France holds a lot of history for both of us. Ben was born in Paris and spent most of his childhood in France. We have been traveling here together for years, at least a dozen times, never tiring of it, always discovering something new.
An opportunity presented itself in the form of an unusual home exchange. Introducing Debbie and Reid. A few years back we stayed in their gorgeous home in San Francisco for a week. And then, they came to Sri Lanka and we got to meet them and had a lovely dinner together before we left Sri Lanka on travel, while they stayed on in our home for two weeks. To “credit back” the extra time they spent at our home in Sri Lanka, they mentioned their other home base, which is located in the South of France, and while they don’t typically do home exchange with the French house, they kindly offered it up as an option for another week of exchange some day. Peta’s ears pricked up, as Josh and Ana had very recently told us that they would love to go to France with us! And so this is how it all came to be….
We all wake up early in our apartment in Llanca on Spain’s Costa Brava. A taxi will be taking us the hour’s drive across the “border” into France, where we have booked tickets on the train to Sete, near Bouzigues, our destination. The road winds around and up and down hills hugging the coastline between Spain and France, affording good views until finally we arrive at the little train station… That’s when we find out that the French railroad workers are on strike. there is no train!!
Ben being always the find-a-solution kind of guy, figures out that there is a bus going North. We hop on that one with all our luggage and yet another. This and that logistical hoop, and voila, we are picked up by Debby, our home exchanger-now-friend, who drives us to their European home ~ Bouzigues.
Bouzigues
Bouzigues is a small quiet unassuming seaside village which has retained its low-key character and is one of two oyster capitals in France. The bay is blessed with natural protection resulting in a low level of tide and a high density of salt, making it propitious for oyster farming.
The house was converted from an old “grange”, a barn. The natural stone you see in the front was uncovered during the restoration process, as it had been hidden behind a layer of plaster.
When we think of Southern France, this is the kind of place we visualize ~ manifested!
Debbie and Reid generously welcome us to their home with a “boatful” of fresh oysters in their outdoor kitchen area. These were our first oysters in Bouzigues, and we continued to eat oysters every day of our stay. It doesn’t get fresher than this!
A good omen for the start of our stay in France. Josh is a definite foodie and as you can see, he is pretttty happy with this offering!
Oyster farming is a thriving part of the culture and economy of the “Etang de Thau” (the lagoon between Sete and Bouzigues, in the Languedoc region). The picturesque town of Bouzigues produces the most sought after oysters in Europe, because of the higher density of salt in the lagoon, they are considered tastier than their ocean produced counterparts.
When your home exchange hosts welcome you with a lemon chicken tagine, you know you have some good karma going for you…. Reid is a terrific cook and after being on a several hour bus ride, this meal and the warm welcome, is a total game changer. Merci Reid and Debbie.
Josh and Ana ~ finally in France. We have Ana to thank for manifesting this trip!! Ana is a fabulous addition to our family and it is lovely having time with them as a couple.
This was our favorite place to chill in the house ~ a huge upstairs patio overlooking the garden
Hmmmm I think I like this lifestyle. I could spend more time here!
There are the classically French architectural details such as the doors, the wrought iron balconies…..
There are multiple former barns converted into residences that make us drool.. This one is our favorite. We wouldn’t mind having this as a piet a terre…
Bouzigues has two small beaches, perfect for cooling off in the heat, a short walk past the row of seafood restaurants which hug the bay.
This is what the Bouzigues “water front” looked like, at the turn of the last century…
The World Cup is in full swing. When we were in Spain staying with our Belgian friend Kris (and Rasa), we watched the Belgium vs France game together on the beach. We found our inner Belgians and rooted with panache for Belgium.
But now, the final is between France and Croatia, while we are in France!!! The excitement is building…. and even the laid back Bouzigues is showing signs of the world cup fever that has of course taken over France.
Hours before the final, we are staking out our watching spot at one of the waterfront restaurants; locals are enthusiastically dusting off their French flags to adorn their balconies.
Scanning our suitcases for anything red, white or blue (French flag colors) we are set for the World Cup Final game to begin.
ALLEZ LES BLEUS!!!! Definitely fun to be in the country of one of the World Cup Finalists for the World Cup Final! What fortuitous timing.
VICTORY!!!! Celebration in the streets, Bouzigue-style, with a tractor… ALLEZ LES BLEUS!
Too much fun!!!
Pezenas
We use Bouzigues as a base, and with our rented car, drive to a few nearby towns to get the fuller flavor of the French South. This is not the “South of France” that most foreigners think of .. (such as Nice, Cannes, Avignon etc).. This is a way more laid back, low key region of the South which is thankfully not typically as over-run by tourists in the Summer months.
Our destination for our first day trip? Pezenas.
Pezenas is not just any beautiful gem of a town. It is famous in France and for lovers of French literature because it was in Pezenas that France’s counter to Shakespeare, namely Moliere, blossomed, writing countless plays and satires in the late 1600s. Many of his satirical plays are core to French students’ literary education, but in the English speaking world, it is perhaps his play “Cyrano de Bergerac” which has earned him recognition. Louis XIV invited Moliere to take up residence in Pezenas where a theater was built for the very purpose of hosting Moliere’s plays.
Follow me… let’s check out the charming streets of Pezenas!
Enjoying the shades of green shutters and arched doorways, cobblestones, which grace this town.
Ana adding a few words of French to her Spanish, Italian, Portuguese repertoire. “Mais oui, I could live here too”.
A girl’s gotta have a decent hat…
Pezenas is full of “hotels particuliers”, 17th Century urban mansions that have been converted into boutiques, galleries and restaurants.
I (Peta) am so appreciative that Josh has developed such a strong appreciation for the arts, culture, architecture, painting etc. His music event production business in the U.S often incorporates and gives a space for highlighting the talents of local painters. Makes me proud and I know trips like this one continue to feed into his appreciation for the arts.
Mais oui, I could live there too! This is a part of France I know nothing about, and how I love traveling there with you four – as well as your delightful hosts/home-exchangers. The smiles are so genuine and happy. I can feel the French sunshine. Thank you!
Pamela, so pleased you enjoyed taking this little trip with us. Debbie and Reid really went out of their way to make our stay special. The house was the perfect base for exploring the region and spending time in the little town of Bouzigues.
Thanks for the lovely feedback,
Peta
looks great!
Thanks Tanja.
What a marvellous opportunity to stay in a beautiful home and base yourself there for a while. I love Ana’s hat. Did she buy it?
It really was the perfect home to spend a week in, although we all agreed would could happily have spent way longer there.
Ana did not buy that hat, too bad, because it really looks great on her!
Peta
How lovely that you were in France for the World Cup final, it must have been such a great party. Beautiful place for a family reunion 😄
Gilda we really lucked out to arrive two days before the World Cup Final and to actually be in France with them being in the Final was really an unplanned bonus. (My first husband from South Africa was a professional soccer player when we were in our twenties, so I have watched a LOT of soccer in my time and all our kids love it too.)
Great family reunion spot. For sure!!
Peta
So beautiful! We’ve been doing a lot of traveling in Mexico, but we really need to cross over the ocean and get to France… also Spain and Portugal. I love the history. What a wonderful experience you had! Isn’t it amazing how connections are made, and how they create more opportunities?
That is exactly right. Being open to home exchange (because it is of course not everyones cup of tea) has led us to be in all sorts of places we would not have been otherwise and to meet such likeminded people as Debbie and Reid. Generally we have found that home exchangers all have a passion for travel and are sufficiently relaxed about “stuff” that they can feel comfortable welcoming “strangers” into their homes.
France, Spain, Portugal all await you!!!
Peta
You all look so happy, relaxed, and stylish! – and it’s no wonder in these beautiful little towns. Combining travel with family, and feeling good about where you are staying all make for an extra-special trip. Love all the street views in particular and the way you all are casually scattered about within those scenes!
Well thank you Lex! We did an amazing amount in one week and yet, we had no stress as we had plenty of chill time as well. We do not actually travel with anyone other than our adult kids… And when we do it really is an extra special time and it always works for all of us!
Yes, we do prefer unposed photos if possible… and we got some really good ones here. It was so much fun looking through all our photos in order to write the post.
Peta
Early last year we stayed in a southern French village. A great way to see that part of the country. Glad it worked so well for you too.
Thanks Peggy. One really cannot go wrong with most of France. We have always had amazing trips be it to Brittany, Normandy or the South. So much still to discover……
Peta
I hate computers! Just wrote you a long note about how much I love this post aqnd the computer went blotto and dumped it into the universe – not going to repeat it, but I really love this post – it is my favorite of every one you’ve posted. Every photo, every caption, every bit of history – love it all!
Hate when that happens too…!!
So let me get this straight ~ after taking you with us to Viet Nam, the desert of Rajistan (Pushkar), the rice fields of Bali, the fishing town of Essaouira in Morocco, or the majestic temples in Myanmar, this trip to France is your favorite ever?? Wow…..
Stay tuned for the sequel, coming up soon… (It gets even better…)
Ben
I’m a simple girl – and just realized that my original comment was sent to you as well.
Oh goodie, going to find it now.
Peta
So lovely! Thanks for sharing. I love seeing what you find off the beaten (touristy) path. The world is full of so many beautiful places/experiences and you are adept at finding and showcasing them.
Deb
Thanks Deb that is a tremendous compliment. We’ll take it!!!
B&P
You had me at that tagine! Ahhhh..magnifique! What a beautiful village and region you lucked upon. (Though I must say that my corner of French paradise this summer, Valbonne, though in much-busier-Provence, was equally charming 😉
Hahhaha… and there will be more tagine coming up as after France we were in Morocco! We do not know Valbonne, but you really can’t go wrong. Any place in France is beautiful, the food is great, the landscapes, the light, the people….
P&B
We had the chance to visit the south of France a few years ago and quite enjoyed it. Of course, we were hitting the more touristy places and didn’t have the benefit of off the beaten path and some locals to give us a welcome – you’ve done well.
Well thank you Dave. We really love France and it seems no matter how many times we return we always find something new and enjoy all over again, but especially those smaller towns which retain so much beauty, authenticity and history. I would consider living there one day, but too many bread and pastry temptations to be had hahaha.
Peta
All beautiful. Thank!
Thanks for stopping by to read us.. Glad you enjoyed.
Peta
What a beautiful life you have created together. You can feel the love & enjoyment captured in each & every photo you shared. Thanks you for sharing your travels, off to look up this area!
Lynn thank you for your enthusiastic comments. It is good to know that our love and joy shows through in the photos. It was a very magical week!! Just looking through all our photos made me feel so happy…
Such a great region!
Peta
Every one of your posts I think is your best, but THIS one is the BEST – and every one of the photos in this post is my favorite – until I see the next photo and then IT’s my favorite! What a serendipitous exchange you have with Debbie and Reid – there aren’t any US barns like theirs. The stone on its exterior is gorgeous.
And the oysters! Maybe I could learn to like oysters. i know I could learn to love Bouzigues – of course, I’d have to learn to pronounce it, but maybe you’ll help.
So for my favorite photo – the one of Josh and And sitting on the patio. No, the one of Peta and Josh in front of the turreted building in Pezenas. No, the one of all four of you on the stairs of that magnificent hotel particuliere. No, the one of Peta and Ben on the cobblestone street. No, the one of the chicken tagine. The one with the hats. The one with the archway looking up the twisty little street. The one with the boAT of oysters – (maybe not that one.) Ugh! I can’t decide!
All, beautiful – what a wonderful trip to the south of France. Thank you!
Hahahaha Sharon you are too funny!! Love love your enthusiasm for this post. Meeting Debbie and Reid by exchanging homes has been a pleasure.
The first time I ever ate oysters, in Paris, the whole restaurant watched. I mean, to a French person it is ridiculous that I would never have tried oysters until I was an adult! I liked them so much that I ate too many in the months that followed (in the U.S) and that put me off. Until I tried these again. SO fresh and SO thin, they had a great flavor and again I was in love with oysters.
To pronounce Bouzigues – Boo Zeeg. Easier than in print!
Thanks!! I love all those photos too… it was so hard to choose which ones to use, we have SO many great ones.
Peta
What a sweet little interlude that week must have been. Your pure enjoyment of all the people involved and the place is obvious. They’re beautiful towns, and that place you stayed just sumptuous.
Oh Alison, it was glorious. And this post is only the FIRST part of it. More to come… It was all just magical. From the house, to the company, to the environment.
Thanks for stopping by…
Peta
great pics!! love the one of josh in the alleyways
YAY!!! Thanks for reading and for leaving a comment.
SO glad you like the photos.
I love that one too!!
xoxox
Moma
They have a style all of their own, these French villages, don’t they? Pezenas looks particularly charming. I just need to keep traveling along the coast….. 🙂 🙂
Jo, you are exactly right! One can never tire of these villages and there are SO many of them, each with it’s own character and food specialties. Keep going, but it will take a while to get there…. so worth it!
Peta
We went on a cycling holiday through this area many, MANY years ago. I remember Pezenas and Sete but I don’t think we went through Bouzigues. It looks gorgeous.
Anabel, that must have been fabulous. It probably has not changed THAT much. That’s the great thing about French towns. Bouzigues is very local, I think we were amongst a small handful of foreigners. Many French folk will come a long way to this area specifically for the oysters.
Peta
Ooo… la, la! What’s not to love about France?! We’ve haven’t been to this area you’re describing but we have been to Aix, Arles, Orange, etc., and fell madly in love with the entire area, especially, Aix. We need to return one day sooner than later, so I’m keeping these suggestions in mind for future adventures!
Exactly!! France delivers every single time!
We love Aix ~ gorgeous city. And we did go back to Arles for a short stroll with Josh & Ana. All of these cities you mention are not that far from Bouzigues, so it is within the same general area.. Not exactly, but close enough. And Montpellier, the largest city is within easy reach from Bouzigues and is also a very interesting city and the train comes from there to Sete which is right across the bay from Bouzigues.
Peta
Y’all certainly know how to live fabulous human lives! Love dem oysters!
Well thank you kind sir. Yes we do our best to optimize the short human life span.
Ben
oooooOOOOOOO I’m soooooo jealous (I know, I know jealousy is not becoming . .. ) what a wonderful travel-log with Josh and Ana (not to mention Ben). I’ve always wanted to live in France.
You tweaked a distant memory – I was just out of college and spent time in France. Part of it was living with a French family. It was December and the mother got a turkey and a CASE of fresh oysters from her work as a year-end perk. She then went out of town leaving me and the Grandmother to eat a case of oysters before they went bad. The first several servings were delicious but after eating almost 1/2 a case I never wanted to look another oyster in the shell . . . ever again.
Love your caption under Josh’s picture!
Judith thanks for your delightful comments, which we both so enjoyed reading!! Love your oyster memory. Too funny!! Bet that grandma had no trouble finishing the case.
But thank you most of all for your comment re the caption under Josh’s picture ~ you caught me in a moment of severe momma pride for the person that my son is.
Peta
Not only an astounding home exchange but to share it with your son and partner a bonus filled with joy. Your photos exude happiness. Such a delight to read of your time together.
Thanks Sue for your lovely words. You are exactly right. Win, win all around. The week went fantastically well. We did a lot and yet, there was no stress and plenty of chill time, good food and fun. It WAS an absolute delight. So memorable!
Part 2 coming up soon….
Peta
Oh, what a lovely place…and even richer, I’m sure, shared with Josh and Ana. Your photos are so artistic and capture so well the fun that you four had together. And the oysters! You know how I love oysters. 🙂
Thank you Laurel ~ especially on the compliment on the photos. Ah yes, the oysters… I think you would be in oyster heaven! Absolutely perfect to be there and to share this time with Josh and Ana.
Peta
~~~~~~~~YES!
visualize ~ manifested! exactly what I imagined France to be. NO Paper Plates for them!
beautiful.
OOOmmmmgggosh, those oysters.
Your son and his wife are adorable….as you are, my dearest Peta.
One is richer for clicking into your universe. xxxx
Kim, you are always so complimentary and enthusiastic. It is so much fun to read your comments. Thank you!
Peta
Your current blogs are reading like fairy tales! The locations and the people (including the four of you) are fabulous, so well-dressed and happy. I love the natural stone and exposed brick in the buildings, and the outdoor spaces to eat and drink, of course. When I was young, my parents would take my brother and I to the Languedoc a couple of times for our summer vacation. I can’t say I remember much of it, except for the flamingos. I’ll have to go back one day.
And, how nice of your home exchangers to offer up their European dwelling! What a fantastic chance to explore the area in more depth. I assume they were OK with you bringing guests? It’s something that we often consider during longer house sits. And, we have had my cousin and her husband visit us in California in the past. I’m looking forward to having my parents over one of these months/years, during a house sit in the US! 🙂
PS: I don’t see a button (anymore) that I can click on to make sure I don’t miss your reply to my comment in my inbox… Maybe that’s not needed anymore? I can’t remember.
Liesbet thanks for all your interesting feedback.Yes, of course we checked with our hosts about four of us coming and they were delighted to be able to accommodate a “family reunion” of sorts. When they stayed in our home, they brought along their travel friends, a couple from Antwerpen, Belgium! This couple do not do home exchange, but they invited us to stay in their home at some point, in Belgium. Thought you would be interested to hear that, as a fellow Belgian….
Not sure about the button.. we had some issues with features of the blog going MIA. At some point we will try to reinstate that if it is not working, when we can figure it all out haha.
Peta
I hope you take the Belgians up on their offer one day, Peta. Antwerp is a great city to base yourself in. Maybe we can all time to be there one summer? Mark and I will have to house sit there, since my parents sold their home and moved into a one-bedroom flat.
The “problem” with the button missing is that I have to come back to this post (or refresh it in my browser) to read your reply. I hate it how things constantly change on our blogs without our doing. And, it is almost impossible to revert it back where we want and like it without external help. Technology!!
Your photos make me want to step into the image with you. I’m convinced there isn’t a corner of France that isn’t a jewel for discovery (double negatives are always confusing but I think it works here 😏).
It’s even more special that you got to share it with Josh and Ana.
Thanks for introducing me to two Southern France gems. You all look so wonderfully happy. I particularly like the last photo of you and Josh in that beautiful setting.
well, I’ll be Peta! Was this a trip or what?? I sooo enjoyed it thank you and it makes me want to visit there. Simply gorgeous photos and those oysters!!!!!! Thanks for sharing this with us!
Thank you for showing me parts of the globe that are less traveled. I find myself wishing we had not sold our home in Sedona, AZ, as this home exchange business sounds fascinating! I can see why you are so proud of your son Peta.
Yes, there are still off-the-beaten-path places in France, even in the South. Thanks for reminding me. Looks like the best of both worlds for the World Cup. You could be there when the home team wins, but avoid the obligatory major pandemonium in the cities/major tourist areas.
France has many gems to discover that are off-the-beaten-path. It was great fun to be in such a small sleepy little place when France won the World Cup… definitely would have been a way more hectic crazy experience had we been in a big city. It was perfect, you are so right!
Peta