled the far left Zapatista Army of National Liberation (the Zapatistas) which grew strong amongst the indigenous Mayan population of farmers. The global population of Mayans today stands at 6 million.

Chiapas history translates into a rich tapestry of cities, pueblos and vast rural areas where Mayan culture is alive and well still today. The current population in Chiapas is comprised of direct descendants from the Mayan builders of large temples and skilled craftsmen. The language of ancient Mayans, Tsotsil is spoken on par with Spanish and evolved into 30 different dialects.

While Chiapas is chockfull of ancient Mayan archeological sites, Palenque, is considered the crown-jewel of archeological sites in the state, due to the well-preserved carvings that provided the key to deciphering the Mayan written language.

By 2005 the discovered area covered 2.5 square kms but it is estimated that less than 10% of the total area of the city state has been explored, leaving more than a 1,000 structures still covered by jungle.
These huge leaves give the plant the common name: “elephants ear” and one can see why.
We were thrilled to see four scarlet macaws which are endemic to this region, in treetops and then in flight overhead. These are the largest of the parrot family and their plumage is quite magnificent. The colours are so intense ~ primary colours right out of a paint box. (Photo credit unknown)

Palenque was a Mayan city state that flourished in the 7th century. After its decline it was overgrown by the jungle of cedar, mahogany and sapodilla trees, but since its “rediscovery” in the early 20th century, Palenque has been incrementally excavated and restored. This is still very much a work in progress with only a fraction of the Mayan temple structures having being unearthed.

We are about to visit The Temple of the Cross complex. The Temple of the Cross, The Temple of the Sun and the Temple of the Foliated cross, are located on platforms, each having elaborate carvings and interior chambers which explain rituals and allegiances to Mayan gods.

The Temple of Inscriptions ~ perhaps the most significant structure of the site. The building has a record of approx 180 years and it is also the place of the Kings Tomb. Construction of this temple atop the step pyramid started in 675. The temple houses the second longest glyphic text known from the Mayan world.
The palace is a complex of several connected and adjacent buildings and courtyards. The palace was used by the Mayan aristocracy for bureaucratic functions, entertainment and ritualistic ceremonies.

We arrive early so as to be amongst the first visitors for the day and due to the pandemic, it turns out we are the very first ones in, giving us a rare opportunity apparently to walk through the sites without crowds. We are excited. This is our first visit to one of many Mayan archaeological sites in Southern Mexico.

Per Mayan design, the layout of each site was done according to the astrological line up of the stars at the time of construction.
This nine tier pyramid is impressive for its tight construction and sharp angles as well as good condition.
Being amongst just a few visitors allows us to do our yoga practice amongst the ruins.

While Palenque is not the largest archaeological site, (smaller than other sites we visit later during our road trip), it contains some of the finest architecture, sculpture, and bas-relief, carvings that the Mayans produced.

The white plaster bas relief gives a hint at the sculpture work inside the temples.
Carvings depicting Mayan aristocracy that controlled the religious, administrative and economic affairs of the Mayan kingdom.
The Mayan alphabet was a pictogram alphabet (much like Chinese or Japanese). Mayan inscriptions are found on stone slabs, sculpture and pottery as well as on a few surviving Mayan books. The Mayan system of writing contains more than 800 characters including some that are hieroglyphic and other phonetic signs representing syllables.
The Mayan calendar was comprised of 260 days and was used to determine important activities related to gods and humans. It was used to name individuals, predict the future, decide on auspicious dates for battles or marriages. These 260 days are divided into 19 Mayan zodiac signs.
A vendor helps us translate our Western calendar birthdates into the Mayan calendar and we find out that Ben’s birthday falls in the month of Xhul, translated means “Baby Jaguar”. Awww…. These tiles are pendants with the Mayan calendar birth “zodiac” signs.
The grounds of Palenque are expansive and give a great feeling of space and tranquility.
Perfect day
Oh what these stones must have seen over the past 1300 years!
Perfect place to celebrate baby jaguar’s birthday in style.

Surprise #5 ~ Esco is a road tripper!

We were skeptical about how our rescue dog Esco would adapt to our nomadic lifestyle, on this road trip. He has only been in a car twice since we adopted him, and one of those times was when we first received him. It is clear that car rides have a negative association for him and that he is not a fan.

So what a surprise that the more time we spend driving, the more Esco is enjoying the ride. He has his bed in the back seat and seems to like having us right nearby him for hours on end. He is quite the road tripper now! When he sees his bed leaving the car, he has no worries.. his home is quite portable.

Esco with his bed and the whole backseat to himself. (Aside from the occasional basket that topples onto him from the trunk).
Happy road trippers!

Post scriptum: We are currently back in Zipolite, Oaxaca slowly catching up on blogging about our epic road trip which lasted for ten weeks and covered 2500 miles. Stay tuned for more!

34 thoughts on “5 Surprises as we kick off our road trip in Southern Mexico

  1. Rusha Sams

    I really like the way you grouped your impressions of this “new” country, so we can see it through your eyes. Also loved the Mayan ruins and the various terrains on your travels. Thanks for posting!

    1. greenglobaltrek

      Rusha glad the thematic approach resonated with you. This was but the first of many Mayan archaeological sites to come. Each one totally different from the others. Fascinating for us.

      Thanks for stopping by to read us.

      P&B

  2. Sharon Rosenzweig

    So many surprises! I love the shot of Peta with the giant elephant ear, and Esco ensconced in his backseat sanctum, and your intrepid vehicle enduring the bombed out highway. The ruins are spectacular. That’s a great travel tip about if you want cappuccino, head for the cathedral. Success!

    1. greenglobaltrek

      Interestingly, we planted elephant ear in our outdoor bathroom garden in Sri Lanka. We have a photo of my using it as a shower curtain the leaf is so big! Such a magnificent plant.

      Haha yes Esco definitely likes having the backseat to himself. Although he did enjoy sitting on your and Aaron’s laps as well.

      The cathedral is most usually in the center of town and it is also the place where the locals congregate therefore there will be coffee, food and activity.

      Thanks for your fun feedback!

      xoxo
      P&B

  3. Jacqueline Bell

    Magnificent sceneries except for the pot holes‼️‼️‼️‼️I still think that you both are much too adventurous for my taste but I admire you …Are you sure that babyJaguar is my son⁉️⁉️⁉️⁉️
    Just take care of yourselves and stay safe PLEASE.
    I love you both❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

    1. greenglobaltrek

      Hahaha. Well did you not know you had such an adventurous son? He gets me into all sorts of situations…. Adventure is what it is all about! He is a Sagittarius after all….

      We are taking care and are safe. Much love your way too.

      xoxoxo

  4. Lexklein

    Love all of it! I just planted elephant’s ear here in our garden after the freeze killed nearly everything in sight. Hope it gets as big as the ones in your photo! All of the scenery you passed through is spectacular, and I envy your time on the road (except maybe that one in Tabasco … 🙁 ) Keep on enjoying your “new” country; there is much left to explore!

    1. greenglobaltrek

      Thanks Lex for your enthusiasm. Do hope your elephant’s ear survives and thrives. So loved the scenery and it only got better and better. We are enjoying and loving Mexico, for sure and looking very forward to further explorations.

      Peta

  5. Slaght Sue

    Yikes to those potholes! I could feel the relief at finding the renovated bed and breakfast and the repair shop. What an amazing diversity of landscapes. I recall seeing that elephant ear leaf on your social media. how astounding is that! nature really is incredible.
    Happy Birthday to Little Jaguar. many good wishes for the year ahead.

    1. greenglobaltrek

      Yup those potholes were pretty lethal. Maybe in a really strong and newer car less so, but for our vehicle it was definitely a life and death scenario. Exhausting and stressful, but what a relief to flop into a really comfy bed and start again the next day with some daylight.

      It was a perfect birthday celebration for Ben. Thanks!

      Peta

  6. Judy Westerfield

    It’s good that nude statues didn’t cover”nether regions” with the elephant ear because the only thing to be seen would be their head.
    Great road trip, I enjoyed from my couch where there are no pot holes.
    xxxx judy

    1. greenglobaltrek

      Interesting you mention the elephant ears covering nude torsos because I recall Ben taking photos of me in Sri Lanka in our shower, with the elephant ear as my shower curtain. My legs and head were visible. This one pictured is way larger.

      Haha, there is a benefit to being a couch potato after all….xoxo

      Peta

  7. susan scott

    Amazing photography and experiences Peta and Ben thank you for sharing them with us. Glad Esco has taken to road tripping. Pot holes are the scourge of SA too …

    1. greenglobaltrek

      Thank you Susan for the lovely compliments. Yes now that we are back in our home on the coast, Esco seems to miss the car… Ah well, hopefully there will be more opportunities for road trips in our and his future.

      Peta

  8. Alison

    This brought back some great memories. Don and I covered more or less the same area (the whole Yucatan Peninsula) a few years back travelling by bus mainly, and loved it. Mexican buses are great – seats bigger than airline business class so lots of room to spread out. Your drive sounds pretty hellish at times, but I’m thinking it wasn’t all like that. Looking forward to the next instalments. So lovely that Esco has become a travelling dog.

    1. Peta Kaplan

      Alison yes we have had that input re bus rides here and that would normally be the way for us to roll.. however, with the pandemic it was not an option for us. Also, travelling with a dog would be way more challenging on buses. And the added benefit of having a car meant we could also bring the dog’s bed and my juicer and vitamix along.

      Oh no there was just this ONE section in Tabasco, on our whole trip through the Yucatan that had hellish roads. The rest was smooth sailing…

      Thanks for your comments.

      Peta

  9. Liesbet

    Argh, those darn potholes! Yes, yes, yes, to all your surprises and discoveries. Traveling overland in Mexico is S L O W! Potholes, no shoulders, mountain roads, military checkpoints, town centers, and … topes. How have those been treating you on the mainland? Especially the unmarked ones. Yikes!

    This country is so diverse. We crisscrossed it for six months in a previous life and barely touched the surface. We loved Palenque. So nice you were there basically by yourselves. I was wondering what you did with Esco during that visit. I assume he could stay in the hotel or maybe it was cool enough in the car. We remember how tough it has been in past years to travel with dogs in the tropics.

    Looking forward to the next installment of your “epic road trip.” Not looking forward to learning about your car troubles. Sigh! Hopefully, they all got resolved in a timely and affordable fashion! Sending you hugs from Baja!

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Ah yesss those damned topes, or as most people know them, “speedbumps”. We encountered many many of those when we drove through Chiapas towards the end of our travels.

      The diversity we experienced was mind boggling and we look forward to discovering more. Esco stayed in the hotel room while we were in Palenque. Every ruin except for one did not allow dogs and so he either stayed in the hotel or our car depending on which worked out better. When we left him in the car, we would usually pay a small fee to one of the parking attendants to keep an eye on him and the car.

      Ah yes, plenty of car troubles, but par for the course, repairs, more troubles, repairs and so it goes… It got us where we needed to go and also safely back home.

      Hugs to all of you in Baja

      Peta

  10. Gilda Baxter

    Peta and Ben, nothing like a road trip to really experience a country. So many beautiful landscapes and experiences…minus the potholes. Also so lovely that you managed to travel with your dog and that he was totally unfazed by the car journey. Mexico is a country that we know so little about, so your posts are an education.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Gilda you are right, a road trip really does have a different qualitative feel to flying from point A to point B. One gets such an understanding of the landscape and terrain and how one town links to the countryside which then links to the next town.

      Yes Esco adjusted very quickly. Surprisingly so. We thought he would need an adjustment period but he was a real trooper.

      Great that you are learning about Mexico along with us on our road trip. Put on your seat belt, much to come.

      Peta

  11. Amit

    A marvelous adventure! What’s a few pot holes among the glory of lush mountains, volcano, cornfields, Mayan temples, king-size beds and Esco the Roadtripper.. all of them such sweet memories?! And yes, baby jaguar seems to fit Ben quite nicely. And YOU, Peta?

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Hahaha exactly right! The pot holes were long forgotten by the next day and their memory got vaguer and vaguer the further in to our discovery we got.

      Thanks for reading and leaving us your comments.

      My corresponding Mayan calendar sign is the woodpecker!

      Peta

  12. Caroline Helbig

    That snow covered volcano peak is certainly a surprise to me. I love the photo of it just visible above the lush foliage. I’m glad you guys can roll with the flow. I would have been really stressed driving at night in an unknown area on those potholed roads. Thank goodness you stumbled upon a nice place to overnight (when this stuff happens to us we usually end up in a flea bag). I am envious of your Palenque visit. Mike was there many years ago and still talks very fondly of it. Hopefully we’ll get there in the not too distant future.

    I’ll be curious to read about your ongoing trip through Quintana Roo. We drove through this area almost 20 years ago and enjoyed our visits to the very peaceful and hidden Mayan ruins. And talk about a surprise at Lake Bacalar. Alex, who was only 5ish at the time still remembers that crystal clear water.

    Nice to hear that you’ve found a kindred nomad in Esco!
    Take care!
    Caroline & Mike

    1. greenglobaltrek

      Caroline so nice to read you!

      Yes that snow covered volcano was literally a huge surprise. But to come out of a cactus forest in desert like terrain and then see snow on a volcano ~ wow!

      We completely expected to find ourselves in a flea bag of a place… and yet in the middle of nowhere we got exactly what we wanted to find… a comfortable big bed, hot shower, and what we needed!

      Ahhhh lake Bacalar was our actual “destination”. When we first looked at the map, Ben said “no way.. we not going to go there. It is WAY too far of a drive.” But we did. And we are so glad we did, it was well worth it. Amazing that you were there twenty years ago. We were told that at that time, properties were selling for next to nothing that are now worth a million dollars on the lake front. And Bacalar is not yet a destination that pulls in big tourist numbers!

      Peta & Ben

    1. greenglobaltrek

      Thanks Caroline. That was taken recently here in Zipolite. We realized we had an older photo where I still had my long brown locks and needed one with my shorn hair.

      xoxo
      Peta

  13. Ally Bean

    Beautiful photos and explanation of your adventure. I like your surprises, in the sense that they happened and you learned, not in the sense that there were inconveniences. I’m glad that Esco is such an agreeable travel companion. He looks very content in his bed in the backseat.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thanks Ally.

      Yes, mostly we had surprises of the positive type. Only the potholes were in the negative category, pleased to say.

      Even now that we are back on the Southern coast, Esco still loves to jump into a cab at any given opportunity ~ missing the road trip life.

      Peta

  14. Pamela

    An incredible road trip, and I felt like Esco, sitting comfortably in the back seat, letting you be the tour guide (and also the stressor of pot holes and car repairs). Sooo relaxing back here, watching the macaw fly ahead and oohing and ahhing over the Mayan ruins. Thanks for bringing me along, and happy birthday to Ben. A Pisces, like me? Ben and Esco look sooo content.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Ben is a Sagittarius ~ we are just rather late in writing about our road trip which took place last year in November.

      Ah yes, Esco was a very happy camper. It was a great birthday!

      Peta

  15. Bama

    Having Palenque all for yourselves is amazing! That would be the definition of a perfect holiday for me: being in an ancient site without having any other visitors in sight. But of course, that is more a wishful thinking, and sometimes having people in the shots can help others comprehend the scale of a structure. A few years ago, a blogger with his wife who spent months traveling across Mexico ended up getting the same impression: that the country’s landscape and cultures are so diverse and beautiful so much so it is now his favorite country on the planet. It surely on top of my wishlist. Hope all is well for both of you.

    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Yes, the silver lining of Covid is that wherever one happens to be, there are of course way fewer people. Luckily for us, we are in Mexico and exploring the Mayan ruins during Covid is quite special. The diversity of landscape and the sheer beauty is way beyond anything we expected. Very happy with our choice of new home!

      Hope you get to visit here one day and perhaps we can meet at a Mayan site! Do hurry before the crowds come back though…

      Peta

  16. Dr Sock

    Peta, you gave such a great account of Mayan historical facts associated with Palanque. I have explored only a few parts of Mexico — the area around Mexico City, San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Puerta Viallarta, and the Yucatan Peninsula (including Merida, Chichen Itza, Cancun, and Isla Mujeres. I love the country and would really like to go back.

    Jude

  17. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

    Jude it sounds like you have done quite a lot of visiting around different parts of Mexico! What we are realizing is just how varied the landscape, the different regions are, the historic sites. It is quite mind blowing how much there is to see and do and discover yet, still. So yes, hope you do get to come back and discover more! We are just at the beginning of our exploration and enjoyed a few days recently in Mexico City.

    Peta

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Sign me up to receive new posts

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.