After our short sojourn to Kyoto for a temple market, we are back in Nara for a few more days. Most people whizz in and out of Nara, but we are very happy to have a full five days here before we move on to Kyoto. One of the things we appreciate about using home exchange (aside from the fact that accommodation is without cost), is that it gives us time in places we might not otherwise see, nor spend time in.
Thirteen hundred years ago, Nara (then Heiju-kyu) was the imperial capital of Japan. It is said that “Old Japan” is still easy to spot here, especially in the historic Naramachi merchant area.
Nara’s government and population have preserved as much of the “Old Japan” wherever possible. Shinto temple grounds remain bastions of protected nature, Shinto buildings are meticulously restored and maintained to their original condition. Many of the buildings in the historic district, were Machiya (traditional trading houses) ~ long, narrow “townhouses” that served both as shops and as the living quarters of the local merchants. Many of these have now been converted into restaurants, small museums and boutiques. Traditional artisanal workmanship of ceramics, wood, calligraphy and paper making continue to be valued and passed down through generations.
Kasuga Taisha is a Shinto shrine, established in 768 CE and rebuilt several times over the centuries and is nestled in a primeval forest.The Japanese believe that the color vermilion orange is the color which expels evil and diseases, which is why the Shinto torii (gates) are often painted vermillion and in some cases entire architectural complexes such as this one, are as well.We both have an affinity for the color orange. Years back, in Chicago, we had a spiral staircase with vermillion orange carpeting, and we painted a wall orange, behind that. We also once created an art work of 40 small canvases painted in various shades of orange. So as you can see, we are big fans of the color vermillion.Kasuga Taisha is famous for its hundreds of metal lanterns (that can be seen here hanging against the white walls).
Beautiful stone lanterns line the paths to and from the shrine and create a magical atmosphere together with the sun rays bursting through the trees.
It was worth the trip to Japan, just to walk through this beautiful primeval forest, with hundreds of ancient stone lanterns lining the paths, light streaming through the thick forest and an occasional sacred deer. Forest bathing is a Japanese concept which refers to the overall benefits of walking through a forest. Oh yes!
There is also a collection of small orange shrines dotting the paths near the main shrine. Emas (wooden prayer votives) with inscriptions hang here as they do, at all shrines and temples in Japan.And a “wall” of paper prayers tied like origami into knots, as well…Many of the stone lanterns are covered in a thick carpet of soft green moss.Kasugayama primeval Forest.
If Shinto as a religion lies at the core of Japan’s culture, it is also true that nature lies at the core of the Shinto religion. Respect and protection of nature is the Shinto bottom line. There is a strong spiritual bond with nature and there is evidence of this everywhere… From the rock gardens we see (later on in Kyoto) to the way trees are propped up when in need of support, and carefully tied with rope by the work of artisanal gardeners.
Fascinating and wonderful how much trees are respected here ~ Note even the smaller structure at the bottom providing additional support to the ageing tree.
Due to population density, Japan is one of the most crowded places on earth per habitable space. The extreme density of buildings in the massive Japanese urban industrial centers makes it all the more remarkable that Shinto shrines all over Japan have managed to carve out and protect large swaths of nature that surround them.
On our walk back from the forest and shrines, we pass quite a few persimmon trees, full of orange fruit like glowing small balls against the blue sky.
This appreciation for nature, also finds its way through traditional architecture. Many traditional rural buildings can still be found which open entirely to the surroundings (with no doors). Ideally nature flows through the living space.
We peek in many an open gateway to enjoy the details and beauty of Japanese architectureClose up of the gray slate roof tiles
Nara is a very easy city to navigate and to get around by walking everywhere. It takes about 20 or 30 minutes maximum to walk from Nara Park and its temples to the historic center (Naramachi) where there are many little restaurants lining narrow streets, ready to be discovered.
Kanji (the adopted logographic Chinese characters that are used in the Japanese writing system, look much like modern street art.
It’s worth mentioning that vending machines are a literal institution in Japan. They are everywhere and sell a wide range of products, but the ones Ben was most interested in were the ones that had hot capuccino. He was relieved to get his caffeine “fix” on the street, so that we could keep walking…
Just like Japan has become the undisputed world leader in industrial robotics, Japan’s declining and ageing demographic has been a forcing function in a country grappling with how to do more with a shrinking work force. The use of vending machines is far more ubiqutous and far more creative in it’s product offering than anywhere in the West. Where the West uses vending machines primarily for drinks and snacks, Japan’s vending machines sell an astounding variety of goods: rice, sake, umbrellas, electronics, beer, vegetables, hot meals, toilet paper, t-shirts, ice-cream, ties!, toys, fruit, flowers, batteries and even fresh eggs!
We ate twice at this modern spotless restaurant near our home exchange. It works like this: First you make your choices from the menu, and then you hit the corresponding buttons on the vending machine. You put the cash in the machine, get a ticket and then take a seat at the bar. The staff all meticulously dressed in white, move silently and deliberately between the huge pots of rice and the kitchen, and serve up delicious food to eager customers sitting at the bar.The automated selection and payment process shown above, allows for a smooth flow and ease for the customer and efficiency gains for many restaurants. Payment is done before the meal, allowing the restaurant staff ‘s focus to be on mindful food preparation and presentation. No exchange of money between staff and customer. All eliminated by the automated machine.First comes a tray of small plates: miso soup with mushroom and eggplant, mountain vegetables, tofu skin, steamed greens with mushrooms. Everything is delicious!Next comes the daily special of tempura. I took apart the tempura, so that one can see the various elements that make up the whole. It was stacked beautifully in the shape of a pyramid. A mixture of saltwort and burdock root, (top right), fish paste wrapped with seaweed, flat green bean, konjak (devils tongue or elephant yam) with bonito flakes and Japanese radish with the leaves still on. Heavenly bites, each one.Evidence of some serious sake drinking…A tiny sake bar on the street, with all the varieties of sake available, written up on rectangular pieces of paper which create a “wallpaper” of sake offerings.We were perhaps most surprised one day to find a food truck making interesting and scrumptious looking and smelling artisanal wood fire pizzas. We looked at each other.. Should we? Could we? Eat a pizza while in Japan? It seems sacrilegious to eat anything other than Japanese cuisine while in Japan and yet, we are interested to try their version of pizza made with home grown organic veggies from the Kansai region. And boy, are we glad we didn’t pass this up. Have to say, best pizza we have every had. Anywhere!!! Definitely worth the reluctant deviation from Japanese cuisine.
“Well come to our Drinking Team” – that sign made me laugh out loud! Another wonderful, mouth-watering post. I loved the forest and temple shots and accompanying text as well. I am a huge fan of forest-bathing…ever since I was a small child and long before I knew it was a thing. Someday I must visit this fascinating country!
Thank you Peta and Ben
Deb, isn’t that sign funny! Was wondering who might catch that.
We both love being in nature ~ I grew up on a hillside next to a nature reserve (in Johannesburg, South Africa) and forests are definitely a favorite. Love how the Japanese have coined the term “forest bathing”.
I hope you do get to visit Japan one day. I sure waited a long time until it was the opportune and affordable moment!
I share your orange adoration and would have loved to walk upon your vermillion-clad staircase or gazed upon your ’40 shades of orange’ on canvas :-). But this post definitely satisfied my addiction to color for today. And what is not to love about everything Shinto! I so envy your current living situation. 5 days in Nara would be a dream. That architecture, the people, and the food; I could live on tempura and pizza! And it appears the Japanese are innovative as ever with the automation How long will you be in Kyoto once you return there?
Lisa, even though we were in Japan in the winter, the vermillion color everywhere, made up for the fact that we missed most of the Autumn colors. Five days in Nara, was amazing. I am so glad we took the time to really discover and enjoy it.
Already missing both the tempura, and all the other Japanese cuisine, and that pizza!
We spent a week in Kyoto after Nara, before returning here to Hoi An, Viet Nam. Kyoto posts upcoming soon. Stay tuned.
Nice to read you Lisa ~ so quickly too ~ are you on land?
Peta! You look like the “spy who forgot to come in from the cold”.
What a great post. And I’m grateful to you for sharing all your journeys so I can ride along in my armchair. Great MOSS pictures.
xxxx judy
P.S. Ben, you look very dapper with the casually tossed scarf – the capuccino picture . . . not so dapper as cold.
Judy, the comment re my looking like a spy, made me laugh. I do rather! Wearing my dad’s hat, so that he can travel Japan with us!
WAIT until you see the photos of the moss in the Japanese gardens in Kyoto!! Moss is pretty much used instead of grass and it really looks incredible everywhere one sees it. (Upcoming in the next posts)
Ben looks both dapper and cold. The hot cappuccino from the vending machines, made all the difference to our cold morning starts.
Forest bathing – don’t you just love that term?! We were talking yesterday about another trip to Japan, we are longing to see more of the country – and then I find your post, and my mouth watered. Literally. I know what you mean about eating pizza in Japan. We just found an Italian restaurant in Quy Nohn (Vietnam) and thought exactly – ‘should we’? But we did and it was so delish… Loved reading this post for so many reasons!
I do love the term forest bathing. I also like moon bathing.. both of these in term and in actuality. We were thinking about how apt the term is while we were walking through this primeval forest ~ it felt like a beautiful bath in nature. Fresh air, huge trees, sun breaking in, sacred deers, beautiful shrines… dream like.
So glad you enjoyed our post so much. Kyoto posts coming up soon. I really loved Japan, it was an amazing trip!
An unhurried 5 days. What a treat. I think you found out a Nara that not many get to do, except through your lovely posts! This one seemed more relaxed too — was it the forest bathing? I love the moss on those stone lanterns, I bet that is centuries old too. I want some!
It WAS a wonderful treat. A slow unwinding of a special place. By staying longer than a few days, it allowed Nara, to reveal itself and “grow” on us at an unhurried pace. We saw a wonderful museum in Nara Park as we were park ~ world class Buddhist scupltures museum.
The moss was just something special. And then when we got to Kyoto, we saw that moss is a distinct feature of Japanese gardens. Beautiful photos upcoming soon.
Thanks for the lovely feedback Johnny. Hear you are in Costa Rica these days? Hope life is treating you well.
I really enjoyed this visit to Nara. You spent more time in the town than we did, so got to explore a little more. Like most places I think, a flying visit is never enough. So cool to hear Ben speaking Japanese.
Ben thought that his Japanese would be rusty. But after the first day, it flooded back in, as though he had never left. In fact, almost every person he spoke to commented on his great accent and one man asked whether he had grown up in Japan! So that was very cool… and fantastically helpful to his language skills along with us.
We could have stayed longer even in Nara we felt there were so many more small restaurants we wanted to eat in or discover, and we just loved it. That said, our house was cold and we lucked on that front in Kyoto (upcoming post). We also saw, but did not write about, a wonderful museum with world class collection of Buddhist sculptures.
Peggy, I did not know that, how cool. Heart breaking to read about the fires in Australia… just horrific really. The tragic reality of climate change is now upon as all. I hope you and yours are safe. All that wildlife lost ~ breaks my heart.
Thanks for sharing your colourful , serene, textured and spiritual experience. Colors are so powerful in creating an experience and atmosphere. This appealed to all of my senses! . We as a family love and include orange in all of our homes!! Familial!! Special you are wearing your dad’s hat!! 😘❤️
Janice nice to read your feedback and that you are on “team orange” haha. So glad you enjoyed this post, Nara will remain indelibly associated with the color orange for us as will our exploration into the world of Kaiseki cuisine.
Wearing my dads hat has me feeling as though he is along with us on our travels and adventures in Japan. So much he would have loved here. Especially the zen gardens, coming up in Kyoto.
Hi. I loved your piece and tracking your whereabouts. Japan hasn’t been on the top of my radar but I will move it up. Thinking about traveling but feeling a bit lazy seems like Florida is still so new for me after 44 years in Montana. I guess I’ll live a few more months vicariously through you and Ben. Have you heard from Brooke?
Hi Heidi, nice to hear from you. For me, Japan was a country that I wanted to live primarily because Ben spent five years there. But in the past, the economics were just too daunting. Getting two home exchanges and a cheap flight from the U.S. made it the opportune moment. I would be back in a dash, even if just for the food!
Florida I’m sure is quite a different culture to Montana. Glad to hear you are enjoying discovering it.
(Yes, am in constant contact with Brook ~ doing v well in Goa.)
What a great place to visit. I too love the colour vermilion and enjoyed learning that it wards off evil and disease. Your photos and descriptions are enticing as always and you both look so relaxed and at home. I loved the chip of Ben speaking Japanese. For a number of years, we had Japanese homestay students live with us. They tried to teach me Japanese but I am hopeless at learning languages. I did learn to love the Japanese culture though. The girls called us their Canadian parents. They were delightful.
Darlene, just for the record, if it makes you feel any better, Japanese is an extremely hard language to learn. Maybe not as bad as Vietnamese is, but certainly up there! Add to that, yes Ben has an affinity for languages.
Thanks for the compliment on the photos and narrative. Japanese felt totally comfortable in almost every regard and certainly for Ben it did feel very familiar. One of the things in Japan that surely makes visitors feel relaxed is the fact that it is so safe and no one steals. So you never have to watch your back. And then, the daily regiment of hot baths to warm up, super relaxing.
I love that they have preserved so much of Japan’s history in Nara! (And especially the green spaces.) I love visiting just about any historical site, because it’s like a peek into the past. But I’m curious why a country as crowded as Japan has a declining work force? Is it simply due to aging? In that case, will the population of the country decrease overall? Just curious!
Ann, good question. There are three separate factors which contribute to the perfect storm for Japan’s demographic crisis.
1) The Japanese like the rest of the world, are living longer. Always the leaders in longevity in the world, there are now so many centenarians that the government had to abandon a multi decade practice of awarding a gold coin/medal to those that live to 100 years old!
2) Because of the work force centric organisation of Japanese society, the average number of children per couple, has been below 2,0 for a long time, meaning, less children and not replenishing the population.
3) Japan has not adopted immigration policies like Europe, U.S., Canada and Australia that historically have contributed to a growing work force. The only significant foreign population in Japan has historically been Korean, but Japan has consistently failed to find ways to integrate foreigners in its work force and community at large.
Therefore, YES, the population will decrease and get older, thereby forcing Japan either to dramatically change it’s immigration policies (highly unlikely) or, to embrace automation in a drastic way, which is precisely what they are doing. (Robots in hospitals, homes for cleaning tasks,)
We can look forward to tremendous innovation coming from Japan, i the area of robotics and artificial intelligence, in the support of an ageing society.
I love the bright colors of the temples too, and the detailed artistry that can be found everywhere – even the roof tiles. You are right that it is so impressive that the shrines have been able to protect the natural landscapes surrounding them. The food looks awesome and I’m glad to hear the pizza tasted as good as it looks. You really just never know until you try something for yourself. The vending machines are such a cool feature of everyday life in Japan. I wonder if that type of technology will come our way at some point. Given how much we now interact with machines in our daily lives (checking ourselves out at grocery stores, etc), I wouldn’t be surprised if we start seeing more and more stuff like that… for better or worse.
Laura, yes, no doubt, automation is coming your way! That is what the “internet of things” is also about. Interactive machines that track our every movement and every need to allegedly provide assistance across our daily activities. Whether the vending machine becomes as prevalent (and varied in its offerings) in the West is also a function of space, not just labor. Space being such a premium in Japan, the delivery of stuff to be sold by vending machine requires far less space and money than a shop does. The U.S./Canada/Australia…. are not space constrained the way Japan is. Maybe Europe will see more vending machines sooner, as they are also more constrained than the U.S. etc.
You’re making me hungry again! Now, here’s the big question (but I think I know the answer already): do they have vending machines with fresh breads of different varieties in Japan, like they do in Belgium? 🙂
Sadly, we did not run into a baguette delivering vending machine while in Japan. Definitely room for improvement 🙂 Onigiri (triangular rice pockets with crispy nori seaweed, yes, and sandwiches seem popular but no baguette.
However, since we were intrigued, we took a peak at Japan’s history with bread and it is an interesting one. In 2011, the per capita consumption of bread in Japan exceeded for the first time ever, the per capita consumption of rice. An existential crisis for a rice growing country. Take a look at this article on bread history in Japan:
Ah well, fusion of cultures is the new norm these days.
One day in Kyoto we came across a tiny bakery with freshly baked walnut and fig nut bread. Ahhh, even in Japan, a-cultural or not, we went for it….
Ben’s favorite croissant in the entire world, and this coming from a Frenchman who has had more than his share of croissant, was Auroville, India!! A dusty town that is the remnant of some long gone French Colonialist presence in Pondicherry.
I so enjoy “slow travel” and staying put in one place (especially a smaller place) for a while, so your stay in Nara seems idyllic to me. (As you know, our upcoming trip to Asia will be just the opposite – an overview of a number of places, but sometimes the trip has to morph to fit the time and travelers!) With deer and those mossy forests, Nara had already captured my attention, but throw in that pizza, and I’m ready to book a trip!
Lex, if we have the choice, we definitely have now put in a self imposed ideal of no less than 5 days in a place. Of course, that’s not always possible, but it’s definitely our preferred mode these days.
First impressions of Nara, had us wondering if we had made the right decision to get a home exchange for five days.. but after the first couple of days, it became clear, that because we had that extra time we could really experience our neighborhood to the full without feeling stressed for time, which was very nice indeed.
Japanese food was way beyond my expectation, and I have loved Japanese food for 20 years, but that pizza, is right up there!
Mmmm, those mouthwatering photos of food! I love Japanese food, but have never had it in Japan. Must go there!
As a child, orange was my favourite colour (but now as an adult I have many favourites) and orange is also my grandson’s favourite colour. I love that glorious photo of the persimmon tree.
The large tree in the Kasugayama primeval forest photo looks like it might be a cedar? Are there cedar trees in Japan?
I have been looking forward to visiting Japan primarily for the food, for a long time now. It was definitely worth the wait, as the variety and quality of the cuisine is exceptional.
It was fun to see the persimmon fruit growing on the trees and as well, to see it in dried form, and drying ~ hanging outside homes. Persimmon is a special treat for New Year.
Yes, there are cedar trees in Japan, for sure. Whether this photo shows one, of that I am not as sure… 🙂
I am forever learning when I visit your blog. I had never thought about why orange is so prominent in areas of japan. Well that makes perfect sense. As to the vending machines that must be the Olympic winner of variety. Fresh eggs and hot cappuccino. Wouldn’t it be intriguing to see the inner workings?
Thanks Sue. We are forever learning when we travel and so we try to not be just a travelogue but to share some insights. Ah that cappuccino vending machine saved us many a day. A lot of cafes and restaurants only opened at 11 in Nara, and so not many options there, not good for a coffee addict such as Ben.
We’ve never been to Japan, but if we were to go places like the grounds of that Shinto temple would be high on the list. The crowded chaos of the bigger cities? Not so much. But who knows, you may change my mind with Kyoto.
Ah Dave you have a treat coming, with Kyoto. Bear in mind we are travelling during winter when crowds are way less than in season.
However, one interesting thing to note is that in Japan one has to adjust to a different reality of what constitutes “crowded”, as the population density is such that “very crowded” is the norm, and we just talking locals ~ most of whom would go to the gardens, the temple etc on a regular basis.
How wonderful to travel vicariously with you to Japan. Everything looks so different and interesting. The food really appeals to my taste buds and looks so healthy, even the pizza. Are the sardines on the pizza, what I know as anchovies? You both look so amazing dressed up for the cold and I especially love your hat, Peta. Ben’s scarf looks really dashing too and how wonderful that his Japanese is so perfect. Thanks so much for your photos. I almost felt I was there with you. xx
Sylvia thanks for your overwhelming enthusiasm on this post! The food was definitely both delicious and healthy. The sardines on the pizza are sardines indeed, not anchovies. A wonderful and unusual addition to a pizza, I might add.
We had a very limited wardrobe from cold weather, after our stay in Chicago where it was literally freezing. But yes, I know, most unusual to see us in jackets and scarves and so on and frankly we both prefer to be barefoot and in t shirts. I loved having my dad’s hat with me.. and it really did keep me warm.
I’m glad you got in some forest bathing. I’ve been reading a lot about that concept lately and couldn’t agree more about the benefits of walking in the forest. Those stone lanterns and the dappled sun and moss sure make a soothing scene. It’s great that you were able to immerse yourself in the pleasures of Nara.
Forests do seem to have that unique quality that re energizes and calms the soul. Nothing new here of course, because Druids, the medicine men of Europe at the time of the Romans, were all about nature and “forest bathing” although they didn’t quite call it that. The Japanese coined the branding.
I so enjoyed joining you and Ben in this visit to Nara, Peta. You offer a wonderfully comprehensive look at the Japanese lifestyle through the photos and narrative. The shrines, forest, urban settings, food, street scenes. Past integrated with the present, too. Interesting about the shrinking workforce and how they have automated the restaurant scene while still offering incredible foods. Thanks for this visit, much appreciated.
Thanks Jet for your positive feedback. Japan has to be one of the most organised societies out there and after all, they introduced the world to the concept of “continuous improvement” in industrial settings and so it is baked into all businesses large and small, to look for opportunities to improve the customer experience while automating tasks.
Ah…slow travel is the way to go! And you two do it so well. I love your walking explorations and all of the details and observations that you include. The temple is gorgeous, and the orange roof and doors provide welcome brightness in the winter landscape. We always have touches of vermillion orange in our home, so now I know it’s a very good thing! And the food looks fabulous, pizza included (which has a delicate, appealing look—very Japanese, for pizza, lol!).
Laurel, the funny thing about slow travel is that we have a similar experience almost every time, which is initially thinking, “ok we don’t need to be here that long, we could leave sooner” and then, as we slow down and adjust our pace and start to get comfortable in our neighborhood, the more it grows on us and the more we appreciate and see.
Something about that color of vermillion orange that just brightens a room, or a forest, or a face ( I now have vermillion/red glasses). I like how you phrased that… “welcome brightness in the winter landscape”.
Almost all food in Japan has an appealing look as the Japanese firmly believe that the aesthetics of food augment the dining experience.
A faith and culture dedicated to protecting nature – now that’s a great thought! Seems intuitive yet modern life is evidence that it is not. I also love the color orange – so vivacious and happy, and now to learn that it’s a defense against evil. I’m enchanted by the moss growing on monuments, by trees growing into the sky, by calligraphy splashed on everything, arranged to create its own art. But if most of us visited Japan, this is not the country we’re likely to see, so I thank you for generously sharing your unique perspective.
Sharon I was enchanted too. Perhaps it’s novelty that can enchant us….Going to Japan was a harder “sell” for Ben, with his having lived in Japan for five years Once one dives deeper by living in a country for an extended period of time, one gets all sorts of different insights. A difference experience entirely. Ben was amused at how positive I was and at how enamoured of the whole experience….
The whole focus on nature and on aesthetics and mindfulness, was unlike any other country we have been to and oh it gets even more interesting once we get to Kyoto (posts upcoming).
About the “unique perspective”… what is interesting is that, when we go to countries that are not on most people’s radar (Cambodia, Myanmar, Laos, Indonesia…) our experience stands on its own… whereas when visiting countries that people are more familiar with, such as Japan, our slow travel approach and perspective comes through as more obviously distinct.
Thank you for the lovely comments and for reading our Green Global Trek.
Hi again. Your posts are so fascinating because of both the detail and the wonderful photos. I figure all the walking keeps you both trim in spite of all that eating! Was the pizza conventional or with a Japanese twist? I so love the shrines and the green areas. I live in an Apartment now, but look out at woods where I see deer and turkeys and rabbits along with many birds. There are blooming trees in the spring and lovely colors in the fall. I don’t think I could flourish without forests. Love the ideal of forest bathing! This is the best “Peek” at Japan I’ve had. My son visited there, but was mostly in the large cities. My brother spent a longer time and went all over quite a few years ago. He is six ft. three so he attracted a lot of attention in the tiny villages. He isn’t nearly as good as you are at getting such wonderful variety of photos. Thanks so much for letting us travel with you!
The pizza had some unexpected “twists”, though I am not sure they would qualify as uniquely Japanese. One pizza featured local/regional root vegetables, also known in Japan as Mountain vegetables. And another featured sardines, not something I have ever seen on a pizza before.
How wonderful to live in place that has such good view over nature and wildlife. Access to or view of nature is always a key criterion as we select a place to live.
Glad you enjoyed the peek into our version of Japan.
Smiling at the end with your “best pizza – anywhere.” I wonder why. Because it’s in Japan and unexpected? Photo does make my mouth water. ORANGE, never ever knew the benefits and believes of orange. I’ve never been driven toward that color, but I may have to rethink my focus. And forest bathing – what a lovely forest with the lanterns lighting the way. Of course, humans all over the world have hiked/walked/”bathed” in their local forests (I live near Henry David Thoreau’s forest, where he brought walking and living in the woods to a higher form), but I appreciate the way the Japanese have brought back into focus the joys/necessities of walking in nature for the goodness and health of the soul.
The pizza was uniquely good in its own right, and not just appearing that good because of the surprise element of being in Japan. Made with home grown organic veggies, lots of love, and the highest grade imported olive oil and other ingredients. A thin crispy crust that was to die for…
Love the fact that you brought Thoreau’s forest into this blog. YES! Of course walking in forests is not new and we, in the West, have Thoreau to thank for elevating forest appreciation into our consciousness. Thoreau’s contribution concretized through his 1854 essay Walden: Or, Life in the Woods. Shinto, the original Japanese religion before Buddhism took hold, dates back to about 1000 BCE and had forest gods at its core.
What the Japanese have done since 1980 is to provide both a scientific basis to document the health benefits of forest bathing, as well as an organizational basis by recognizing through law and government policy, the establishment of what they call “Forest Therapy Bases (FTB)”.
As the article below explains, the Japanese government established 48 Forestry Trails (now 62) where the health impact on forest “bathers” was studied. A professor at Nippon Medical School in Tokyo, measured the activity of human natural killer (NK) cells in the immune system before and after exposure to the woods. These cells provide rapid responses to viral-infected cells and respond to tumor formation, and are associated with immune system health and cancer prevention. In a 2009 study Li’s subjects showed significant increases in NK cell activity in the week after a forest visit, and positive effects lasted a month following each weekend in the woods.
What is intriguing to us is that the Japanese approach to this “forest bathing”, called shinrin-yoku, is “codified”. As one enters the 62 Forest Therapy Bases, one is instructed to turn off all electronics, not to try and excercise, or track how many steps taken… It is more of a passive approach of allowing the forest to do its thing, i.e. to impact directly our parasympathetic system as a result of the trees’ secretions.
As the next study demonstrated: “The team measured the subjects’ salivary cortisol (which increases with stress), blood pressure, pulse rate, and heart rate variability during a day in the city and compared those to the same biometrics taken during a day with a 30-minute forest visit. “Forest environments promote lower concentrations of cortisol, lower pulse rate, lower blood pressure, greater parasympathetic nerve activity, and lower sympathetic nerve activity than do city environments” .
As yoga practitioners, it was interesting to note that “Back in the United States, popular enthusiasm for the health benefits of time in nature has grown exponentially; proponents have described the forest bathing trend as analogous to “where Yoga was 30 years ago.”
OK, this is surely more than you wanted to know, but this research surrounding forest bathing is new to us and reading that there is more than “cute branding” and that there is now a scientific underpinning took our experience to a different level.
So yes… more forest walking in our future and… going to read up on Thoreau’s writings.
Five days in Nara sounds nice. Staying overnight, you can outflank the daytrippers from Kyoto and Osaka. We had the giant buddha to ourselves for about 15 minutes before the buses arrived 🙂
I’m not surprised the Japanese made a great pizza – they do everything well.
It is wonderful when countries and cultures preserve and protect historic areas. This is the first time I have heard about the colour vermillion orange and the significance of this colour. I don’t think it is a colour we see often in homes here. Fascinating how the two of you had orange in your home in Chicago. I suspect the stone lanterns still light up? I like everything about Forest Bathing. I read once how the trees emit oils that are therapeutic and part of the health benefits. The paper prayers remind me of an area we visited in Christ Church, NZ commemorating the people that lost their lives in the Earthquake. This area also was a wall of origami. I greatly appreciate all of the photos! An amazing post, once again, Peta and Ben. Thank you!
Interestingly, different countries and cultures have different colors which have meaning and significance. For instance, in some cultures, white represents innocence, but in others, it can represent death. Red is the most powerful of all colors in Indian culture and holds many important meanings. Among them are fear and fire, wealth and power, purity, fertility, seduction, love, and beauty. Purple represents nobility in most Asian cultures. However, it’s a symbol of mourning in Thailand and in most Middle East countries purple represents wealth.
The stone lanterns are lit up at night on special occasions and holidays.
Fascinating about the added aromatherapy benefits of forests.
Very interesting how the different colours have different meanings in different cultures. I good reminder to continue learning about various cultures and to not make any assumptions. Thank you, again, Peta!
Erica, it IS always interesting yes, to dig deeper beyond the surface when we can. Especially in cultures that are different to our own. Therein lies one of the best parts of travel. I was an awful student during my childhood and learnt very little at school especially about anything to do with history or geography. Being able to travel and to learn about different countries and cultures is such a gift.
Gosh! I’ve missed so many wonderful posts. We fell in love with Nara. One of our favourites places in Japan. We visited in autumn and the colours were so beautiful. I enjoyed your tryst with orange. It does make a nice backdrop for most photos. 🙂
Nara is definitely one of those places which at first sight appear unexciting but which grew on us both, day by day. The scale is so manageable, making it very easy and effortless to get around. Oooh it must have been gorgeous in Autumn. There were a few trees which still had held on to their Autumn colored leaves and we could get but a glimpse of their former glory.
I visited Nara almost 30 years ago, and, judging from your pictures, not so much has changed. Love the orange buildings, prayer wall, and nature’s moss that converts stone pieces to forest delights. You are living the dream and sharing it with us!
Rusha that is great to read about Nara not looking very much different from 30 years ago! Rare today when places retain their natural charm and are not overly built up. Perhaps the fact that most travellers just stop in Nara for a day, or two at most, has saved it from over development. Ahhh that moss. We saw moss in Kyoto too of course, but nowhere was it as memorable as in Nara in the premieval forest.
“Well come to our Drinking Team” – that sign made me laugh out loud! Another wonderful, mouth-watering post. I loved the forest and temple shots and accompanying text as well. I am a huge fan of forest-bathing…ever since I was a small child and long before I knew it was a thing. Someday I must visit this fascinating country!
Thank you Peta and Ben
Deb
Deb, isn’t that sign funny! Was wondering who might catch that.
We both love being in nature ~ I grew up on a hillside next to a nature reserve (in Johannesburg, South Africa) and forests are definitely a favorite. Love how the Japanese have coined the term “forest bathing”.
I hope you do get to visit Japan one day. I sure waited a long time until it was the opportune and affordable moment!
Peta
I share your orange adoration and would have loved to walk upon your vermillion-clad staircase or gazed upon your ’40 shades of orange’ on canvas :-). But this post definitely satisfied my addiction to color for today. And what is not to love about everything Shinto! I so envy your current living situation. 5 days in Nara would be a dream. That architecture, the people, and the food; I could live on tempura and pizza! And it appears the Japanese are innovative as ever with the automation How long will you be in Kyoto once you return there?
Lisa, even though we were in Japan in the winter, the vermillion color everywhere, made up for the fact that we missed most of the Autumn colors. Five days in Nara, was amazing. I am so glad we took the time to really discover and enjoy it.
Already missing both the tempura, and all the other Japanese cuisine, and that pizza!
We spent a week in Kyoto after Nara, before returning here to Hoi An, Viet Nam. Kyoto posts upcoming soon. Stay tuned.
Nice to read you Lisa ~ so quickly too ~ are you on land?
xoxo
Peta
Peta! You look like the “spy who forgot to come in from the cold”.
What a great post. And I’m grateful to you for sharing all your journeys so I can ride along in my armchair. Great MOSS pictures.
xxxx judy
P.S. Ben, you look very dapper with the casually tossed scarf – the capuccino picture . . . not so dapper as cold.
Judy, the comment re my looking like a spy, made me laugh. I do rather! Wearing my dad’s hat, so that he can travel Japan with us!
WAIT until you see the photos of the moss in the Japanese gardens in Kyoto!! Moss is pretty much used instead of grass and it really looks incredible everywhere one sees it. (Upcoming in the next posts)
Ben looks both dapper and cold. The hot cappuccino from the vending machines, made all the difference to our cold morning starts.
xxxx
Peta
Forest bathing – don’t you just love that term?! We were talking yesterday about another trip to Japan, we are longing to see more of the country – and then I find your post, and my mouth watered. Literally. I know what you mean about eating pizza in Japan. We just found an Italian restaurant in Quy Nohn (Vietnam) and thought exactly – ‘should we’? But we did and it was so delish… Loved reading this post for so many reasons!
I do love the term forest bathing. I also like moon bathing.. both of these in term and in actuality. We were thinking about how apt the term is while we were walking through this primeval forest ~ it felt like a beautiful bath in nature. Fresh air, huge trees, sun breaking in, sacred deers, beautiful shrines… dream like.
So glad you enjoyed our post so much. Kyoto posts coming up soon. I really loved Japan, it was an amazing trip!
Peta
An unhurried 5 days. What a treat. I think you found out a Nara that not many get to do, except through your lovely posts! This one seemed more relaxed too — was it the forest bathing? I love the moss on those stone lanterns, I bet that is centuries old too. I want some!
It WAS a wonderful treat. A slow unwinding of a special place. By staying longer than a few days, it allowed Nara, to reveal itself and “grow” on us at an unhurried pace. We saw a wonderful museum in Nara Park as we were park ~ world class Buddhist scupltures museum.
The moss was just something special. And then when we got to Kyoto, we saw that moss is a distinct feature of Japanese gardens. Beautiful photos upcoming soon.
Thanks for the lovely feedback Johnny. Hear you are in Costa Rica these days? Hope life is treating you well.
Peta
I really enjoyed this visit to Nara. You spent more time in the town than we did, so got to explore a little more. Like most places I think, a flying visit is never enough. So cool to hear Ben speaking Japanese.
Ben thought that his Japanese would be rusty. But after the first day, it flooded back in, as though he had never left. In fact, almost every person he spoke to commented on his great accent and one man asked whether he had grown up in Japan! So that was very cool… and fantastically helpful to his language skills along with us.
We could have stayed longer even in Nara we felt there were so many more small restaurants we wanted to eat in or discover, and we just loved it. That said, our house was cold and we lucked on that front in Kyoto (upcoming post). We also saw, but did not write about, a wonderful museum with world class collection of Buddhist sculptures.
Peta
Peta
Thanks for the tour of Nara. Canberra and Nara are sister cities.
Peggy, I did not know that, how cool. Heart breaking to read about the fires in Australia… just horrific really. The tragic reality of climate change is now upon as all. I hope you and yours are safe. All that wildlife lost ~ breaks my heart.
Peta
I would love to experience Japan, Peta, but I have to do it by proxy. 🙂 🙂 Many thanks for sharing.
Glad to be your proxy and share Japan with you.
Peta
Thanks for sharing your colourful , serene, textured and spiritual experience. Colors are so powerful in creating an experience and atmosphere. This appealed to all of my senses! . We as a family love and include orange in all of our homes!! Familial!! Special you are wearing your dad’s hat!! 😘❤️
Janice nice to read your feedback and that you are on “team orange” haha. So glad you enjoyed this post, Nara will remain indelibly associated with the color orange for us as will our exploration into the world of Kaiseki cuisine.
Wearing my dads hat has me feeling as though he is along with us on our travels and adventures in Japan. So much he would have loved here. Especially the zen gardens, coming up in Kyoto.
Thanks for reading and commenting.
Peta
Hi. I loved your piece and tracking your whereabouts. Japan hasn’t been on the top of my radar but I will move it up. Thinking about traveling but feeling a bit lazy seems like Florida is still so new for me after 44 years in Montana. I guess I’ll live a few more months vicariously through you and Ben. Have you heard from Brooke?
Hi Heidi, nice to hear from you. For me, Japan was a country that I wanted to live primarily because Ben spent five years there. But in the past, the economics were just too daunting. Getting two home exchanges and a cheap flight from the U.S. made it the opportune moment. I would be back in a dash, even if just for the food!
Florida I’m sure is quite a different culture to Montana. Glad to hear you are enjoying discovering it.
(Yes, am in constant contact with Brook ~ doing v well in Goa.)
Peta
Peta
What a great place to visit. I too love the colour vermilion and enjoyed learning that it wards off evil and disease. Your photos and descriptions are enticing as always and you both look so relaxed and at home. I loved the chip of Ben speaking Japanese. For a number of years, we had Japanese homestay students live with us. They tried to teach me Japanese but I am hopeless at learning languages. I did learn to love the Japanese culture though. The girls called us their Canadian parents. They were delightful.
Darlene, just for the record, if it makes you feel any better, Japanese is an extremely hard language to learn. Maybe not as bad as Vietnamese is, but certainly up there! Add to that, yes Ben has an affinity for languages.
Thanks for the compliment on the photos and narrative. Japanese felt totally comfortable in almost every regard and certainly for Ben it did feel very familiar. One of the things in Japan that surely makes visitors feel relaxed is the fact that it is so safe and no one steals. So you never have to watch your back. And then, the daily regiment of hot baths to warm up, super relaxing.
Peta
I love that they have preserved so much of Japan’s history in Nara! (And especially the green spaces.) I love visiting just about any historical site, because it’s like a peek into the past. But I’m curious why a country as crowded as Japan has a declining work force? Is it simply due to aging? In that case, will the population of the country decrease overall? Just curious!
Ann, good question. There are three separate factors which contribute to the perfect storm for Japan’s demographic crisis.
1) The Japanese like the rest of the world, are living longer. Always the leaders in longevity in the world, there are now so many centenarians that the government had to abandon a multi decade practice of awarding a gold coin/medal to those that live to 100 years old!
2) Because of the work force centric organisation of Japanese society, the average number of children per couple, has been below 2,0 for a long time, meaning, less children and not replenishing the population.
3) Japan has not adopted immigration policies like Europe, U.S., Canada and Australia that historically have contributed to a growing work force. The only significant foreign population in Japan has historically been Korean, but Japan has consistently failed to find ways to integrate foreigners in its work force and community at large.
Therefore, YES, the population will decrease and get older, thereby forcing Japan either to dramatically change it’s immigration policies (highly unlikely) or, to embrace automation in a drastic way, which is precisely what they are doing. (Robots in hospitals, homes for cleaning tasks,)
We can look forward to tremendous innovation coming from Japan, i the area of robotics and artificial intelligence, in the support of an ageing society.
Ben
Now I think Japan is the most exotic place you’ve written about. How lucky to have a virtual native speaker as your guide. Fantastic post.
Thanks Sharon! High compliment indeed.
More exotic than India? Beg to differ 🙂 But wait until you see our posts on Kyoto!!!
My boyfriend continues to provide unusual benefits. His language skills were off the charts….. Great benefit.
xoxo
P
I love the bright colors of the temples too, and the detailed artistry that can be found everywhere – even the roof tiles. You are right that it is so impressive that the shrines have been able to protect the natural landscapes surrounding them. The food looks awesome and I’m glad to hear the pizza tasted as good as it looks. You really just never know until you try something for yourself. The vending machines are such a cool feature of everyday life in Japan. I wonder if that type of technology will come our way at some point. Given how much we now interact with machines in our daily lives (checking ourselves out at grocery stores, etc), I wouldn’t be surprised if we start seeing more and more stuff like that… for better or worse.
Laura, yes, no doubt, automation is coming your way! That is what the “internet of things” is also about. Interactive machines that track our every movement and every need to allegedly provide assistance across our daily activities. Whether the vending machine becomes as prevalent (and varied in its offerings) in the West is also a function of space, not just labor. Space being such a premium in Japan, the delivery of stuff to be sold by vending machine requires far less space and money than a shop does. The U.S./Canada/Australia…. are not space constrained the way Japan is. Maybe Europe will see more vending machines sooner, as they are also more constrained than the U.S. etc.
Ben
You’re making me hungry again! Now, here’s the big question (but I think I know the answer already): do they have vending machines with fresh breads of different varieties in Japan, like they do in Belgium? 🙂
Liesbet, that is a great question.
Sadly, we did not run into a baguette delivering vending machine while in Japan. Definitely room for improvement 🙂 Onigiri (triangular rice pockets with crispy nori seaweed, yes, and sandwiches seem popular but no baguette.
However, since we were intrigued, we took a peak at Japan’s history with bread and it is an interesting one. In 2011, the per capita consumption of bread in Japan exceeded for the first time ever, the per capita consumption of rice. An existential crisis for a rice growing country. Take a look at this article on bread history in Japan:
https://allabout-japan.com/en/article/4557/
Ben
Thanks for that, Ben. I can’t help but think that bread seems out of place in a country like Japan. It feels a-cultural, if that’s a word. 🙂
Ah well, fusion of cultures is the new norm these days.
One day in Kyoto we came across a tiny bakery with freshly baked walnut and fig nut bread. Ahhh, even in Japan, a-cultural or not, we went for it….
Ben’s favorite croissant in the entire world, and this coming from a Frenchman who has had more than his share of croissant, was Auroville, India!! A dusty town that is the remnant of some long gone French Colonialist presence in Pondicherry.
I so enjoy “slow travel” and staying put in one place (especially a smaller place) for a while, so your stay in Nara seems idyllic to me. (As you know, our upcoming trip to Asia will be just the opposite – an overview of a number of places, but sometimes the trip has to morph to fit the time and travelers!) With deer and those mossy forests, Nara had already captured my attention, but throw in that pizza, and I’m ready to book a trip!
Lex, if we have the choice, we definitely have now put in a self imposed ideal of no less than 5 days in a place. Of course, that’s not always possible, but it’s definitely our preferred mode these days.
First impressions of Nara, had us wondering if we had made the right decision to get a home exchange for five days.. but after the first couple of days, it became clear, that because we had that extra time we could really experience our neighborhood to the full without feeling stressed for time, which was very nice indeed.
Japanese food was way beyond my expectation, and I have loved Japanese food for 20 years, but that pizza, is right up there!
See you soon!!!
P
Mmmm, those mouthwatering photos of food! I love Japanese food, but have never had it in Japan. Must go there!
As a child, orange was my favourite colour (but now as an adult I have many favourites) and orange is also my grandson’s favourite colour. I love that glorious photo of the persimmon tree.
The large tree in the Kasugayama primeval forest photo looks like it might be a cedar? Are there cedar trees in Japan?
Jude
I have been looking forward to visiting Japan primarily for the food, for a long time now. It was definitely worth the wait, as the variety and quality of the cuisine is exceptional.
It was fun to see the persimmon fruit growing on the trees and as well, to see it in dried form, and drying ~ hanging outside homes. Persimmon is a special treat for New Year.
Yes, there are cedar trees in Japan, for sure. Whether this photo shows one, of that I am not as sure… 🙂
Thanks for reading us!
Peta
I am forever learning when I visit your blog. I had never thought about why orange is so prominent in areas of japan. Well that makes perfect sense. As to the vending machines that must be the Olympic winner of variety. Fresh eggs and hot cappuccino. Wouldn’t it be intriguing to see the inner workings?
Thanks Sue. We are forever learning when we travel and so we try to not be just a travelogue but to share some insights. Ah that cappuccino vending machine saved us many a day. A lot of cafes and restaurants only opened at 11 in Nara, and so not many options there, not good for a coffee addict such as Ben.
Peta
We’ve never been to Japan, but if we were to go places like the grounds of that Shinto temple would be high on the list. The crowded chaos of the bigger cities? Not so much. But who knows, you may change my mind with Kyoto.
Ah Dave you have a treat coming, with Kyoto. Bear in mind we are travelling during winter when crowds are way less than in season.
However, one interesting thing to note is that in Japan one has to adjust to a different reality of what constitutes “crowded”, as the population density is such that “very crowded” is the norm, and we just talking locals ~ most of whom would go to the gardens, the temple etc on a regular basis.
Peta
How wonderful to travel vicariously with you to Japan. Everything looks so different and interesting. The food really appeals to my taste buds and looks so healthy, even the pizza. Are the sardines on the pizza, what I know as anchovies? You both look so amazing dressed up for the cold and I especially love your hat, Peta. Ben’s scarf looks really dashing too and how wonderful that his Japanese is so perfect. Thanks so much for your photos. I almost felt I was there with you. xx
Sylvia thanks for your overwhelming enthusiasm on this post! The food was definitely both delicious and healthy. The sardines on the pizza are sardines indeed, not anchovies. A wonderful and unusual addition to a pizza, I might add.
We had a very limited wardrobe from cold weather, after our stay in Chicago where it was literally freezing. But yes, I know, most unusual to see us in jackets and scarves and so on and frankly we both prefer to be barefoot and in t shirts. I loved having my dad’s hat with me.. and it really did keep me warm.
Peta
I’m glad you got in some forest bathing. I’ve been reading a lot about that concept lately and couldn’t agree more about the benefits of walking in the forest. Those stone lanterns and the dappled sun and moss sure make a soothing scene. It’s great that you were able to immerse yourself in the pleasures of Nara.
Forests do seem to have that unique quality that re energizes and calms the soul. Nothing new here of course, because Druids, the medicine men of Europe at the time of the Romans, were all about nature and “forest bathing” although they didn’t quite call it that. The Japanese coined the branding.
Ben
I so enjoyed joining you and Ben in this visit to Nara, Peta. You offer a wonderfully comprehensive look at the Japanese lifestyle through the photos and narrative. The shrines, forest, urban settings, food, street scenes. Past integrated with the present, too. Interesting about the shrinking workforce and how they have automated the restaurant scene while still offering incredible foods. Thanks for this visit, much appreciated.
Thanks Jet for your positive feedback. Japan has to be one of the most organised societies out there and after all, they introduced the world to the concept of “continuous improvement” in industrial settings and so it is baked into all businesses large and small, to look for opportunities to improve the customer experience while automating tasks.
B&P
Ah…slow travel is the way to go! And you two do it so well. I love your walking explorations and all of the details and observations that you include. The temple is gorgeous, and the orange roof and doors provide welcome brightness in the winter landscape. We always have touches of vermillion orange in our home, so now I know it’s a very good thing! And the food looks fabulous, pizza included (which has a delicate, appealing look—very Japanese, for pizza, lol!).
Laurel, the funny thing about slow travel is that we have a similar experience almost every time, which is initially thinking, “ok we don’t need to be here that long, we could leave sooner” and then, as we slow down and adjust our pace and start to get comfortable in our neighborhood, the more it grows on us and the more we appreciate and see.
Something about that color of vermillion orange that just brightens a room, or a forest, or a face ( I now have vermillion/red glasses). I like how you phrased that… “welcome brightness in the winter landscape”.
Almost all food in Japan has an appealing look as the Japanese firmly believe that the aesthetics of food augment the dining experience.
Peta
Peta, I love when I see photos of you. I mean, you empower me! And that hat!
What a gorgeous place.
I adore the idea of vending machines w/ fresh eggs! WOWWWW.
Love Love love from MN. xx
Kim, nice to read you again! Well thank you for the lovely compliments….. The hat is from my dad, so has special significance for me.
Ben was just happy to have cappuccino on demand, as most places only opened at 11 in the mornings in Nara. Thank goodness for the vending machines!
Love to you in MN xoxox
P
A faith and culture dedicated to protecting nature – now that’s a great thought! Seems intuitive yet modern life is evidence that it is not. I also love the color orange – so vivacious and happy, and now to learn that it’s a defense against evil. I’m enchanted by the moss growing on monuments, by trees growing into the sky, by calligraphy splashed on everything, arranged to create its own art. But if most of us visited Japan, this is not the country we’re likely to see, so I thank you for generously sharing your unique perspective.
Sharon I was enchanted too. Perhaps it’s novelty that can enchant us….Going to Japan was a harder “sell” for Ben, with his having lived in Japan for five years Once one dives deeper by living in a country for an extended period of time, one gets all sorts of different insights. A difference experience entirely. Ben was amused at how positive I was and at how enamoured of the whole experience….
The whole focus on nature and on aesthetics and mindfulness, was unlike any other country we have been to and oh it gets even more interesting once we get to Kyoto (posts upcoming).
About the “unique perspective”… what is interesting is that, when we go to countries that are not on most people’s radar (Cambodia, Myanmar, Laos, Indonesia…) our experience stands on its own… whereas when visiting countries that people are more familiar with, such as Japan, our slow travel approach and perspective comes through as more obviously distinct.
Thank you for the lovely comments and for reading our Green Global Trek.
Peta
Hi again. Your posts are so fascinating because of both the detail and the wonderful photos. I figure all the walking keeps you both trim in spite of all that eating! Was the pizza conventional or with a Japanese twist? I so love the shrines and the green areas. I live in an Apartment now, but look out at woods where I see deer and turkeys and rabbits along with many birds. There are blooming trees in the spring and lovely colors in the fall. I don’t think I could flourish without forests. Love the ideal of forest bathing! This is the best “Peek” at Japan I’ve had. My son visited there, but was mostly in the large cities. My brother spent a longer time and went all over quite a few years ago. He is six ft. three so he attracted a lot of attention in the tiny villages. He isn’t nearly as good as you are at getting such wonderful variety of photos. Thanks so much for letting us travel with you!
Hi Eileen, nice to know you are reading us.
The pizza had some unexpected “twists”, though I am not sure they would qualify as uniquely Japanese. One pizza featured local/regional root vegetables, also known in Japan as Mountain vegetables. And another featured sardines, not something I have ever seen on a pizza before.
How wonderful to live in place that has such good view over nature and wildlife. Access to or view of nature is always a key criterion as we select a place to live.
Glad you enjoyed the peek into our version of Japan.
Peta and Ben
Smiling at the end with your “best pizza – anywhere.” I wonder why. Because it’s in Japan and unexpected? Photo does make my mouth water. ORANGE, never ever knew the benefits and believes of orange. I’ve never been driven toward that color, but I may have to rethink my focus. And forest bathing – what a lovely forest with the lanterns lighting the way. Of course, humans all over the world have hiked/walked/”bathed” in their local forests (I live near Henry David Thoreau’s forest, where he brought walking and living in the woods to a higher form), but I appreciate the way the Japanese have brought back into focus the joys/necessities of walking in nature for the goodness and health of the soul.
Hi Pamela,
The pizza was uniquely good in its own right, and not just appearing that good because of the surprise element of being in Japan. Made with home grown organic veggies, lots of love, and the highest grade imported olive oil and other ingredients. A thin crispy crust that was to die for…
Love the fact that you brought Thoreau’s forest into this blog. YES! Of course walking in forests is not new and we, in the West, have Thoreau to thank for elevating forest appreciation into our consciousness. Thoreau’s contribution concretized through his 1854 essay Walden: Or, Life in the Woods. Shinto, the original Japanese religion before Buddhism took hold, dates back to about 1000 BCE and had forest gods at its core.
What the Japanese have done since 1980 is to provide both a scientific basis to document the health benefits of forest bathing, as well as an organizational basis by recognizing through law and government policy, the establishment of what they call “Forest Therapy Bases (FTB)”.
As the article below explains, the Japanese government established 48 Forestry Trails (now 62) where the health impact on forest “bathers” was studied. A professor at Nippon Medical School in Tokyo, measured the activity of human natural killer (NK) cells in the immune system before and after exposure to the woods. These cells provide rapid responses to viral-infected cells and respond to tumor formation, and are associated with immune system health and cancer prevention. In a 2009 study Li’s subjects showed significant increases in NK cell activity in the week after a forest visit, and positive effects lasted a month following each weekend in the woods.
https://qz.com/804022/health-benefits-japanese-forest-bathing/amp/
What is intriguing to us is that the Japanese approach to this “forest bathing”, called shinrin-yoku, is “codified”. As one enters the 62 Forest Therapy Bases, one is instructed to turn off all electronics, not to try and excercise, or track how many steps taken… It is more of a passive approach of allowing the forest to do its thing, i.e. to impact directly our parasympathetic system as a result of the trees’ secretions.
As the next study demonstrated: “The team measured the subjects’ salivary cortisol (which increases with stress), blood pressure, pulse rate, and heart rate variability during a day in the city and compared those to the same biometrics taken during a day with a 30-minute forest visit. “Forest environments promote lower concentrations of cortisol, lower pulse rate, lower blood pressure, greater parasympathetic nerve activity, and lower sympathetic nerve activity than do city environments” .
As yoga practitioners, it was interesting to note that “Back in the United States, popular enthusiasm for the health benefits of time in nature has grown exponentially; proponents have described the forest bathing trend as analogous to “where Yoga was 30 years ago.”
OK, this is surely more than you wanted to know, but this research surrounding forest bathing is new to us and reading that there is more than “cute branding” and that there is now a scientific underpinning took our experience to a different level.
So yes… more forest walking in our future and… going to read up on Thoreau’s writings.
Ben and Peta
We did a couple of forest walks near to Tokyo. The scenery was spectacular there too.
Thats good to know….I only spent 16 hours in Tokyo some years back, a layover, so not enough time to really explore.
Peta
Five days in Nara sounds nice. Staying overnight, you can outflank the daytrippers from Kyoto and Osaka. We had the giant buddha to ourselves for about 15 minutes before the buses arrived 🙂
I’m not surprised the Japanese made a great pizza – they do everything well.
Nara was not crowded at all… the more time we spent there the more we enjoyed and appreciated it.
Very true that “they do everything well”!
Peta
It is wonderful when countries and cultures preserve and protect historic areas. This is the first time I have heard about the colour vermillion orange and the significance of this colour. I don’t think it is a colour we see often in homes here. Fascinating how the two of you had orange in your home in Chicago. I suspect the stone lanterns still light up? I like everything about Forest Bathing. I read once how the trees emit oils that are therapeutic and part of the health benefits. The paper prayers remind me of an area we visited in Christ Church, NZ commemorating the people that lost their lives in the Earthquake. This area also was a wall of origami. I greatly appreciate all of the photos! An amazing post, once again, Peta and Ben. Thank you!
Interestingly, different countries and cultures have different colors which have meaning and significance. For instance, in some cultures, white represents innocence, but in others, it can represent death. Red is the most powerful of all colors in Indian culture and holds many important meanings. Among them are fear and fire, wealth and power, purity, fertility, seduction, love, and beauty. Purple represents nobility in most Asian cultures. However, it’s a symbol of mourning in Thailand and in most Middle East countries purple represents wealth.
The stone lanterns are lit up at night on special occasions and holidays.
Fascinating about the added aromatherapy benefits of forests.
Thank you Erica. So glad you enjoyed this post!
Peta
Very interesting how the different colours have different meanings in different cultures. I good reminder to continue learning about various cultures and to not make any assumptions. Thank you, again, Peta!
Erica, it IS always interesting yes, to dig deeper beyond the surface when we can. Especially in cultures that are different to our own. Therein lies one of the best parts of travel. I was an awful student during my childhood and learnt very little at school especially about anything to do with history or geography. Being able to travel and to learn about different countries and cultures is such a gift.
Peta
Gosh! I’ve missed so many wonderful posts. We fell in love with Nara. One of our favourites places in Japan. We visited in autumn and the colours were so beautiful. I enjoyed your tryst with orange. It does make a nice backdrop for most photos. 🙂
Nara is definitely one of those places which at first sight appear unexciting but which grew on us both, day by day. The scale is so manageable, making it very easy and effortless to get around. Oooh it must have been gorgeous in Autumn. There were a few trees which still had held on to their Autumn colored leaves and we could get but a glimpse of their former glory.
Peta
I visited Nara almost 30 years ago, and, judging from your pictures, not so much has changed. Love the orange buildings, prayer wall, and nature’s moss that converts stone pieces to forest delights. You are living the dream and sharing it with us!
Rusha that is great to read about Nara not looking very much different from 30 years ago! Rare today when places retain their natural charm and are not overly built up. Perhaps the fact that most travellers just stop in Nara for a day, or two at most, has saved it from over development. Ahhh that moss. We saw moss in Kyoto too of course, but nowhere was it as memorable as in Nara in the premieval forest.
Peta