Colombia is interesting geographically in that it has borders with Venezuela, Brazil, Bolivia, Peru and Panama. We started in the middle of the country (Medellin), flew up North to the Caribbean Coast (Cartagena) and then had to make one of those traveller’s decisions…
Do we stay in the region of the Caribbean and head up North to Parque Tayrona (which is a large protected natural reserve area with reputedly beautiful virgin beaches), or do we head to the South of the country for the music festival? We decide that music it is, as we have gorgeous beaches in Nicaragua, but not much in the way of music festivals that showcase original regional music.
The Festival de Musica del Pacifico is a 16 year old annual musical event that allows Colombia’s black “Pacific” community to be recognized for its cultural contribution to Colombia. We brave the crowds and the lines, to find ourselves a spot in the bullfighting arena which is this year’s venue for the growing event. Going to a concert here is no small affair, given the improving but continuing challenging security environment. For instance, we pass 3 separate rings of police checks, complete with body frisk by officers and bag checks. This security detail makes any US airport control point a joke. The interesting twist on things is that the police has organized two lines, one for men, one for women (the logic is that this allows for faster throughput of women officers checking women attending the concert, male police officers checking men…). That doesn’t sound like a good idea to us, so we wind up pleading for the police to let us go through as a couple, given the high likelihood of a frustrating time trying to find each other.
Once in the arena, we are surrounded by a black culture that clearly lives and loves its music! The concert starts with the Cali Philharmonic Orchestra, which we determine has two impacts –