Kyoto Treasures ~ Onsen, ryokan, byobu and yakitori (Part 2)

GreenGlobalTrek Japan 61 Comments

With our trip winding down soon, seeing as we both have jobs waiting for us in Viet Nam, there are a few things we still have on our “must do” or “must eat” list, and onsen is at the top of the list.

Onsen

Onsen are hot baths from natural hot springs, typically rich with minerals. We start to do a bit of research to find out where we will have our onsen experience. In this region, it appears that the majority of the onsen are connected with traditional guesthouses, called ryokan. One needs to stay at the ryokan in order to use their onsen. The ryokan, are anywhere from $200 a night per person, and going up from there! Unfortunately not within our budget. Therefore, we are trying to find a public (day rate) onsen, that does not entail an overnight stay. Few and far between, but we manage to find one.

On the edge of the river that runs through Arashiyama, lies our destination.

As we walk toward the Onsen, we see people wearing traditional kimonos. They may be real Kyotoites, who appreciate their history and want to keep the kimono culture alive. Kyotoite women wear their kimonos on special occasions or holidays in and about town. Or they may be tourists wearing kimonos, who have taken to wearing them, as part of their travel experience. Sometimes it can be hard to tell which is which. However, if one sees men dressed up as well, as in the photo above, in traditional outfits, that is a dead giveaway that they are tourists. There is a whole industry around kimono rental which is very popular, especially amongst Koreans and Chinese.
We have chosen an overcast day to go to the onsen, so that we keep the sunny days for our garden and temple explorations. What better than a hot steamy soak on a grey, chilly winter’s day…
There are lots of rules in general in Japan, but in the onsen there is clear guidance on the DO’s and DON’Ts. One definitely needs to take the time to read these, rules so as to not offend locals who are the primary users.

One goes through a few process steps before actually getting inside the baths. First there is an entrance ticket to be bought at the vending machine, as well as a variety of optional tickets: one for a towel, one for a 15 minute foot massage afterwards, one for locker keys for storage.

There are separate baths for men and for women. If you have a tattoo, you are not allowed entrance as tattoos are associated with the yakuza (the powerful Japanese mafia). Ok, we are fine on that count, no tattoos.

Next, we go into the locker area where we leave our clothes and belongings. I can see the area where the baths are, but barely, as the steam from the water has misted up the glass entrance. Once in, I see that there are old women, young women, women of all ages, and some young girls. All butt naked, and unperturbed, thankfully, by my arrival at their local bath.

I find the place to shower off. I sit on the small stool to soap up and wash off by pouring a bucket of hot water over my head, just like I see others doing. I get my cues by watching some of the women, as I want to make sure that I follow the correct protocol here. This is definitely not an activity to be rushed, but rather one to move through mindfully.

There are two baths, one very large, one smaller and more opaque looking ~ probably a salt bath. Beyond these inside baths, I see what I am looking for, as my ultimate destination, the outdoor tub… but first I dip into the main tub with a few older women who are sitting at the edges. They all have a wet rag on their heads and I did not get one of those. Okay, hopefully not a critical faux pas. Japanese women, compared to Westerners, are all on the slim side, no matter their age, and all appear toned, even the more senior women. (No cellulite here…) I assume this is due to the diet, which is known as one of the healthiest in the world.

I put my feet in to test the heat. Ahhh, it feels so good. Not too hot for me (accustomed to and lover of hot springs and hot water in general) and I slide right in. I immediately feel relaxed. I know that one cannot spend too long in hot spring water, as it can make you feel exhausted if you overdo it.

Okay, now, how to make it outside without freezing my butt off and with as much grace as possible, given the absence of towels and the cold air that awaits.

Meanwhile I am wondering how Ben is faring, on the men’s side….

Ben: I have gone to many onsens before, when I lived in Nagoya and Tokyo, and therefore I know that I have three specific hurdles to overcome. First of all, my girth, (I am not usually overly self conscious about my weight, but being naked with Japanese guys I am painfully aware I am from a different species) ~ Secondly, the hairlessness of Japanese men makes me feel like a hairy beast, even though by Western standards I definitely am not. And finally, unlike Peta I don’t particularly like very hot water. So my best strategy for the first two issues, would be to enter the water quickly…. but the very hot (for me) water, makes that impossible. My best option here therefore is to remove my glasses. If I don’t see anyone, no one will see me and I can enter slowly so as to adjust to the heat ~ oh, the tricks the human mind plays….

After I (Peta) soak in the main indoor tub for a while until I am sufficiently saturated with heat, I walk outside into the cold air and just when I start to feel the chill of the winter air, I enter the outdoor tub. The two women who are there, eventually leave, and finally I have the outdoor onsen all to myself for a few minutes. I look around me at the rocks, the air, the steam and soak it all in.

One more stop, the sauna. Here I have a moment of panic. I can’t work out how to open the door to get out (being not a very technical person)… I know I won’t last much longer trapped inside this suffocating heat. Okay breathe. Whew, I finally figure it out. From the sauna into the freezing cold tub for a quick dunk. I saw an elderly woman (around 80) do the sauna to cold routine and stay submerged in the freezing water for a few minutes, quite impressive, but no doubt an acquired skill.

After about an hour, we reunite at the communal tatami resting room which overlooks a small garden. There are massage chairs which we use while we wait to be called for our foot massage. Hot spring bath followed by massage chair, followed by foot massage ~ man, life is good!

Sitting on the floor is a huge part of Japanese culture and to me it is definitely more comfortable than long periods in a chair, which is something I struggle with.
Feeling super relaxed after our onsen experience, we make our way back across the river, with the mountains as a back drop.
We both love cold soba noodles. Perfect light lunch to follow the onsen.

Ryokan

As our stay in Japan starts to wind to a close, we have but a couple days left to prioritise how we want to spend our time. When it comes to New Year’s Eve, neither of us are big fans of going out to join the frenzied crowds. We are looking for a peaceful way to close out 2019 and welcome in the new decade. It would be great to spend our New Year’s Eve in a ryokan.

Ryokans are guest houses, and Japan is famous for them. Not just any kind of guest house. Ryokans encompass a history steeped in tradition of beautiful surroundings, fine dining and futons (Japanese thick and hard mattresses) which are rolled out on tatami (straw mat) floors. But what to do? These are the same ryokans that house most of the onsens and start at $200 a person and up from there. Worth it, to be sure, but not on our budget.

After some searching, we finally find a low cost ryokan. None of the trappings such as the five course gourmet meal served in a tatami room, or an onsite onsen.. but no matter, we have had both those experiences already.

We leave our little home exchange house in Kyoto and make our way to my first ryokan, for New Year’s Eve. A mini vacation away from our temporary Kyoto residence…

Sleeping on a futon on a tatami (straw mat) is way more comfortable than I expected and has the fun feel of a high school sleep over. The shoji (paper screens) open up onto a very pretty view of a small Japanese garden. It feels peaceful and just the kind of New Year’s Eve setting we were hoping to have.
The ryokan is at the foot of a hill and is surrounded by a gorgeous garden in traditional style with stone lanterns, carefully manicured trees, rocks and moss.
Only in Japan are the picnic tables and stools made from ceramics.
There are a few clusters of ryokan tatami rooms (bedrooms) with shared bathroom and a short walk to the ryokan restaurant.
The restaurant too faces onto its own internal traditional garden.
A close up of one of the beautiful curved trees. (Keep this image in mind, as you see the beautiful paintings of trees in Japanese gardens, from the 16th century, on sliding screens below.)

Byobu

We wake up on January 1st, 2020 to our tranquil rock garden view, after a good night’s sleep on our futons. For our first excursion of 2020, we decide to take a bus to Philosopher’s Path on the other side of the city.

We never make it there.

The city bus winds through multiple neighbourhoods, and … we can’t resist the opportunity to spontaneously jump off the bus, when we spot an interesting temple along the side of the road. One look at each other and we pull on the cord for the bus to stop.

The unpredictability of spontaneous decisions when we go exploring is what often yields all sorts of discoveries. In this case, a large estate with multiple temples, pagodas, gardens, ponds….

There are two massive wooden sculptures that guard the gates to this temple compound. Hard to see in the photo but these guys are huge. Around 20 feet tall, with ferocious eyes. Impressive warriors that would have indeed scared off intruders.
One of several temples and pagodas, all in a beautiful park like setting. In spring this is a popular destination for cherry blossom viewing. But today in winter, there are just a few locals enjoying a leisurely stroll and we love the peace and lack of crowds. Great way for us to launch 2020.

Inside one of the buildings within the temple complex, we stumble across a significant collection of byobu (painted murals on screens) from the 16th century.

Byobu, we learn, were not merely works of artistic expression. Hundreds of these screens were sent to both China and Korea as diplomatic gifts. For example, in the 16th century, when Japan began to develop an adversarial relationship with Korea, byobu with designs of mighty Japanese Samurai warriors, were sent, as a way to subtly instill fear in the recipients, the rulers of Korea at the time. The art form of painting on screens served to deliver a diplomatic and not so subtle message.

Trees, nature and bird life are depicted in hundreds of boybu (sliding panelled screens) that separate tatami rooms in traditional Japanese residences of the Imperial household and the merchant class. This mural is painted in a way which just shows a section of the trees. The image gives the feel of being within a garden with trees all around, or looking through a large window at the trees outside.
This painted tree wraps around the corner, and flows across six byobu screen panels. One only sees a section of the tree, which is depicted at an unusual angle and completely communicates how large the tree is by way of the wide trunk and far reaching branches.
The white heron (to the right) is a recurring visual on many nature themed painted murals.
This sideways tree, has a modern feel and instantly takes us back to all the gardens we have seen on our trip, both in Nara and here in Kyoto where tree branches are so often carefully propped up.

We get back on another bus, with the intent to make it to Philosophers Path. But yet again, more temples and gardens along the route beckon us off the bus, and in the end we decide to let that “plan” go, as we are happily enjoying the leisurely strolls that have come our way.

Yakitori

For our last meal in Kyoto we opt for the humble neighborhood yakitori bar. A yakitori bar, is all about grilled bites on small sticks and beer or sake to wash it all down.

A non-descript kind of a place that one would easily pass by on the street without a second glance. Luckily Ben spots the word yakitori on the second red lantern. (Yakitori was on our list of Japanese foods to eat while we are here.)
Bar seats and a few tables and one cook, server, master entertainer, dish washer and owner. Yakitori bars typically serve a loyal clientele from the neighborhood that return week after week, year after year. It’s fast, it’s cheap and it’s good! Each yakitori bar has it’s own variety of sticks.
Most yakitori entails grilled chicken, pork, organs and so on. But many of them and certainly this one, have a nice offering of vegetarian options. Potatoes, mushrooms, okra, shishito peppers, and onions.

And so we wrap up our Japan trip, reflect on our rather tumultuous year 2019, and look forward to getting back to the sunshine in Viet Nam after being gone for 2 months. We say Sayonara Kyoto, and welcome 2020!

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61 thoughts on “Kyoto Treasures ~ Onsen, ryokan, byobu and yakitori (Part 2)”

  2. Gilda Baxter

    I love this post and it made me laugh so much at the “okay, now, how to make it outside without freezing my butt off and with as much grace as possible”… so funny. I love the his and hers experiences of the “Onsen”. Kyoto is a place I would love to visit, and yes staying in a ryokan would be amazing. Delightful post!!

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thanks Gilda.. Haha. It’s one thing to get naked in a room full of Western women, and quite another when you in are clearly the “odd woman out”. Certainly worth the plunge!
      Glad you liked the “his and hers” experiences of the Onsen.

      Peta

      Reply
  3. Sylvia

    This is such an amazing and engrossing post, Peta. Thanks to Ben for the laughs he provided regarding his feelings as he ventured into the Onsen, Peta, I would have panicked if I’d got stuck inside the sauna. On more than one occasion,I have had the misfortune of choosing the public toilet with the door that won’t open again without a LOT of persuasion. 😯 Those skewers at the Yakitori bar look so delicious that your photo made my mouth water. What a wonderful Japanese adventure you’ve both enjoyed. May 2020 bring you more exciting travels. xx

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Thanks Sylvia.

      For a moment in the sauna there, I thought they would come and find me piled up in a melted heap on the floor. Shower knobs often perplex me, this however was the first time that a door created confusion and an actual risk.

      Ben really loves yakitori. For me, I enjoyed it but it’s definitely not my favorite Japanese food as it is mostly meat centric. In this case, I was lucky that the cook had an assortment of vegetables as well, as I don’t really fancy eating liver, and chicken knuckles, even though Ben assured me it was delicious. (I don’t eat much meat at the best of times…)

      Off to a good start in 2020.

      Peta

      Reply
  5. Sue Slaght

    I laughed so hard at Ben’s description of himself in comparison to the Japanese men I snorted. Peta did you ever find out about the rag on the head? It does look very relaxing, well as long as no protocols are broken.
    While in Turkey two female friends and I managed to end up in a co-ed hamman. I do believe we broke every possible protocol and had absolutely no idea what we should or should not do.At one point I was over come with giggling, which I assure you the Turkish gentleman were not happy with.

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Haha Sue. Ben had been to Onsen many times back when he lived in Japan and had some associated “trauma” with earlier memories of going there with his work peers. (Which is completely normal for Japanese business men.) They did more than snort, outright laughter and making fun of the white boy.

      We have been to the hammam in Turkey and in Morocco, but never a co-ed one! Yup, giggling or laughing while in a space where everyone is nude, hmm I could see where that might be problematic. Too funny.

      Peta

      Reply
  7. Pamela

    Loved touring with you two on this post. I love the giggles as well that many of us shared. I find that as I get older I share Ben’s attitude: “if I don’t wear my glasses, no one will see me.” Seems to work every time. Also, it’s nice to know that men sometimes are wary of how they do or don’t “fit in” with another group of men. I thought only women did that. All in all, a nice bathing trip. But I did find myself holding my breath with Peta when she wasn’t sure how to open the door to get out. That’s a nightmare waiting to happen.
    Your New Year’s Eve and New Year’s day celebration were perfect. My guy and I are the same – stay away from the crowds and find a way to celebrate quietly, together, in a serene place. In our case, it was in front of our fireplace with some red wine as we made and listened to beautiful music together. To all the ways we find warmth, love and happiness in this new decade! xo

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Pam we both so enjoyed your feedback on this post. I think that when one is naked in a different country and in close proximity with other naked bodies, when you are different, by culture and color and other factors, it’s very different to a regular experience of being naked with others.

      Re the sauna door. Oy. There was no one around and I knew that I had to get out quickly… definitely nightmare material. Whew.

      Ahhh that sounds like our kind of New Year’s Eve.

      Peta

      Reply
  8. Tracey Bacic

    Oh, these all sound like such great experiences. I am putting them all on my list for our next trip to Japan (sometime). I love Ben’s idea of invisibility – what a lot of confidence that could give!

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Tracey.. sometimes wearing glasses has a distinct advantage, over those who don’t. Another example is when one doesn’t want to see something, in Ben’s case, if anyone cuts themselves he is way too squeamish.

      Peta

      Reply
  9. The Eternal Traveller

    I was lucky to visit Japan with my sister who speaks Japanese and lived in Osaka for a few years. So when it came time to visit the onsen attached to our Airbnb apartment, she knew all the protocols. That first few seconds being totally naked in front of a whole lot of strangers was daunting but after that I loved it. It sounds like you managed to figure it all out beautifully.

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Yes, Ben knew the protocols but it had been some time since he was in an Onsen, but also, with men and women being separate, I didn’t get the benefit of his step by step instructions as I might have if it was co-ed. Without Ben’s speaking Japanese, it would have been hard to even buy the vending machine tickets, as everything was in Japanese.

      Yup, five seconds of awkwardness, especially when one first enters, and then after that, it’s totally worth the initial moments of discomfort.

      Peta

      Reply
  11. Laura

    You are very brave. I’m not sure I would be comfortable going into public baths by myself… especially the whole “naked” part. LOL. It sure does sound relaxing otherwise. And your night at the ryokan sounds fabulous. Love the gardens right outside your room and near the restaurant. I agree about the values of spontaneity, too. Some of our best experiences have been the ones we never planned. We just pulled the cord and walked outside and found incredible stuff. I’m glad you guys had such a fabulous time in Japan. Thanks for taking us with you!

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Laura, it’s interesting that even though our ryokan was at the very low end of the ryokan range, nonetheless, the fundamentals of the tatami room and beautiful gardens were there. One day when we have more $ to spare, we will have to go back and do a high end ryokan as well. Why not?

      Even this trip was a spontaneous one, as we made plans and bought tickets just a week before we left. We were in the U.S. when we heard about the dengue in Danang which is near us, and decided to add a stop to our return. A meaningful and affordable stop. So glad we did. Also the value of spontaneity is that there is no investment ahead of time with regards to time, effort, logistics, and so it is all on the upside, by definition.

      Peta

      Reply
  12. Yvonne Daniel

    This post is my all time favorite. I love Japanese gardens and it was absolutely thrilling to see the lovely gardens where you stayed and of those you visited. I also got quite a kick out of the bath experience and I am sure, which you both will treasure for a long time.

    The photos are wonderful and as I have stated before your travel experiences are very educational. I don’t believe that you miss much when you write about the places that you deem worthy to visit.

    Reply
  13. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

    Yvonne, thanks for keeping up with our adventures. Your all time favorite!? Wow, glad this post was such a hit with you.

    Our travel experiences are great educational vehicles for us. Especially perhaps me, as I was a lousy student at school because I really do learn by doing. Reading about things like history and geography only really come to live once I am in the place.

    Peta

    Reply
  14. suzanne

    Thanks for sharing more of your time in Japan. You guys are the poster children of exotic experiences. I know it’s just life for you, but for the rest of us it’s pretty amazing.

    Reply
    1. greenglobaltrek

      Suzanne, it was not long ago that we were living in Chicago, raising four teenage boys and dreaming of a more nomadic lifestyle in “exotic” places. We realised that dream once the youngest son left for college and we started our adventure by moving to Nicaragua in Central America. We have not looked back since.

      Pleased that you are enjoying reading about our Green Global Trek.

      Peta

      Reply
  15. Judith Westerfield

    I know you both to be for liberty, and the bare truth so am surprised by the censorship. I will take you at your word that indeed both of you took a “bath” since the ONLY pictures are of you fully clothed . . . ?
    xxxx judy

    P.S. I also agree with Suzanne that it’s just “life for you, but for the rest of it’s pretty amazing.”

    Reply
    1. greenglobaltrek

      Ahhh yes.. unfortunately no camera policy is one of those rules that is strictly enforced in an Onsen, so I could not post any nude pictures this time. Oh well, there’s always a next time 🙂

      Actually, it is pretty amazing for us too! As I wrote to Suzanne’s comment, this lifestyle was once but a dream…

      Peta

      Reply
  16. Johnny-O

    What a great way to celebrate a city’s amenities and a New Year! Peta, you look soooo relaxed on that bridge after the Onsen (doorknob and all). And Ben, that steaming of the glasses — a stroke of genius! Thanks for sharing such a lovely experience, and for showing what a class act Japanese culture can be. Happy returns to Hoi An.

    Reply
    1. greenglobaltrek

      Thank you Johnny. Actually I had been sick in the U.S. and was just started to feel better in Japan, but the Onsen seemed to be the turning point to returning to good health. Must have been all those minerals in the water! Glad you enjoyed our Onsen experience.

      Both very happy to be back in sunny Hoi An where winter means high sixties at the lowest!!

      Peta

      Reply
  17. Ann Coleman

    I’m sort of sorry to see you time in Japan draw to a close, as I have family from there and would like to visit it some day. But I have to say that I really enjoyed your descriptions of your time at the spa (which is why I’ve never done that, I’d be so embarrassed, and that’s just from visiting one in the US!) But I also look forward to your posts from Viet Nam. Thanks for keeping us posted about your travels, Peta! I so look forward to reading your updates!

    Reply
    1. Peta Kaplan Pollack

      Ann that is such lovely and heartwarming feedback. I do hope you get to visit Japan some day.I was actually surprised at how much I enjoyed our time there as I have never really had a burning desire to go to Japan, other than for the food. And there is just so much more….

      I was so keen to get into that hot mineral water, that any feelings of self consciousness were for me pushed aside. Even though I knew that as the “odd man out” I would certainly stand out and be noticeable. Was definitely worth it. So glad you enjoyed reading about it.

      Peta

      Reply
  18. Donna Connolly

    Hi, Ben and Peta – Thank you for taking us with you on this adventure. Your words brilliantly helped me to see, touch, hear, smell and taste right along with you. I especially liked the hot spring bath . I completely agree — there is nothing better than a hot steamy soak on a grey, chilly winter’s day.

    Reply
    1. Greenglobaltrek

      Thanks Donna, pleased to know you enjoyed this post. The Onsen was one more experience with hot springs for us. We have been to outdoor ones in Thailand, Ecuador and the U.S. Other indoor experiences have been the hammam in Morocco and Turkey, but thats less a soak and more of a pouring and scrubbing type of deal.

      Peta

      Reply
  19. J.D. Riso

    This post made me nostalgic for Budapest and the thermal spa culture. During my 4 years there, I went often. It’s so simply therapeutic. The etiquette is, as you experienced, something you learn from observation. Your experience looks absolutely sublime. The gardens, the food. I can almost smell that greenery. Thank you.

    Reply
    1. Greenglobaltrek

      Ah yes, we have also enjoyed the hammam (public baths) in both Morocco and Turkey. Those were definitely more of a scrub and pout than a soak but great experiences as well.

      Thanks for reading us and leaving your feedback J.D.

      Peta

      Reply
    1. Greenglobaltrek

      Haha “poor Ben”… No worries, he is quite the sturdy soul! It IS interesting how different bodies can be from country to country. When I was at a (Korean) public bath in Los Angeles, there is of course a tremendous variety of sizes and shapes amongst Western women. Whereas in Japan, and Viet Nam almost everyone is on the slim side and here in Viet Nam body structure is often on the petite side of the equation.

      Peta

      Reply
  21. Liesbet

    What a special and fascinating start of 2020, Peta and Ben. And, may it be less tumultuous than 2019! I guess the Onsen wouldn’t be for me (or Mark) due to the tattoo prohibition. Plus, I’m shy when it comes to being naked, especially in other cultures. I liked the fact that the rules were in English and snickered reading Ben’s “ostrich approach”. Haha! I will keep that idea of taking the glasses off in mind, though, as it could come in handy for me one day as well.

    Reply
    1. Greenglobaltrek

      Thanks Liesbet… we were pretty pleased with our start to 2020. Yes, hoping for a calmer year where changing country if need be, is not due to external crisis factors such as the ISIS attack in Sri Lanka.

      The only way to get around the tattoo rule is by going to a high end ryokan with a private soaking area. Not exactly budget friendly! Those rules, if you read then, are quite funny. And then there are the more subtle rules as well, not listed. There were no other foreigners while we were there but having the rules in English as well as Japanese covers the few that do show up.

      The “ostrich approach” with glasses is useful in many scenarios!

      Peta

      Reply
  22. Lexklein

    All of these last days in Kyoto are right up my alley! I’m with you on the hot water – love it! – and I might even be able to get over my squeamishness at being (pale white) naked in front of fit and firm locals! Everything about Japan appeals to me, and I can’t wait to go someday although I’m getting a backlog of Asian destinations now with our recent cancelation. 🙁

    Our daughter also has trouble with doorknobs and locking mechanisms, so she could totally relate to your near lock-in in the sauna! She once got stuck in a basement restroom in Athens and only after she’d been gone for ages did any of us go and investigate. Poor thing; I think she was about 14 at the time and traumatized for a long time (maybe even still!).

    I also love your predilection for changing plans as you see something interesting along the way;I love to operate that way when I’m traveling.

    Reply
    1. greenglobaltrek

      Lexie, it’s interesting that I never really had Japan as one of my top destinations it was more that we often spoke of going there together because of Ben having lived there, and it being a part of his history and of course also the advantage of his speaking the language. And boy I was surprised at how much loved it! You are going to need a longer trip to Asia, or maybe TWO 🙂

      That does sound traumatic for a kid, especially being in a foreign country. It happens to me quite often that I can’t figure out mechanisms of doors and particularly of showers. Usually I can stay calm and work out the locks, but being in the heat of the sauna I knew I would not last long! I was imagining them finding me in a heap on the floor!

      Best way to travel. One has to be able to give up attachments to prior plans though. Not always easy when one is determined to see a particular place.

      Peta

      Reply
  24. Laurel

    Just fantastic. What a glorious way to welcome the New Year! I love how you both immerse yourself in the culture and setting—wherever you are—and find a way to experience everything that intrigues you. And then you share it with us! (Lucky us!!)

    We both thoroughly enjoy hot springs and would love those Japanese baths. So fun that you shared your innermost thoughts…thanks for being so candid. I recall feeling awkward in the baths in Budapest because I wasn’t sure of the protocol. Although I’ve always liked best soaking in hot springs au natural, I wasn’t sure if sans bathing suit was appropriate in that situation until a very stern Hungarian woman yelled at me, “No bikini!!” I stripped down and enjoyed a glorious soak. 🙂

    Reply
  25. Peta Kaplan Pollack

    Laurel, aside from it being winter in Japan and the fact that I had enough of the cold weather, I could happily have spent longer there.

    That’s a funny story about the baths in Budapest. My favorite kind of hot springs are actually those that are outdoors and immersed in nature. We have found quite a few of those along our travels (Ecuador, Thailand, Bali). What made this one particularly welcome, was the cold weather component. Being used to tropical weather, it feels as though our bodies are just not equipped to cope with real cold anymore.

    Thanks for reading us and leaving your feedback.

    Peta

    Reply
  26. Dave Ply

    It sure seems like you’ve made the best of your Japan visit. I’m not sure it would be possible to do better, short of having your own personal guide.

    And for what it’s worth, I enjoy a hot soak too…

    Reply
    1. greenglobaltrek

      Oh yes, that we did! By only having the two stops of Nara and Kyoto, it allowed us the time to explore without stress. I felt as though I did have my own personal guide haha 🙂

      Dave, I honestly have not met anyone other than Ben, who does NOT like soaking in hot water…!

      Peta

      Reply
  27. Caroline Helbig

    Further to my comments on your previous post, this just makes me want to go to Japan even more. I’m so glad I don’t have a tattoo as going to an onsen is high on my list.Your his/her narrative of your onsen experience is delightful and informative, and I had a good giggle (thanks Ben; you are a good sport!).

    Until your posts, I had not considered visiting Japan in winter, but the lack of crowds and soaking in an onsen in chilly weather hold a lot of appeal.
    All the best for your return to Viet Nam

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Yes, Ben is definitely “a good sport”.. no doubt about that! Having had previous experience with going to the Onsen with his business peers, the Onsen was not exactly high on his list of must dos. However, it was definitely high on mine and therefore he braved it again decades later…. 🙂

      Definitely less crowds in winter, but of course one misses the spring blossoms and or the fall colors. But for us “counter programming” by going off season, is definitely a travel strategy that works well for less crowds. That said, some of the more popular places like the 1,000 gates and the Golden Temple, were still pretty crowded. I cannot begin to imagine how awful the crowds would be IN season.

      Nice to read you Caroline, hope you guys are doing well. Seems like such a long time since you visited us in Sri Lanka!

      Peta

      Reply
  28. Jeff Bell

    Soaking in the onsens were a highlight of my time in Japan. They are so peaceful and usually in beautiful settings. I hear you on the rates at the Ryokan. We splurged a couple of times, but dang it is expensive. If I lived there, I’d need to make about $200,000 a year to have the same lifestyle I have in SE Asia.

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Jeff, before we ever go back to Japan, I want to have saved up enough for a beautiful Ryokan. Although honestly, both of our experiences in the budget Ryokan and the public onsen were memorable indeed. I can certainly see where the onsens are a highlight of Japan for many people.

      I think the comments about the amount you would need to earn in Japan for an equivalent lifesytle to what you have in SE Asia, is a really important reminder. By choosing to live in S or SE Asia, we really have a high standard of living at a fraction of the cost. That said, when Ben lived in Japan decades ago, the rent was off the charts crazy but so was his salary. So at the end of the day, it was all a wash if you earn money at the local rate. But travelling to Japan on a non Japanese salary can be prohibitive.

      Peta

      Reply
  29. Erica/Erika

    Hi Peta and Ben, I love hot springs and geothermal pools. I suspect the onsens is the Japanese name for hot springs although prices are prohibitive. I am glad you found a more reasonable option than the Ryokan. Yes, nothing better than a steamy soak on a grey, chilly day! Fascinating on the tattoos. I would be okay to enter. No tattoos for me. Interesting on the kimono rentals.

    I really enjoyed reading Ben’s candid version of his experience in the onsens. And, Peta, I would also feel panic trapped in a sauna. We found Iceland very strict on cleanliness before entering the geothermal pools and all of the pools. They strongly encouraged all showers beforehand without clothes on.

    I love everything about this post. All of the photos are amazing! I have learned more about Japan from your posts than I have know all of my 60 plus years on this planet. Thank you!

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Erica/Erika thank you for such a thorough response to this blog post and to our series of post on Japan. It is interesting how one country can resonate with some blog readers and others much less do.

      We have not been to Iceland yet, other than stopover for an hour at the airport, but hopefully one day. We have found ourselves hot springs in Ecuador, Thailand and Bali. I particularly enjoy ones that are outdoors.

      Thanks for the lovely compliments on the photos and the socio cultural aspect with regards to our blog posts on Japan.

      Peta (& Ben)

      Reply
  30. Dr Sock

    So interesting reading about your experience with the onsen. Having spent most of my life on Canada’s west coast, I’ve had the good fortune to visit many hot springs (because we’re on the Cascadia subduction zone north of the San Andreas fault). Like you, Peta, I like the outdoor hot springs best, and especially ones in remote locate locations where there are no other people or only very few. I always find it interesting that many other countries are not as modest about nudity as we are here in Canada.

    Jude

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      So interesting Jude. I think that the modestly about nudity in Canada and the U.S. is more of an Anglo Saxon sense of morality perhaps. However, when we went to public hot springs outdoors in Ecuador and Thailand and Bali.. all of those countries one is required to wear swimsuits at the hot springs, and then again, we went to one in Santa Cruz that was fully nude and not much modesty or self consciousness there. Interesting huh?

      Peta

      Reply
  31. Joanne Sisco

    I enjoyed taking this journey with you – especially the Onsen, since there is no way in hell my body image could handle the possibility of getting naked with a bunch of tiny Japanese women. I would feel like a behemoth. Getting a peek through your eyes works well for me on this one!

    I loved the line “If I don’t see anyone, no one will see me”. Yeah, I wish it was that simple!! 🤣

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      Joanne you had us both chuckling over your response… I have to say that I did feel a tad self conscious with regards to the difference in our physique, however, once I sunk into that hot water, I could have cared less. Also, Japanese as a culture, are pretty good about not staring and have been “trained” to be very polite.

      SShhhh don’t tell Ben that his concept might not be a valid one haha.

      Peta

      Reply
  32. Sharon Bonin-Pratt (Shari)

    The murals in the temple are so beautiful, with a contemporary feel even though centuries old. I’d love to be inside that inky forest. As for the real trees – are they intentionally bound some way to make them curve so dramatically? It seems incongruous that Japanese aesthetic embraces simplicity, serenity, and unity, yet the cafe is plastered haphazardly with posters, creating a chaotic scene. The instructions for the baths are pretty funny. And that’s all I’m gonna say about that!

    Reply
    1. GreenGlobalTrek Post author

      So glad that someone really appreciates those murals. In fact they are technically painted screens, which are moveable. If you think about ikebana, then yes, for sure the trees are bound in a way that is seen as aesthetically pleasing, but as well, they are often bound for support and protection as they age. Given the utmost respect to not losing a branch or letting it fall over and break. So the supports are just that ~ support systems and not about shaping.

      The place with posters slapped on haphazardly is not a cafe, but a bar and a specific kind of bar YAKITORI, which is more popular, rowdy and cheaper than a refined restaurant with emphasis on aesthetics. It has a distinct atmosphere which is way more casual and locals are pretty rowdy… well, for Japanese that is.

      Peta

      Reply

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