After spending about two weeks at the beach in Arambol, Goa, we are ready for a change of pace and scenery. We are eager to head inland, to our next destination for a week, in the countryside of Southern Goa.
A year ago, an Indian family from Goa did a home exchange with us and stayed in our home in Sri Lanka, and loved their stay. Now is our opportunity to do the reciprocal visit and stay in their home, a restored colonial guesthouse in rural Goa.
We have been looking forward to our stay in the countryside, as we know that rural life will provide an interesting contrast to Goan beaches and we are very ready to be immersed in nature and tranquility. We have read the history of the guesthouse, which has gone through a painstaking restoration process from being almost in ruins, to restored to it’s former glory.
Situated on the Konkan coast in Western India, Goa was, for several centuries, one of the major trade centres in India. It attracted influential dynasties, seafarers, merchants, traders, monks and missionaries since its earliest known history. Before the end of the 16th Century, the Portuguese set up a base in Goa to consolidate their control of the lucrative spice trade. As a result of this wealth, Goa’s region saw the emergence of a wealthy class that built homes and mansions to reflect their economic and political status. Goa remains today, the wealthiest state in India.
The Portuguese rule over Goa lasted over 450 years! Surprisingly, it is only as late as 1961 that the Indian Army invaded Goa and absorbed the state into today’s India.
The drive from Arambol beach takes us past numerous fields and lakes, and once when we pass by the landmark 400 year old church, we know that we are almost there.
It is very interesting that the state of Goa is predominantly Catholic (as a result of the influx of the Portuguese in the early 16th Century) and there are large churches everywhere.
The setting: a Goan heritage manor
If you enjoy architecture and interior design, as we do, take a stroll with us inside this Colonial Portuguese manor. It is situated on a sprawling 1.5 acre property that’s peppered with fruit trees, flowering bushes, and overlooks a seasonal lake which attracts a rich bird life. The restoration took three years, with attention to original design details, in order to be as authentic as possible.
Each day, either in the morning and at dusk, we walk down the driveway and across the road to enjoy all the animal and bird activity which occurs on the lake.
In order to explore the region and all the small villages nearby, we get a ride into Margao, which is the closest city, to rent a motorbike. Driving a motorbike in an Indian city can be rather hair raising. We are of course used to navigating the roads in Sri Lanka, but India has other additional elements such as cows in the middle of the road, and the omnipresent dust. This is where my shawl comes in handy….
So now that we have wheels, we off exploring beyond the lakes and the nature in our immediate vicinity. Ahh, we see two mani puri stands on the side of the street, in front of a playground and screech to a halt. Mani puri is our absolute favorite Indian street food: crackly small “cups” filled with potato and sweet and spicy sauces. Each vendor has his own recipe and there are many a times in Sri Lanka, when we wish we could have mani puri, therefore, we are of course going to eat this dish from both vendors!
India is always colourful. In every way. But Goans take this to a new level, as Goan modern architecture is known for boasting radically bright colours. As we whizz through the countryside we are surprised by the contrasting colours (purple, pink, turquoise, orange) and as well, the large size of many of these ornate homes.
Unexpected deep dive into historic architectural heritage
Goa has a rich architectural heritage and has treasures which date back beyond the state’s Portuguese occupation. We had not realised that there was such a concentration of historic mansions in the villages near the guesthouse.
We both appreciate and enjoy architecture. When we lived in Nicaragua, we designed two houses and we spent several years of our lives creating a business dedicated to the construction of eco housing solutions. This led us into a discovery of a broad range of architectural achievements from the grandiose (in Colombia) to the impact oriented, simple housing in Ecuador. We hired and worked with architects to address both the low end (primarily) and high end of the bamboo housing market, and this gave us quite a lot of exposure to additional insight into the world of architecture.
I (Peta) grew up with an engineer father who taught architecture and design at University level, and this had an impact on me. As children we were given rolls of large architectural plans to use for our own drawings on the back (recycling), but I was fascinated by the side that had the architectural detailed designs on them.
So we are off to see what comes our way…
After a while, our curiosity gets the best of us, and we decide we should try and see the inside of one of these large heritage buildings.
Reunion: nomadic girls, now 3
Another motivation for choosing Goa and for using our exchange now is that our close friend Brook is arriving in Goa with her baby Jaia, around the same time as we are there. We make plans to reunite. We met Brook eight years ago when we lived in Nicaragua at the same time and have had “reunions” in 5 different countries over the past several years, see (below), as well as in Chicago and Sri Lanka.
In India: http://www.greenglobaltrek.org/2014/11/a-week-in-bombay-with-brook.html
In Vietnam: http://www.greenglobaltrek.org/2016/10/slipping-comfortably-into-life-in-hoi-an-viet-nam.html
In Puerto Rico: http://www.greenglobaltrek.org/2016/06/a-fellow-nomad-in-puerto-rico.html
After a few days of soaking in the countryside together, we decide that since we are not too far from the beach, Jaia should have her first swim in the Indian ocean. So we head to Majorda beach, Southern Goa.
We are Americans who recently moved to the Azores of Portugal. While we probably won’t be moving around to other countries, we so love reading about your adventures.
Hi Brad
Welcome to our Green Global Trek! Thanks so much for the lovely compliment. We both LOVE Portugal (you can read our posts by searching in the archives). Good luck in you new home country.
Peta
Thank you, Peta. I will look for your Portugal posts. Thanks for sharing your life with us.
Obrigado Brad! We enjoy sharing our adventures, so glad you are enjoying our Green Global Trek.
Peta
P.S. Ben says please do have a Pastej de Nata for him.
What a wonderful start to my morning, reading this post and sipping my latte! Thank you Peta and Ben. I always look forward to your posts.
Deb
Thank you Deb, that is such a very lovely compliment! While you are sipping your latte, we are probably nodding off to sleep 🙂
Peta
Fascinating background on the renovation of the guest house, I definitely see the Portuguese influence. The apartment in Porto that we live in when in the city, has very similar stenciling. I didn’t know the Portuguese settled in the region. So interesting, I love, love, love history, one of the best aspects of traveling.
I love the picture of Ben playing the little flute with the Jaia on his lap. So sweet.
The Portuguese had such a widespread influence in the region, from not only architecture, but Catholicism, food and even language as today the Goan dialect is a mixture of Hindi and Portuguese.
Also, interestingly there is a special convention between Portugal and the State of Goa, whereby descendants who can prove their Portuguese heritage with family records (for example, many Goans have the last name of De Silva, a Portuguese last name) are allowed to apply for a Portuguese/European passport. And many have dual citizenship between India and Europe as a result.
Given your interest in Portugal and history, we invite you to check out our archives for Sri Lanka where we live, as Galle Fort (a UNESCO heritage city near to us), was a Portuguese strong hold as well.
Ben & Peta
Absolutely fascinating. The architecture in Goa is amazing and you two look like sisters. That house exchange was beautiful. Can’t even imagine the time, effort and $ it must have taken to restore.
Thanks Steve. Chuckling over the sister comment, but I’ll take it.
Re the restoration of the house, the stories that the owner shared with us confirmed a truism of renovation, namely that it took twice as long and cost twice as much than they had anticipated or expected. They were dedicated to the task and stuck with it through all the hassle and inevitable problems that cropped up. The net result though is that they were able to offer their two daughters an idyllic rural upbringing, and as well open a guesthouse to Indian and international visitors, essentially, reinventing themselves professionally from their former lives as banker and operations manager in Bombay.
Peta & Ben
Oooh, Mani Puri, I just drooled on the Android watching that nice cook make one for you. I wonder if he would deliver to the wraparound veranda. Or is there such a thing as too much pleasure?
The problem with Mani Puri, is that it is all about the crackly outer shell, so it does not hold well over time. One needs to eat it immediately, as we discovered when we did buy them to bring back to the house to eat with Brook. From crackly wonder to mushy mess haha.
Peta
Honest to God, Peta, I am in awe of the life you lead! All I can say is thank you for sharing it with us through your blog. You truly are inspiring!
Ann thank you so much for such kind and lovely words. I feel very flattered by your comments.
Peta
Those long patios have me drooling, Peta. To walk through them with the light streaming in, but sheltered from the sun’s rays looks heavenly. 🙂 🙂
We love those long patios… It’s so fun to be able to easily go outside from the inside at numerous different points. I love houses that blend the interior with the exterior in a seamless way.
Peta
How beautiful that home is. It must’ve taken so much love and effort to get it to that stage. And how lovely to spend time in the countryside like that. I feel myself chilling by osmosis!
When the family originally bought the house, they had planned to restore it into a family home. Once it was finished however, they realised way too big for them and that is when they converted it into a guesthouse. It still has the feel of a family home though which is a good part of the charm. It did take a lot of love and effort to get it to where it is now.
So glad you enjoyed our chill spot!
Peta
What a wonderful place to stay! I’m so glad they upgraded the flooring though …
Yes it really was great. They pretty much upgraded everything. Although I have to say I am partial to mud floors. Once they are dry they can be “polished” and it is like walking on suede leather it’s so soft.
Peta
Loved this tour, Peta, with all that great old architecture! (The purple mansion!!! ❤️)
Your home-away-from-home on this visit is a treasure – although it was (in my opinion) a good decision to change the floors from the original cow dung 😉
I can’t believe (ok, yes I can!) that you would ask a homeowner if you can see their home. omg – I’ve wanted to do that so many times! You inspire me!! The chandeliers inside were completely unexpected.
I love wraparound verandahs and this design with doors leading onto the verandah at regular intervals really appeals to me – especially in a hot country.
Of course Joanne, it makes total sense you would love this post. The purple mansion is actually one of the newer homes. (Indian version of the McMansion).
Haha, it is WAY easier to ask someone if you can see their home in Asia, than in the U.S. (and I suspect Canada, or Europe)… as people are usually very proud of their homes and often very hospitable too and happy to show it off. And then again, I am not shy….I’m glad to inspire boldness…
In addition to the chandeliers there were many other surprising objects collected by various family members along their travels, such as tables from Spain, piano from England, beer mugs from Germany…
My favourite design element: the wrap around veranda. Followed by the high ceilings.
Peta
The renovation of the guest house has been beautifully done. I can see the strong Portuguese influences there. Do they speak Portuguese in Goa? So lovely that you were able to reunite with your friend again + her beautiful little girl. As always a great read , thank you Peta 🙂
Gilda, Portuguese was spoken in Goa during the 450 year rule by the Portuguese. Initially it was spoken by the missionaries, soldiers and tradespeople who resettled in Goa and then it expanded as the official language for all official and legal activities. Tidbits of the language became absorbed by the Indian population, resulting in the current Goan dialect which is infused with Portuguese vocabulary.
However, when the Indian army invaded Goa to take the territory back from Portugal in 1961, Hindi was made the official language once again. One interesting evidence of the declining incidence of the Portuguese language: the primary newspaper which was called “Oheraldo”, was switched from Portuguese language to becoming “The Herald”, now the dominant English newspaper in Goa.
So glad you enjoyed this post, thanks for your thoughtful comments.
Peta & Ben
Hi Peta, You have an amazing site filled with gorgeous photos. The home exchange is a wonderful opportunity to visit and become immersed in a new area. I like your words “nature” and “tranquility” used a few times throughout your story. The view from the guesthouse made me pause and take a deep breath. It looks like a large house, yet, appears to be very much a home. I did not know the history behind Goa. I look forward to reading more about your adventures!
Hi Erica,
Welcome to Green Global Trek! Thank you for the lovely compliment.
The guesthouse was initially built as a family home and then once they realised it was too big for them, they converted it into a guesthouse. It definitely retains that cosy charm of a home due to it’s relatively small size for a “boutique hotel”.
Peta
I am drooling over those magnificent homes and the happy, happy colors. I could spend hours on that long green porch just watching the day go by. My husband and I have talked ourselves into a few interesting homes over the years too (but none as elegant as the one you saw). We are always surprised and grateful when they say “yes.”
About the colourful McMansions… We were told that these large colour packed mansions are almost all owned by Indians with dual citizenship who often live and work abroad and come “home” for the holiday season. It is not exactly the image most people have of what India looks like!
Glad I am not the only way talking my way into a peek into other people’s interesting homes, haha. We have found that in Asia, many people will welcome foreigners in and are quite happy and or proud to show their house off.
Peta
Another exquisite visit, Peta, this time to Goa. Really enjoyed this, as I always do. Your adventures, your serene words, the colorful accompanying photos — such a comprehensive look at this world. I found the architecture interesting, especially the “before” photos of your guest house, and loved all the colorful buildings. I delighted in the video, with the skillful making of the mani puri, your vendor’s beautiful smile, and the heat and animation of the background. The visit to the beach with all the locals was fascinating and refreshing. Fun to see you and Ben with your friends, too, on this wonderful adventure.
Thank you Jet for the lovely feedback! The guest house actually had a lot of before and after photos, I wish we had taken more shots of those as it was very interesting to see the details of the restoration process.
So glad you enjoyed the video of the mani puri vendor. It was so delicious that we went back the next day. And of course we had one from each vendor again.
Peta
It was so interesting to learn about Goa being part of the Portuguese empire for 450 years. I have visited Portugal a couple of times, and it is such a beautiful country with a fascinating history. But I have never been to India. I enjoyed your discussion of the architecture, and the photos of the house where you are staying and of the historic mansion you toured.
Jude
Hi Dr Sock
Welcome to our Green Global Trek! We live in Sri Lanka, so India is just a hop and a skip away and here in Sri Lanka there is a UNESCO heritage fort city which was built originally by the Portuegese, so we are quite familiar with Portuguese architecture from the fort. We also loved our visit to Portugal a couple of years back ~ fell in love with the use of the azulejo tiling on the exterior of the homes and buildings.
Thanks for stopping by to read us and to comment.
Peta
Now I understand why Goa is the most affluent of the Indian states! Wow, those mansions. I had no idea this luxury was a part of India as well. The guest house you stayed at is amazing, but good thing they strayed a bit from the original floor design. 🙂
And, I remember Brook from a previous post – Jaia has grown a tad. Such a cute girl. When they move to Goa, you’ll be back! 🙂 Beautiful experiences, Peta. Thanks for sharing. And for showing us such a different side of India – architecture and peace wise.
Liesbet, we were quite surprised to see all these modern ornate mansions and for sure, this is not the picture that most people have of India in their minds.
Yes, Goa is the wealthiest state, but yet, there are wonderful heritage mansions all over India that one can stay in, particularly in the North in Rajasthan.
You are right, we may well be back to Goa to visit Brook, however, she is coming here soon for her visa run! So glad you enjoyed this post so much. Thanks for the lovely comments.
Peta
What a gorgeous home and how lucky you were to be able to stay there and enjoy it all. The high ceilings are wonderful.
We loved our stay at the heritage guesthouse, it was such a treat! The high ceilings reminded us of many of the houses in Granada Nicaragua where we used to live. It definitely gives a place such an airy open feel to have such high ceilings. Thanks for your comments
Peta
Coincidentally, I was just talking to a friend whose parents had immigrated from Goa to Canada about putting it on my travel list after reading your last post. This post, where you’ve talked about Goa’s history (especially its Portuguese influence) makes Goa all the more fascinating and the architecture is magnificent. The restoration of Goa’s ancestral homes looks like a labor of love as well as reflecting a deep appreciation of Goa’s heritage. I’m getting excited about planning some future travels! Anita
Anita given that you live in Portugal, I am sure it would be all the more fascinating for you to visit Goa and see the Portuguese architectural influences. There are some Portuguese architectural design elements that did not seem to make it to Goa, namely the tiles which are used in Portugal on the external part of so many buildings. We love that feature, but did not see it anywhere in Goa. Nor have we seen that anywhere else in the world. Thanks for your thoughtful comments.
Peta
Loved the bucolic scenes, those crazily colorful buildings, and following along as you reconnected with Brook!
I’ve been fascinated by Goa since I learned about it and its unique past (for India) and would love to see it myself some day.
I look forward to seeing how and where Brook settles in there!
Thanks Lex for the “bucolic” terminology! That is exactly what it was… So enjoying that some of you longer term blog readers, “know” and remember Brook, from earlier posts 🙂
Next post coming up is focused on Brook’s selection in India for a new home and her settling in…
Peta
Peta so much to love in this post but it is the feelings of closeness you share with Brook that ooze from your writing and photos. I remember her from other posts and Jaia now getting so big.
The architecture of the area is a wonderful surprise to me. The vibrant colours a tonic for the ongoing grey and snow which is having a challenging time admitting defeat to spring.
Wonderful article!
Sue we so enjoyed your comments… Brook is not the blog writing type, so whenever our paths cross we add another layer to her story. After all, it is not every day that a single American mom from Montana with a baby, boldly makes the move to India.
Yup, NOTHING grey about India that’s for sure! Love that line “snow is having a challenging time admitting defeat to Spring.” So enjoy how you write…
Thanks Sue! 🙂
Peta & Ben
In awe that you are living your dream, Peta!
And inspiring so many other women to live their dream, too!
I actually get a physical reaction looking at your photos, reading your words, watching the videos. ( I LOVE the details of the boy making your potato.)
OH, that bull going to take a dip in the water. YESSSSSSSSSSSS.
I’m In Love))
xxxx from Melting Minnesota.
Kim, I think you bring up an essential topic here. When I was a mom to three young boys, I felt like a bird in a cage. Not that I did not love them, that was never an issue for me ~ in fact I took being a parent very seriously. However, ultimately the life style that I have now, is the life I dreamed of. So… I definitely do not take it for granted and feel extremely grateful.
I am SOOO glad you enjoyed the video of our mani puri creation being made. I love standing next to a street vendor stall such as this and watch how they expertly go through a well rehearsed set of motions, almost like a dance, which create the final plate we get to eat.
xoxox hugs to you
Peta
Hi, Peta and Ben –
Your words and photos are always so inspiring. I love following along with your adventures!
Thank you so much for following the adventures and taking the time, to leave comments. We love reading your feedback ~ good “tip” for the time and work taken to create posts (as you know).
Wow. Somehow I think I could convince myself to stay in a place like that. Great restoration job.
And I would have never thought of India in terms of the housing that you’ve shown here. Maybe some old British stations here and there, but I never really considered the Portuguese.
Dave, I am so glad you mentioned the opulent houses and how most of us do not think of India in this way.
What we all need to remember perhaps is that India is a huge country and contrary to the stereotype, not everyone lives in a shack. In fact there is a huge middle class in India and what has been so interesting to US, is that every trip we take, to a different region, is so different to the other places we had been before.
Huge contrasts.
Peta
This sounds like such a wonderful excursion, meeting old friends, eating great food, exploring the architectural sites. Especially little Jaia in the ocean. Unfortunately, no matter what I do, I cannot see the photos. Must be on my end of the computer connection as your other followers apparently have no problem seeing the sites.
Sharon yes, it must be on your side, as we have not heard from anyone else that they are having issues. Is your problem just with this particular post?
Thanks for reading us and leaving your feedback.. Jaia just LOVES the ocean. Perhaps all kids do?
Peta
Loved the setting sun and waves of the sea. The old colonial houses look amazing. You’ve captured the old and the new, the chaos and the tranquil charms of Goa beautifully. 🙂
It was so much fun riding around on a motorscooter looking for heritage homes here and there in all the little villages. Not much chaos in this part of Goa, so I assume you are referring to the combination of our last post and this post. Still, Goa really does not register as chaos, compared with say Delhi or Bombay. Those places, yes, there really is chaos. Goa, we didn’t see it or feel that anywhere.
Peta
Peta, another fascinating post that transports your readers beyond the page. So many visuals and beautiful descriptions. I am very appreciative that you have both the inclination and the talent to share these extraordinary experiences. You truly are living in the moment.
Suzanne thank you for such a beautiful compliment. And for reading us and leaving your feedback, it really is the reward for the time and effort we put into creating each post.
Peta
The interior of that house is incredible. I haven’t spent near enough time in rural Asia, but maybe that area of Goa is where we should go. I am impressed with all those colonial buildings there.
We just loved being in that house for a whole week! The inside was so aesthetically pleasing and the outside environment so tranquil. Rural Asia is where it’s at! When one gets out of the cities and into the countryside, there is always magic to be found.
I do think you would both enjoy Goa, both the beach and the countryside.
Peta
I’m supposed to be writing my next chapter. And I’m supposed to be preparing for my next writing class, that I teach in two hours. And I should be doing a down dog or two, and eating a bite of breakfast. But I cannot take my eyes and mind away from your Inner Goan adventure.
What a renovation! What a gorgeous place/land to visit and stay for a while. Water Buffalos!!! And nothing like a reunion with a good friend and a sweet child.
All so positive and heart-affirming. Many thanks for sharing.
Now I’m late for everything else. 🙂 But it was worth it.
Haha Pam… Sorry about that.
Thanks for your lovely feedback, a good start to the day as we read your comments with breakfast here in Sri Lanka. The renovation was actually almost a total rebuild and interestingly it was supposed to be a home for the family and grandmother. Once it was built they realised it was way too big for them and that’s when the idea for a guesthouse started. Now they are well known in the area as a top heritage house stay ~ and it really does feel like you are staying in a gorgeous, aesthetically stunning home rather than a boutique hotel.
Peta
Stopping by to say thank you for the follow, Peta. I love seeing all the places you have traveled. You are so much more adventurous than I am. I do my travel armchair style these days. You really have done a great deal of travel and have a great traveling partner. I think that could make all the difference in the world. I’ve seen a good bit of the world but not to the degree that you have. I’ll keep popping by to check in on you. I don’t post very often anymore.
Lovely to have you stop by and read our Green Global Trek latest adventure. You can of course sign up to get the latest posts delivered directly to your inbox, should you wish to do so.
Oh yes, I could not have a better travel partner than Ben! Yes, that does make all the difference in the world. Fortunately we both have the travel bug and are pretty compatible all around and in our travel styles.
We are based in Sri Lanka, but we do travel a lot, both for Ben’s work and as well for our own learning and pleasure of being immersed in different cultures. We tend to travel slowly, not rushing from place to place, and often avoiding the touristic spots that draw the crowds. Welcome to Green Global Trek, and look forward to having you visit again.
Peta
A really beautiful post, Peta. I love the guesthouse you stayed in and also the peek inside the heritage building. The simple style of grandeur is so homely in a way that one wouldn’t think possible. The lady in the red sari on the beach had me wondering how she will get all the sand out of the yards and yards of gorgeous material. (My practical mind at work.) 😀 Brook and her sweet daughter were obviously so happy to meet up with you again. The photo of Ben playing the flute with Jaia on his lap is so precious.
Thank you for such lovely compliments. “Simple style of grandeur”… I like that, it is a very apt description of this type of interior decor.
Most Indian women if they go in the sea will be in their saris and they don’t really swim, more wade at the edges. But now, you had me thinking of that too… not the most practical, but I do love how her bright pink sari looks against the sand and the blues of the water.
I love that photo of Ben and Jaia too! So very sweet…
Peta
When I go to Goa (and I am going go to) I am going straight to Goan Heritage Manor! Wow! Lovely that Brooke and little Jaia were able to meet up. Love that image of Ben playing a tune for Jaia and the images of Jaia playing on the beach!
Lisa, do let us know when you are ready to go to Goa and we can connect you with Bennita who owns the beautiful guest house. It really is a very special place.. tranquil and the Portuguese architecture is worth the trip.
I love that photo of Ben and Jaia too!
Peta
Fascinating photos of the architecture. Both lovely and interesting. You really are wonderful at giving an overview of places with marvelous photography. I love traveling vicariously with you.
Peta,
Loved reading each of your posts on your wonderfully relaxing time in Goa so much they’ve inspired Steven and me to go to Goa next spring as part of an extended trip to Asia. How did you find the cottages you stayed in on the beaches, particularly at Palolem? Did you book them in advance or just turn up and find something you liked on the spot? We are definitely more of the ‘book ahead types’ and normally use booking.com but wonder if that’s the best way in this situation. Would love any hints you can give us!
We will also visit North Goa and the Panjim area in addition to wanting to just relax on the beach before heading to Bhutan and Tibet, etc.
BTW, we are starting our trip on March 1st in Sri Lanka so will of course reread your many posts on what was your home for so long. So happy to read that you’re both happily ensconced in Hoi An, a city Steven and I loved when we visited several years ago.
Continued happy and peaceful travels to you both,
Annie
Hi Annie,
Glad we inspired you to visit Goa. We found the cottages on Palolem online. In a case like this we look through a lot of the options in the price range we select (not too low, not too high) and then we read the reviews as well. We booked the first few days ahead of time and then after that selected a place in person and went back online to book it. Sometimes when you book ahead you can’t know things like how noisy it is for example. So we like to arrive knowing we don’t have to stress, but we prefer to have the flexibility to move after a few days in case things aren’t up to speed. However, if it is busy season and you like where you are staying, then of course it might get booked up.
Enjoy Sri Lanka.. and all of your trip. If you have any other questions, feel free to email me: petakaplan@hotmail.com
Thanks for the good wishes.
Peta