October 2023
After the Shinkansen (bullet train) ride down from Tokyo to Kyushu, for our ceramic immersion and discovery of the town of Bikan, followed by an art filled discovery of Naoshima Art Island, we head to central Japan.
First to Nagoya, and then up through the Central Highlands of Honshu...
Have you ever heard of a Japanese temple market?
We’ve been to Japan 4 times together now, and each time Ben tells me about a particular temple market, in the city of Nagoya where he used to live (before his 1st job in Tokyo, 40 years ago), that he wants to go back to, with me.
The first experience I had with temple markets, was a large one in Kyoto and then last December a tiny one in Tokyo. Both memorable experiences. But still Ben kept referring back to a particular temple market in Nagoya which he recalled fondly for the quality of antiques, and wanted to share the experience with me.
Now as we make our way to central Japan for our next adventure, Nagoya is kind of on the way…
Temple markets are but once a month and our timing is right! We are finally going to the Nagoya Osu Kannon temple market together!
Open from sunrise to sunset, this temple market has a distinctive chill vibe. We are here to look but not to buy as our small suitcases are full.
But… there’s a woman selling pants which she made from old temple flags and ship sails. One can always make exceptions!
Cool, unique and colorful. Just can’t pass them up!
Two women wearing fantastic outfits watch as the only foreigner around tries on pants ~ they are full of encouragement as well as amusement.
The market is full of locals, who come once a month for this temple market, sorting through vintage kimonos, antique scrolls, pottery, handmade clothes…
Then we checked out the vintage silk kimonos.. selecting one for me and one for a good friend. A tiny elderly Japanese woman comes over and is readjusting the fabric on me and showing me how to wear it correctly. She and her friend give their opinions as to which ones they like and we all have a good laugh together. Language and the lack there of … honestly makes no difference.
There’s no doubt that Japanese women have style. One girl caught our attention with her cool look in a traditional kimono with chunky boots and accessories. Peta sat down to chat with her…
Ben was right.. this temple market is special. The interaction with locals is easy and warm and there’s very much a neighborhood feel. Great stalls, good prices and super unique items and clothes made from traditional fabrics.
In a prior life, Ben must have been a samurai!
Before Japan became Japan ~ a unified country that spread over multiple islands of the Japanese archipelago, warring clans governed respective provinces under military lords called “daimyo”.
It was Nagoya’s regional leader Tokugawa who took it upon himself to unify these warring clans into a single country that brought lasting peace for the country. (if you’ve seen the movie Shogun, it’s all about this period in history) lasted from 1603 to 1868. Also known as the Edo period.)
This era of prolonged peace permitted the emergence of a merchant class, of unmatched aesthetics w emphasis on the arts and all the magnificent visuals from the Edo period are the result of Tokugawa’s reign.
Although we came to Nagoya specifically for the temple market, we thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Japan’s largest castle, and its beautiful garden and outstanding museum with a massive collection of huge and very detailed scrolls.
The highlight of the castle for us were the magnificent, gold leaf painted screens with mostly nature scenes in the tatami rooms.
Nakasendo trail
Imagine you were a Japanese feudal lord, in the days of the Samurai (Edo period 1603 – 1868), wanting to travel from Kyoto to the then capital of Edo (now Tokyo). You would have travelled by foot or horseback with servants & soldiers on the Nakasendo trail.
We did just that, minus the servants and horses. The Nakasendo trail is one of Japan’s most famous walking trails and as soon as we first heard about it, we knew we wanted to do it! Walking the 500 km trail which runs between small villages is a great way to sample Japan’s rural scenery.
We hiked on old stone paths for 4 hours through cypress, pine and cedar forests, flowering meadows, bamboo groves, past crystal clear streams, waterfalls and through ancient Japanese mountain towns. We passed a few farmers and a 400 year old tea house, still in operation today.
There are 69 “postal towns” which today are still connected by ancient paths. We chose to hike between two charming, well preserved towns (Magome to Tsumago) with beautiful wooden homes. Many of these with lattice windows, flower pots overflowing and Edo era antiques. Some are now converted into guesthouses, small shops featuring local crafts and tiny eateries.
Our main (heavy) suitcases had been sent from Nagoya to Tokyo with an incredibly convenient service for travelers. We have just our backpacks with essentials with us… but still, we are pleased to find a similar transport service which shuttles backpacks between the two towns, Magome and Tsumago for a nominal fee. This makes for a much more carefree hiking experience!
As we walk, the terrain changes rapidly from cobblestones to dirt paths, dense forest to sloping hills with views over the Kiso valley.
Japan is unseasonably hot right now and we felt it at the start of the hike. Fortunately cold mountain water gushes out of spouts in a few places, providing us an opportunity to dunk our heads. Near the end of the hike we see a path through a bamboo grove that leads to the river and yes we ditch our clothes and submerge in the invigorating icy water!
A 400 year old tea house which provided rest for the tired samurai, still functions as a tea house today for a welcome pause along the way.
All good things in Japan end with a superb meal
Sometimes things just work out, in an organic way…
And so it happened that we got to overlap with two of “the kids” (Josh & Ana), in Tokyo. They are at the start of their (belated) honeymoon and their first time in Japan and we are coming to the end of our trip here.
We have a day and a half together in Tokyo ~ what a blast!
We head to Yogini park and discover a once a year food festival featuring food specialties from the northern island of Hokkaido. We enjoy grilled scallops, venison, sweet melon and a strange new vegetable that grows taller than 6 feet high but has no English name (chihara). It’s Sunday so it’s jam packed with Tokyoites enjoying the festivities.
We spend hours walking the streets of Harujuku looking at fancy and funky shops and making our way through throngs of people ~ a true Harajuku experience.
We eat mounds of sushi at a kaitenzushi where the conveyer belt keeps delivering sushi options. Pay by the plate.
On our last morning together we experience Tsukiji fish market together, another iconic Tokyo neighborhood. Raw oysters, the freshest tuna imaginable, warm tamago (Japanese omelette) grilled eel and of course a bean paste fish shaped dessert.
What a super market. I love the pants you bought and later wore. They are perfect and you just could not, not have bought them! And how wonderful to have an overlap with your kids.
Thanks Darlene for stopping by. Yes, the overlap with the kids was unplanned until pretty much the last minute when we realized we might be able to connect. And introducing them to Tokyo was a treat!
Ben & Peta
I hung on to every word – love the samurai and the tales of the clans. This trip looked absolutely amazing- the best kind of memorable experiences. Giving me lots of ideas to get back to Japan (we only spend a wk in Tokyo on our way to Thailand)
Ella!
So glad we could provide some ideas for future travel. Japan used to be so expensive but with currency adjustments over the last few years, it has become more accessible… Hope you get to do another trip – if so, outside of Tokyo is where the beauty lies…
Peta
Ohhh, I can’t wait to go to Japan! Jeff is suddenly eager to go also, so it may actually happen if we can get our calendars in order. The Nakasendo is on our list, and your experiences in these smaller towns are so inspiring. Back in my 20s, I was really into Japanese literature and Edo period history, and it would be so fun to find myself in those milieus. Very fun reading about your time there, and what a treat to overlap with Josh and Ana!
Hi Lex! For sure if you studied Japanese literature, you will have another layer of appreciation that would make travel to this region all the more interesting. Nagoya becomes a must stop, and of course Nara / Kyoto as well. But if you have time to explore beyond the cities, there are just so many opportunities to discover the “real” Japan in smaller historical towns. Check out our description of Bikan in IG, that too would be an interesting destination…
Ben
I’d be interested in the vintage kimonos too. The fabrics must be beautiful.
Well then Temple Markets are for you. If you ever go to Japan, head there. The vintage kimonos are not only beautiful, but they are extremely affordable… Ben is toying with the idea of “repurposing” one of these into a cooler, modern jacket that would be easier to actually wear than the full length Kimono…
Peta
I love this post about the Nagoya Temple market and the Nakasendo Trail. I’m in the middle of planning a trip to Japan in October (& Bali before that). This will be my third time in Japan, and I am also looking into two other walks (to do small sections of). So this one is now on my radar. And the antiques and textiles at that market look fabulous! I’m so enamored of the pants you bought there! Is the Temple Market only at certain times? I also love the idea of using the transport services. After last year’s walk on the Via Francigena in the heat of July, I’ve vowed never to carry a huge pack again!
Cathy,
Let me address the specific practical considerations here:
Re transport, wherever you are staying (hotel, ryokan etc), you can ask them to set up the shipment to your next destination. THis being Japan, there is NO concern about either the luggage making it there, or anything going amiss… If you are not staying at a hotel or Ryokan, but stay at an airbnb, go to any larger hotel nearby and they will usually help making this transfer of your luggage happen… (we prefer to ship from hotel to hotel, so that there is always someone on the receiving end).
About temple markets: They are usually only once a month. However, there are MANY temple markets, so you just need to google your way through a calendar of temple markets in the cities you’ll be visiting. There are plenty in TOkyo, Kyoto, Nagoya etc… But yes it takes some calendar planning so that you work your calendar around the temple markets.
SImilar to temple markets are the “matsuri”. these are special holidays that are often regional so it’s always a good idea to check out what matsuri might be happening in the reigon you’l be visiting.
Hope you get to make it to a temple markete as they are just so fun!
Bon Voyage!
Peta & Ben
Hi Peta and Ben, Thank you for all that information about the transfers and the temple markets. I’m so excited about returning to Japan and definitely want to visit some temple markets and do some walks. I wish I got replies emailed to me; I came back to visit to see if you’d replied; otherwise I never know that you have.
Thanks again for all the info!
Cathy
Oh I loved this! It brought back so many memories. We went to the Tenjin-san market in Kyoto and it looks very similar. Peta I love your new pants, and also the way the two Japanese women were dressed in red and yellow. I agree – Japanese women have style!
We wanted to walk some of the Nakasendo but hadn’t spared enough time so instead walked the trail from Kurama to Kibune, a little way out of Kyoto. Just lovely.
Alison.. Yes on an earlier trip we wento to the Tenin-san market and loved it. Had a totally different feel to this one though which is way smaller. They each have their own distinctive character.
I am still enjoying wearing my pants from the market and I always get a lot of compliments.
Don’t know of the trail from Kurama to Kibune , but will check it out next time we are in Kyoto (hopefully).
Peta
Your interactions with the people you met at the temple market sound very heartwarming, and your descriptions of the things you saw in the country remind me of my own trip back in 2016. (I can’t believe it’s been eight years!) Japan is fascinating in so many ways: the architecture, the designs, the food, the patterns, the natural landscape, the culture… and you managed to capture some of the country’s most irresistible qualities that make us all want to see more.
Bama, the interactions with locals are always highlights of our travels for sure. We have found Japanese people to be very helpful and easy to interact with. Of course having Ben who speaks Japanese is helpful, but language for me, has never been a barrier to communicating with locals pretty much anywhere.
Ah yes Japan is special, for sure! Can’t wait to return…
Peta