Nara, Japan ~ of Sacred Deer and Kaiseki.

GreenGlobalTrek Japan 62 Comments

A sacred deer’s tongue is suprisingly soft. Softer than that of a cow and definitely than that of a cat.

A deer slowly and gently licks my hand on our first day in Nara. We are off to a good start!

So what brings us to Japan? We ourselves are rather surprised to be here right now. We were in the U.S. visiting family, a trip which was supposed to last a month. We had return tickets to Viet Nam for the end of November.

Two things happened to change that course.

One, a life changing event which I am still processing and adjusting to. The other, an outbreak of dengue in Danang, which is 45 minutes away from our home in Hoi An. Some 6,600 people have been hospitalised and we read reports of numerous cases in Hoi An as well. Given that Ben has already had dengue once, that puts him in a category of high risk, as dengue can be fatal the second time around. And so, we did not board our return flights.

We extended our time in Chicago and then had to make a decision as to where to sit out the dengue epidemic. Ideally it would be in a place en route to Viet Nam that would help break up the return trip, be somewhere new, and not break the bank.

When two home exchanges respond quickly and positively for sequential dates, one in Nara, Japan and one in Kyoto, Japan rises to the top of our list of options. For one thing, Japan is very expensive, and for another, it is extremely hard to get home exchanges in Japan ~ we have tried a few times before with no luck.

Yes, it will be winter in Japan and we have just spent time in the bitter cold of Chicago. But, on the positive side, because of the weather, it is off season in Japan. That fact translates into relatively cheap airline tickets. That in conjunction with the two home exchanges, seals the deal.

Japan has always been a country we have wanted to travel to together. We did once have a 17 hour stop over in Tokyo, but that does not a trip make.

The key word here is “together”.

Prior to merging our lives, Ben already had an extended history with Japan. He majored in Japanese politics for his bachelors degree and did his masters with a focus on Japanese security issues. He moved to Japan in the eighties to do an immersive language course after his masters and thereafter got his first job in Tokyo instead of returning back to Washington D.C. where he previously lived.

This first job was a surprising fit for Ben’s background. He answered an ad in the Japan Times, for a French Defence company looking for a CFO for its Tokyo subsidiary ~ who spoke French, English and Japanese. He stayed with that European defence company for the next 20 years, in multiple countries, including a stint of 3 years as President of that very same European Defence group’s Japanese subsidiary. In all, he lived in Japan for five years. His son, Ezra, was born in Japan. In short, Japan has been an integral part of his adult life.

One of the highest motivators for both of us to be in Japan, is of course the cuisine. We know that most of our Yen will be spent on food. With cheap tickets, free accommodation, our culinary trip to Japan is finally happening now, over Christmas and New Year.“

Osaka where we land, Nara where we have our first home exchange and Kyoto are all within two hours of each other at the red marker. They are all in the Kansai region.

After landing in Osaka, we take a bus for an hour and a half to Nara, the ancient capital of Japan. It is almost midnight when we arrive at the bus station, tired and hungry and hoping to find an open restaurant before we take a taxi to our home exchange. We spot the lights of a restaurant not too far off, and within minutes Ben’s Japanese persona kicks in to gear and his language skills are immediately put to use. Soon we have plates of delicious mackerel, miso soup, shredded radish, rice and nori in front of us.

Our first home exchange ~ Nara

The house we are staying in, in Nara, is located in Naramachi, which is the old center of the Japanese imperial capital. As we step into our home exchange, we are immediately transported into a different aesthetic and culture.

The outside doors are made of thin strips of wood, and inside we discover an authentically restored traditional Nara home. Minimalist and elegant in its simplicity. Wooden floors, paper screens and sliding doors, tatami (woven straw) mats on the floors upstairs in the bedrooms, and a large tub in a tiny bathroom.

The front door of a traditonal Japanese home, is low by Western standards. Sliding wooden panels open directly onto the narrow street in front of the house.

The tatami room adjacent to our bedroom is a traditional multi purpose tatami room that can serve as a bedroom (futons are pulled out for the night), as a working space, when low folding desks are brought out from the closet, and as a traditional eating space (more typically done in ryokan, Japanese inns).

It is cold in Nara at this time of the year. The traditional house, quaint and oh so charming, is no match for the blistering weather. Only one recourse, or saving grace, is the deep bathtub with plenty of steaming hot water.

Naramachi – our neighborhood

When we awake on our first day in Nara, we are eager to discover our new neighbourhood and go in search of a traditional Japanese breakfast.

The streets are very narrow and have no side walks. There are few cars, most people are either walking or riding bicycles.
As we stroll through Naramachi’s streets, we enjoy the architectural and design elements of the houses that line the single lane streets ~ wooden doors and screens, stone, ceramics and tiled slate grey roofs.
Signs on the street look like modern street art to me (Peta). Ben explains that these are Kanji characters ~ one of three Japanese alphabets, comprised of 3,000 distinct characters inherited from the Chinese language.

Nara was the first permanent capital of the young Japanese Kingdom, in the 8th Century. Centuries later the capital moved to Kyoto and finally in the recent era, the capital moved to Tokyo. Before 710 CE when the Emperor chose to make Nara a permanent capital, it was a common practice for the capital to be moved to a new location whenever a new Emperor ascended to the throne.

There are many small attractive temples and shrines tucked in between the houses on our path.
This shrine has a small cemetery with a vista over Nara.
The wooden signage over many small restaurants and shops offers an introduction into the artistry of Japanese calligraphy.
Persimmon fruit looking very much like an art mobile, hanging to dry, outside a home. Dried sweet persimmon is a Nara delicacy for the New Year.

Kaiseki

Ben has always told me about the diversity of Japanese cuisine beyond what most of us know to be Japanese food, (sushi, ramen, tempura, soba, udon, sukiyaki), but nothing could prepare me for the variety of flavors and textures I experience during our first few days here in Nara, starting with our first breakfast.

One of the specialties of Nara, is an assortment of pickled vegetables. The Kansai region is renowned throughout Japan for its extensive use of mountain vegetables, both for pickling and marinating.
The chef in this small tucked away restaurant which we were fortunate to find, prepares each dish lovingly and mindfully. He has been doing the same thing in the same place for the last 32 years.
Ben is transported back to his many years in Japan with this traditional breakfast. Kaiseki, the Japanese equivalent of “haute cuisine” is a gastronomic treasure that is seldom found in the West. We return here each day of our stay in Nara because nothing could top this breakfast, which is different each day, always with multiple small dishes of alternating bold and subtle flavors, sweet and sour, soft and crunchy textures. And a great bargain, at 700 yen each ($7).
We surprise the chef by returning each day for his fabulous kaiseki breakfasts. We ask questions about the ingredients that we are unfamiliar with and how he prepares them, and he takes the time to show us his book of Japanese vegetables and dishes to help explain.
The ever changing daily tofu dish. Tofu is a specialty of the region, due to the high quality of the soil and water, perfect conditions for growing. We don’t usually eat much tofu, but the tofu in Nara, is something special. Creamy and silky, and infused with unusual ingredients such as cashews or sesame, and topped with sweet miso. It’s simply sublime.
We come across a restaurant devoted to featuring the best of Nara’s pickled vegetables. There is a tremendous variety of colors, textures and flavors. Some of the vegetables we can identify, and others are completely new to us.
Purple eggplant, bright pink radish, green spinach, yellow something?, green celery, brown mushrooms and seaweed, white daikon ~ a symphony of colors and tastes.

Yet another specialty of Nara is in their unique preparation of sushi. Persimmon leaves are used to wrap and preserve nigiri sushi (rice with a slice of raw fish) for three days. (This differs dramatically from the Tokyo version of sushi, which is the one that most Westerners are familiar with.) In fact, over the next few days in Nara, we TRY to find “normal” sushi, which we prefer to this preserved variant. But, fresh sushi is just not a thing here. Wrapped persimmon leaves sushi, now that’s a thing.

  • Carefully wrapped with leaves into little parcels of Nara style sushi.
Sake time!

Over the next few days we enjoy finding little specialty soba and udon restaurants. Many of them only have signs in Japanese.

As the sign on the right says, this is an udon spot.
Without a knowledge of Japanese it would be very difficult to know what kind of restaurant you are passing by… This is a soba place.
So many different types of soba dishes to choose from….
Soba with hot broth and mountain vegetables and “zaru soba”, cold soba (remains our favorite.)
Finally, no recounting of Nara food would be complete without mention of the all important mochi. Mochi is now a part of the Western vocabulary, but, as often happens, the mochi that is found in the West (filled with ice cream!) offers little resemblance to the real thing in Japan, which NEVER has ice cream. Mochi here comes in so many shapes and tastes, that it constitutes a universe in and of itself.

Nara’s Sacred Deer in their temple habitat

Nara is known for its magnificent set of temples and gardens and the sacred deer which roam freely within the gardens and pine forests in Nara Park. Legend has it that a Shinto wise man who became the founder of Nara, arrived in the area on his large white deer. The deer became regarded as an animal deity and remains to this day revered as such.

Basking peacefully in the winter sunshine.
Sweetest little fawn with spots and baby fur.
The park offers deer food wafers, which one can buy to feed the deer. As a result, many of the deer are fairly tame, at least enough to be touched. Still of course they are wild animals and need to be respected as such. During mating season, one has to be especially cautious as the males can get quite rambunctious.
Japanese deer are smaller than their Western counterparts.
Weather worn wooden prayer plaques and stone shrines at the entrance of Nara Park.
Ema are small prayer tablets made of wood, on which a personal wish or request is written. by visitors to the temple. Each temple offers a new ema design each year. (Remindful of the hand written notes which people tuck into the Western wall in Jerusalem.)

Todai-ji Buddhist Temple ~ A Unesco World Heritage Site

Of all the temples one must see in Nara, the most significant is Todai-Ji.

Its Great Buddha Hall houses the world’s largest bronze statue of the Lord Buddha. The temple also serves as the Japanese headquarters of the Japanese Kegon school of Buddhism.  This is germane to us as we seek to understand the differences between the school of Buddhism that is found in Japan, versus the “Buddhism we know”, i.e the Theravada form of Buddhism that is prevalent in Sri Lanka, but also in many of the Asian countries we have traveled or lived in ~Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, and Myanmar. Mahayana, on the other hand, is more common in Japan, but also in Tibet, China, Taiwan, Korea, and Mongolia. The Kegon school is one of the branches off the Mahayana lineage.

Theravada and Mahayana are two of the main schools of Buddhism.  Although there are many different types of Buddhism, most traditions fall into one of these two schools.

Theravada Buddhism came first. It focuses on the teachings of the Buddha through strict meditation and the Buddha’s Eightfold Path to Enlightenment. Theravada Buddhists seek to become an arhat or fully awakened beings. Becoming an arhat requires great dedication. In fact, it’s usually only attempted by monks.

Mahayana, on the other hand, teaches that enlightenment is available to all.

Deer congregating around visitors that have purchased deer treats en route to the temple.
It’s very cold when the sun goes behind the clouds, so we do our best to catch some sun rays while the sun is shining. Being that it is off season in Japan has its benefits with regards to way fewer tourists, but on the downside, it’s damn chilly!
The second gate before the temple is reached.
Until 1998, the temple was the world’s largest wooden building. According to records kept by Tōdai-ji, more than 2,600,000 people in total helped construct the Great Buddha and its Hall contributing rice, wood, metal, cloth, or labor; with 350,000 working directly on the statue’s construction.
The largest bronze statue of Buddha in the world. (In Sri Lanka, there are equally large statues, but none that are in bronze.) The construction feat of this massive bronze statue was unparalleled. In fact, the bronze statue project nearly bankrupted Japan’s economy, consuming a great amount of the bronze available in the country at the time.
The nearby small botanic garden, holds a beauty all its own, even though it is winter. We enjoy a leisurely stroll, and have the gardens to ourselves. Interesting to note the cultural practice of providing structural support in a conscious and methodical manner for those trees with large branches which might be in danger of breaking off.
Magical and peaceful

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62 thoughts on “Nara, Japan ~ of Sacred Deer and Kaiseki.”

  1. Pamela Wight

    I’ve just spent my Friday morning with you, and what a delightful time! I now know so much more about Japan than I ever did. The food and culture and housing and religion are all fascinating and seem quite different from my known New England and San Francisco Bay areas, as well as the European places I’ve visited. You do look cold, though – is heating harder to come by in the homes/restaurants/stores in Japan?

    The deer are so much smaller than those I’ve encountered all over the U.S. Deer have increased in population greatly with shortages of food for them now, and thus they come closer to highways and towns. Not domesticated at all, though, and once my guy and I, who trudged down the hill near our home to see what the large racket was, were almost speared by two angry male deer, fighting for a mate. Phew – a close one.

    Thank you for this marvelous photographic post.

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Pam, glad you enjoyed your morning with us in Nara. In answer to your question re heating… all the stores and restaurants are nice and toasty warm. Our home exchange was quite spacious and only had ceiling heaters in the bedroom upstairs and the dining room. Traditional houses here have insufficient insulation and none of them have central heating. We are now in Kyoto in our second exchange, also a traditional home, but this one has a space heater and a marvellous contraption called a Kontatsu ~ there is a heater under a low table which is on the tatami straw mats. Then there is a large blanket that covers the table and keeps ones legs and therefore whole body, gloriously warm.

      Yes, in Nara Park there are plenty of sign posts warning visitors to be careful of deer in the mating season (which is now) and of course even though the sacred deer appear to be tame, they are of course wild animals and therefore unpredictable with humans.

      Thank you for the compliment on this post.

      Peta

      Reply
  2. Christie

    Amazing food and places! Lucky you have Ben with you 😊, he helped you and us to understand more about the culture in Nara. I would be lost LOL
    Hope you’ve had a Merry Christmas, wishing you a Happy New Year!!
    Christie

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Christie, I could not imagine being in Japan WITHOUT Ben. Yes, having my own private tour guide and translator, is quite the treat! But then again, I am always lucky to have Ben with me.

      Having Japanese language skills as Ben does, has helped us tremendously with taxi drivers, in restaurants, getting directions in train stations, etc.. Most people have very limited English.

      Thanks for the good wishes, and to you as well.

      Peta

      Reply
  4. Yvonne Daniel

    A simply wonderful travel guide- at least in my book. You miss virtually nothing as you describe the food, housing, landscape, menus and such. The photos are outstanding.

    I think you should start writing a travel guide of the countries where you have lived. You really make an impression for your observations of the everyday happenings of each country.

    I can feel the cold just by looking at the pics. I do hope that yall will be very careful about returning to home base so that you totally avoid dengue fever.

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Well thank you so much Yvonne! People often ask us for travel tips and we do send them to selected blog entries, so I guess Green Global Trek, is a form of a “travel guide” of sorts.

      Thank you for the high compliments on the photos. I am pretty pleased with some of the ones in this particular post.

      Yup, by the time we get back, the dengue will hopefully be past history.

      Peta

      Reply
  5. John Robertshaw

    You do “full immersion” so nicely, you two! How great to have Japanese haute cuisine for breakfast, and into the bargain be able to learn from the master chef. As for Nara in mid-winter, I actually remember yearning for a massive white scarf like yours to stave off the deep chill. The Todai-ji Buddha set me right on that attitude though.

    Reply
  6. Janis

    What an adventure! We’ve never done a home exchange but I love the concept. I can’t think of a better way to explore a new area on a tight lodging budget… leaving more money to spend on the important things… like food! Your breakfasts look amazing. I’ve never been a fan of the traditional western breakfasts so the small bites of a variety of flavors looks like a perfect way to start your day. How fortunate that Ben speaks and reads Japanese. Just one question: other than staying in the steaming tub, how do you stay warm at night?

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Janis, not only does home exchange eliminate the cost of accommodation, but as well, it allows us to stay in areas that are less touristy and to experience living like the locals.

      We have always both loved Japanese food, but the breakfast is something that one can never find in restaurants in the West, and even here, it is hard to find restaurants focusing on a traditional breakfast. It was a great find and definitely memorable.

      Our house had a ceiling heater in the bedroom and lots of duvets, so once we were in bed, we had no trouble staying warm. Toilet visits were a little icy, however, one nice surprising feature was that the toilet seat was heated!!

      Peta

      Reply
  7. Tracey Bacic

    That was a great first line! Your description of Nara is wonderful. Particularly the food. I was always, and am now even more, sorry we did not make it there while we were in Japan.

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Tracey, that was a great greeting to Nara to have a deer lick my hand. Not gingerly either I might add, my hand was completely wet. Nara really grows on you… We felt like each day we spent there, we liked it more. It is SO easy to get around because it is small and the park and the temples are all in one general location.

      Peta

      Reply
  9. Lisa Dorenfest

    Totally jealous! I adore Japan. I did a summer abroad program in Tokyo in the 80s and wanted to stay on to teach English. My parents encouraged me to come home to complete my degree saying that “I could always go back’. While I’ve been many places since then, I’ve yet to return physically to Japan so am delighted to do so virtually through your lens. Still, I do wish the images of the yummy treats pictured here were edible.

    How fortunate are you to benefit from touring in the off-season? Love your digs ..although the lack of heat does seem challenging. Luckily, you’ve come from Chicago so should be used to the temps.

    The pictures here and from your instagram are magnificent. Thank you for taking me along with you!

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Lisa isn’t that just the truth?! We all often think we will get other opportunities to come back or revisit, but the reality is that we often don’t. Life happens and the stars sometimes don’t realign. So glad you could return virtually with our post…

      There is definitely a huge benefit to being here in off season with less visitors and most of them are Asian. However of course we are missing the magnificent spring and fall nature shows. Our house in Nara was surprisingly spacious but chilly, and now we are in Kyoto in a tiny tiny little house but it is SO cosy and warm with all the extra heating goodies (upcoming blog post…)

      Thank you for the lovely compliment on the photography. Especially coming from you, such a wonderful photographer.

      SO glad you enjoyed Nara with us. Hope you do get there some day. It’s a treat.

      P&B
      xoxo

      Reply
  10. Stephanae McCoy

    Thank you for sharing your awesome trip to Japan with us. I’ve always been fascinated with Japan and would love to see it in person someday but until then I’m loving the photos and everything you’ve written here. I’m also glad someone else asked how you were kept warm in the house as I was wondering the same thing. Wishing you and Ben a wonderful New Year!

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Stephanae nice to read you. Thanks for stopping by and leaving your feedback. Happy that you have enjoyed our photos and descriptions of Nara.

      Once we were under the covers in bed, we were totally fine as the duvets were so warm and snuggly. Just the air when we came in downstairs was like being in a fridge… haha

      Wonderful new year to you too.

      Peta

      Reply
  11. Laura

    Kevin and I had the great honor of visiting Japan several years ago and your beautiful descriptions and photographs of the landscapes, architecture, and food brought me back to that incredible trip. What a spectacular place and culture! And you guys truly are so lucky to be able to communicate effectively and understand the signage, That was SO intimidating! Not because people weren’t kind and helpful, but because we were so worried about accidentally offending someone! Not only is the language different, but the expectations are different as well – I remember reading before we left that it was highly disrespectful to leave chopsticks sticking straight into a bowl of rice. I was happy to know that and always worried we would do some otherwise seemingly harmless thing that would be considered rude. Fortunately, as far as we are aware, we created no international incidents during our visit. 🙂

    Your stay there sounds just wonderful. Talk about true cultural immersion! Love the photos of the Kaiseki. We also had the opportunity to visit a restaurant that specialized in that cuisine and, as you said, the tastes, textures, and presentations were simply remarkable.

    I hope you all are staying warm! Happy New Year!

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Laura thanks for all your interesting comments and feedback. We too have found people here to be super helpful and friendly. It actually has been amazing how helpful the taxi drivers and bus drivers we have encountered have been. As well, people in the street that we have asked for directions etc. It is true that Japan has a lot of “rules” and it can be easy to “offend”, but then again, they would put it down to one’s being a foreigner and therefore rather clueless. Given Ben’s knowledge of the culture and language it has been very easy navigating in every regard and a distinct advantage of allowing us to truly immerse ourselves culturally.

      For someone like us who both love vegetables prepared in interesting ways, Kaiseki is absolute heaven. I could eat this food every day and not get bored.

      We are in Kyoto now and toasty warm.

      Peta

      Reply
  12. Caroline Helbig

    You guys never cease to amaze me with your varied backgrounds and experiences.I’m so impressed watching the video with Ben speaking Japanese. That must open so many doors in the overall travel experience.

    It’s wonderful that despite the unfortunate circumstances in Hoi An you are able to make the best of things in Japan. Our son visited Nara this past August and speaks fondly of the deer and the food. Your gorgeous food photos are making my mouth water.

    All the best to both of you. Happy New Year!

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Caroline, I have been waiting to be able to get the benefit of Ben’s Japanese language skills and knowledge of the culture from his years here… and finally, here it is! It really does make for a different experience and lead us to a lot of good food. So many of the restaurants here are tiny places with no English signage and chefs that do not speak English. You put it well .. speaking Japanese definitely “opens doors”!

      Thank you. Happy new year to both of you as well.

      xoxo
      Peta

      Reply
  13. Ann Coleman

    How fun that you are in Japan! And I love the sacred deer….I have several first cousins whose mother is from Japan, and they have visited it often. I know they love it, and after reading our post, I think I would love to visit it myself. Thanks for sharing this, Peta!

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Ann, Japan is a country I have long been wanting to visit, especially because of Ben’s history with it. Up till now the stars have not aligned, but am so glad that they have, as I am really loving the whole experience. I hope you get a chance to visit. What region does your cousins’ mother come from?

      Peta

      Reply
  14. Alison

    Oh this was lovely! I alternated between envy and a big smile. I so much fell in love with Japan that anything about it is a pleasure for me. We only had one day in Nara, but better than nothing. I haven’t posted about it yet. Last Feb/Mar we had 4 weeks in Rishikesh then 2 weeks in Kyoto. I wish we’d had a Ben with us, if only for the food! Though we did find a wonderful little hole-in-the-wall restaurant near our (airbandb machiya) where we had dinner every night and used translation devises a lot and became part of the locals. So much fun. I would go back to Japan in a heartbeat, even in the winter.

    That’s too bad about the dengue outbreak! And smart of you to avoid it. It sounds like way too big a risk. How long do you think it will be until you can go back to Hoi An?

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thanks Alison. I am loving our experience in Japan, in particular of course the food. I don’t think I could ever tire of it, even if I ate it every single day. There is so much variety and so many great ways of preparing veggies… and all done in such an aesthetic way.

      Being here with Ben has been a goal of mine and it is great that finally we are doing it. His language and cultural skills have made this trip a breeze and certainly opens doors as of course we can navigate everything more easily but also because locals react differently when you speak their language. Almost everyone he speaks with tells him his accent is spot on!

      The dengue has died down and we are very excited to be heading back home to Hoi An in early 2020. (Just a few days time…)

      Peta

      Reply
  15. Lexklein

    There are so many aspects of this place that would draw me in, not least among them the deer. But I’m curious … as an animal lover, did you get any sense that maybe the deer are being exploited or that the masses of humans are affecting their habitat or eating habits or other things? I’m not trying to rain on any parade here; there are few things I’d enjoy more than petting a sweet deer in a park filled with these delicate creatures! I just see the crowds of people (and probably much smaller crowds than during the high season) all around the deer and wonder if it’s all OK.

    On a different note, what a treat to have found that breakfast and some of the other places to eat, and to have Ben to explain and translate! In addition to being in a local house and neighborhood, having the language skills surely gave you a much more in-depth look than most visitors could manage.

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Lex, good question re the deer.These were (as animal lover) my first thoughts as well. I think that humans everywhere the world over are of course impacting wildlife and their habitats at the most alarming rate and as a result so much wildlife is endangered and on the brink of extinction. That said, the deer seem to have plenty food in the park as it is a very large area with lots of foliage for them. Those deer that eat from the hand of visitors are more rambunctious as they tussle each other and visitors for the food. Which is why we chose not to engage in the feeding. We also saw a few visitors “teasing” deer with food, some children running away from eager deer ~ basically the food being sold in the park and offered was what seemed to cause some minor “issues”.

      Speaking Japanese has taken the whole experience of being in Japan, to another level. Most of the small eateries have no English outside or on the menu. I’m sure we would have managed, like we do in all countries where we don’t have language skills, but what a difference it has made for us here! Also of course locals react differently to you when you speak their language. And as well, Ben has had many interesting conversations with taxi drivers, and in restaurants.

      Peta

      Reply
  16. Liesbet

    First, I hope you’re OK, Peta!?

    Second, wow, the food! So diverse. So colorful. So tasty looking. And, contrary to popular belief, it is relatively affordable as well. It’s interesting to me (and then again, not really) how all these situations beyond your control bring you to new places, countries, and experiences.

    You two rock! Talk about being flexible and changing your plans on a whim! That sure has been a red thread for you both in 2019! But, mysterious Japan… what an opportunity. Especially with someone who speaks the language. 🙂

    I hope 2020 brings you peace, comfort, and some sort of “settling” and “settlement”. Wishing you both the best, and good health of course, with adventures that happen in a more controlled manner. 🙂 Big hugs from Georgia!

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thanks for your concern Liesbet. Once we get back home to Hoi An and things settle down, I will try to “put pen to paper”.

      Ahh the food!! SO diverse, so interesting, so delicious and so mindfully prepared. A definite art form. We have managed to find really good food at affordable prices and then have occasionally splurged once or twice on something really special. As well, we have bought food at the supermarkets, which has helped to keep our costs down. That said, Japan is overall very expensive but of course where there is a will, there is a way.

      Yes, 2019 has been the quite the year for us to be on our toes and adjust real time. Luckily being nomadic at heart, means that flexibility is our middle name!

      Haha that was funny “adventures that happen in a more controlled manner” ~ we are both rather Buddhist about life in the sense that we have relinquished any notion that we actually can control our environment and prioritise “surfing the waves” of what comes our way.

      Peta

      Reply
  17. Brook Skillman

    Such a delicious post especially if you loooove Japanese food! I always dreamed of going to Japan for the food yet I had no idea the extent of their food!

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      For sure most of us Westerners think of sushi and ramen as the primary Japanese foods, when in fact, they are just two categories of food. In addition, there is a lot of attention paid to the way food is presented. Overall I would say that just the food is well worth the trip!

      Thanks for stopping by to read and comment.

      Peta

      Reply
  18. Johanna Bradley

    I love the deer and temples, Peta. Probably not so keen on the food. I’ve never enjoyed sushi and I’m not a fan of pickled vegetables. Different taste buds, I guess. May the adventure continue in 2020, and the life changing event be a change for the good. 🙂 🙂

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      We were definitely surprised by the deer ~ unexpected for sure. Many more temples to come from our time in Kyoto… and gorgeous Japanese gardens.

      Thanks for stopping by to read us Johanna

      Peta

      Reply
  19. Sue Slaght

    There is just nothing like a steamy bath to take off the chill. Even though we have a well insulated home with multiple heating methods there is something about coming in and being frozen and the soothing heat of water.

    I’m curious to know if you are still waiting it out in Japan or if you have been able to return to Vietnam. Hopefully the outbreak is settling. Your decision to remain away sounds very wise.

    How beneficial that Ben can speak Japanese! Do you feel your culinary experience would have been different if you only spoke English? I very much enjoyed seeing all of the assorted pickles especially and so lovingly presented.

    Reply
  20. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

    Sue, growing up in South Africa, heating was often limited to standing portable heaters, as usually in Johannesburg where we lived, the winters were not severe. However, it got cold and baths were definitely the main way to warm up. I’m definitely one who loves lots of hot water.

    We have plans to return to Viet Nam on Friday. Seems like the dengue situation is under control and we are both yearning for warm weather and to be back as we have been gone now for two months.

    Yes, the culinary experience would be different because it would have narrowed the range of restaurants that we could comfortably walk into. Many places have no signs in English, no menus in English and therefore it has been tremendously helpful. A real asset.

    Peta

    Reply
  21. suzanne

    Reading your posts are like having a complete immersion experience into the most exotic cultures. Thank you for your beautifully descriptive writing and supportive photographs.

    You guys continue to amaze with your seamless adaptability to change – especially unexpected ones. I hope the epidemic passes quickly and you are able to return home soon. Wishing you the very best in 2020.

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Suzanne, thank you for such nice compliments and kind words.

      Change is the only constant in our lives, so we are pretty used to going with the flow. That said, it is true that “planned change” is different to having to reorient our lives on the go, based on external factors. Yes, since “necessity is the mother of invention” we also do wind up in places that we might not otherwise have visited, as a result of purposeful planning. Japan is a point in case. We have wanted to come here for several years together, but it just never came together up until now.

      We are on our way to the airport and excited to get back to Hoi An after two months of being “on the road”.

      Happy New Year to both of you as well. Wishing you a wonderful new decade.

      Peta

      Reply
  23. Dr Sock

    Peta, a fascinating photo essay on your visit to Nara. Rob (my husband) spent time in Japan in the early 70s during his time as a merchant seaman, but I have never been there. We often have talked about going there together, although the fact that it is so expensive, and that neither of us speak the language is a bit of a deterrent. I love being able to experience it vicariously through your account.

    Oh, and on Vancouver Island, we also live surrounded with deer. Although the Island has the highest population of cougars in Canada (or perhaps the world), the deer have figured out if they hang out in neighborhoods, the cougars will be less likely to get them.

    Jude

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Jude, yes Japan is expensive, however, there are certainly ways to do it on the relatively cheap such as we did. There are budget guesthouses, very good food that in Japan is considered “fast food”, and was inexpensive and yet still delicious. For a long time, we too avoided going due to the cost. Once we secured two home exchanges, this obviously was a game changer. With regard to the language, I’m sure one could manage without Japanese language skills, that said, of course it’s always helpful to have some knowledge of a local language.

      Deer AND cougar near you. Interesting… I assume the deer are not very tame, even though they hang out in neighborhoods?

      Peta

      Reply
  24. Gilda Baxter

    Peta, this is a wonderful post with so much great information. I am in awe of Ben being able to speak Japanese…wow I have no doubt that must be a difficult language to learn? As you mentioned he lived in Japan, but still not easy. I am glad you got to experience all with his guidance. It is a country that I long to visit, the food alone is a huge draw for me. The breakfast does look very special. I do hope the dengue fever outbreak is being controlled soon, we are leaving for SE Asia next week. We will be visiting Hoi An sometime in February, I will get in touch with you guys since it would be lovely to finally meet you in person.

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thanks Gilda for the nice compliments. Ben used to think Japanese was a difficult language to learn, but compared to Vietnamese he says “it’s a piece of cake!” Ha! The food was probably my main motivation to go there, I admit, and yes, totally worthwhile just for the food, for sure. But so much more, as well.

      Dengue fever is past, no current risk. How exciting you are doing a SE Asian trip. Look forward to meeting you both. Please do email me so we can get together: petakaplan@hotmail.com

      Safe travels,
      Peta

      Reply
  25. Laurel

    You both continue to inspire me with your ability to adapt to the ever-changing circumstances of life. You always seem to embrace the changes and challenges with grace and enthusiasm. All of that yoga really does enhance the flexibility of mind and body!

    I love getting a glimpse into Japan through your eyes. How cool that Ben is fluent in Japanese! The temples are beautiful—that enormous bronze Buddha is fabulous. And I appreciate the tiny details that you share, like the ‘persimmon mobile.’ Those are the kinds of things that catch my eye, too. The food, of course, looks amazing!!

    I have no doubt that this year will bring you many more grand adventures. I’m looking forward to your journey. 🙂

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Laurel, thank you for your comments re change and adaptability. It is true that change has been the recurring theme for us for a few years, but especially in 2019. Ben is the master of change, and I’m certainly grateful for that, as it takes me a bit longer to adjust and adapt to our ever changing reality. No complaints though… I’m getting used to the rollercoaster rides.

      Ben claims he is not “fluent” in Japanese, but after a few days of feeling rather rusty, he certainly got into the swing of the language and many people commented that his accent was excellent and thought he had grown up in Japan! High compliment indeed.

      Yes, it’s the little details.. not only the temples and the obviously great sights, but the little things that make us smile during the course of our explorations… such as the persimmons drying, hung like art. The dried persimmon and the fresh actually, were both particularly delicious.

      Wishing you both more wonderful adventures in 2020 and good health as well. I always enjoy reading your life and travel updates.

      Peta

      Reply
  26. Erica/Erika

    Hi Peta and Ben, Tonight, I poured myself a glass of wine and sat down to relish your post. I know I will learn something new and look at our planet in a different way after reading your posts. I have always been intrigued by the Japanese culture. We lived beside a Japanese family when I was growing up and I got a sense of their values and customs.

    I really like how you included a map. It gives a visual frame of reference.

    I appreciate all of your photos and the descriptions. I was not aware about the diversity of Japanese cuisine. I wonder whether loving and mindful energy is imparted into the food? Also, a feast for the eyes.

    I appreciate you sharing a very interesting post along with the photos that tell the story. You also remind me how “home” is wherever the both of you are together:) Erica

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Erica these comments made us both smile from ear to ear. Great to have the visuals of you sitting with a glass of wine and sitting down to read our post. What a lovely compliment!

      There is no doubt that food preparation in Japan, is yet another opportunity to practice a zen mindset of mindfulness and tranquiltiy. Aesthetics in Japan are of course highly valued, and so evident in the choice of pottery for presenting food and how food is arranged, color, etc, etc.

      Our definition of home has definitely been shaped by our nomadic lifestyle and our goal really when travelling to new countries, is to feel as though we live wherever we land, no matter how short or long. We hate being “tourists’ and value being able to immerse ourself in a local neighborhood, which is definitely one of the great benefits of using home exchange.

      Thanks for your thoughtful feedback Erica/Erika.

      Peta

      Reply
  27. Jeff

    Looks like a fantastic trip to Nara. It must be another experience altogether when you speak the language.

    Love the look of those pickled vegetables. Culinary art right there! Much prefer the ‘real’ mochi in Japan. Just delicious. I’m on the lookout in Sydney now to find a non ice-cream version. Fingers crossed 🙂

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Jeff, you are correct, being able to communicate in Japanese helped us significantly.

      We enjoyed the novelty of the pickled vegetables at the specialty restaurant, but actually when the pickled vegetables were included in our breakfast Kaiseki, that was even more of a culinary delight. More balanced and very carefully selected each day for their color, texture and balancing out of taste.

      Good luck with the mochi hunt. Totally different to the mochi one gets in the U.S. I definitely got hooked on the real thing!!

      Peta

      Reply
  28. Kris

    Wooooooow. All the food looks so mindfully prepared! Incredible. Seems like you both enjoyed this culinary trip to the fullest! As if there would be any other way right? 😉
    Never seen a post where you guys wear so many clothes! Haha! Hope you’re back enjoying the sun and the warm waters of Vietnam. Lots of love always x

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Ahhhh the food. Sublime. No other way! Correct assessment!! 🙂

      Very unusual for us to be bundled up in so many clothes.. and as we don’t really have much winter stuff we used a layering approach. Plus I was freezing ~ when you are used to tropical weather, the cold is really COLD! So happy to be back in warm weather, going to the beach almost daily.

      Lots of love to you and the girls xoxox
      P

      Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Japan was a long time a coming….. well worth the wait! I’m missing the food already.

      Ben feels now he has “checked the box” now that he has spent time with me in Japan. Something we wanted to do for a long time. But I, however, am eager to return … yes, for the food!!

      Peta

      Reply
  30. spanky

    What a great adventure! We’ve never tried a home exchange but maybe we should especial in places like Japan where the rental costs are really high. I agree with everyone else. You totally lucked out having THE best food guide ever. Ordering food was often an issue for us during our visit to Japan a few years ago. The packaging/presentation was always beautiful but we weren’t always 100% sure what we were ordering. I loved Nara but I was always a little nervous about the deer after I saw a few chase after tourists :). The temples there were the highlight to me.

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Spanky, home exchange is something we use almost where ever we travel, whenever we can! In fact, many a time, home exchange has shaped our travels, because we have geared our destinations around what came our way (in Europe as a good example of this). We are huge fans of home exchange… Such a game changer budget and experience wise.

      We consciously chose NOT to feed the deer, as we prefer not to feed wildlife, even when the rules say its okay. However, we noticed that it was the people who had the food who got chased or pushed. Several people were also taunting the deer with the deer treat. We had absolutely no such issues and we were there several days in a row. The temples are incredible.

      Peta

      Reply
  31. Kim Sisto Robinson

    I agree!

    I love spending some of my morning w/ you!

    Inspiring. Amazing. Exuberating.

    I learn about the world outside of America.

    The DEER!))))) YESSSSSSSS, I want to surround myself w/ them!

    And w/ You!

    xxx love From MN.

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Kim ~ am so glad you enjoyed your morning with us!! We love to share our experiences and adventures. You are always so enthusiastic and supportive.

      Ah you would have loved the deer experience. Such gentle, beautiful creatures.

      Much love
      P

      Reply
  32. Sharon Bonin-Pratt (Shari)

    I could revert to my youth and exclaim, “Oh wow, oh wow, oh wow,” but I’ll spare you my limited vocabulary of expressing exuberance and awe for all the images of Japan. From the bowels of limited options you made a wonderful transition to a country most of us here in the states know only by electronics, or, from when I was a really little kid, by laughing, “It was made in Japan.” Meaning, it was a piece of junk. Now Japan, at least this part, appears to live comfortably in tune with nature and with its own culture. I really love your photos – so beautiful. The deer trying to read the plaque on the monument. The graceful calligraphy of signage. The trees supported by lumber carefully placed in reverence of aging limbs. The chef laboring to gift his customers with hearty breakfast fare. (What? No boxed cereal?) I don’t know why, but I’m able to see the photos again on your site and am really enjoying each post. Eat well, stay healthy, happy New Year. If you want to create a new business, you might consider establishing American ambassador schools for travelers, or how to truly win friends with gentleness and sincere good will.

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Sharon, thank you for the thoughtful and extensive feedback. What a range from “oh wow oh wow” to the beautifully worded “trees supported by lumber carefully place in reverence of ageing limbs.” And thank you for the compliment on the photography, so glad you can now see our photos on your computer, once again.

      Peta

      Reply

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