Hoi An, Viet Nam ~ ceramics, temples and seafood

Though a small town, Hoi An is a treasure trove of surprises at so many levels.  Here is a smattering of Hoi An moments… and an inevitable set of culinary vignettes  of Vietnamese street food culture.
For us, Hoi An has an association with Nu’oc Mia – Sugar cane juice.  The vendors are everywhere, it’s delicious, cheap, satisfying on a hot day… and one of our favorite spots overlooks the rice paddy.
A few plastic chairs and tables alongside the street. You can see the pile of sugar cane stalks that have already been through the press, behind Ben.
This barber not only offers shaves, but as well, deep ear cleaning, which is a most unusual experience. However, not only does it feel great afterwards, once you get used to it, relax, it is quite an enjoyable experience.
Hoi An is a mecca for tailor shops. There are streets and streets and streets of shop after tailor shop which offer “made to order” fashion.
Selecting fabric for a linen shirt and pants at one of the infamous tailor shops – although in this case, a woman we have used before, who doesn’t have a shop but rather a “booth” amidst the fabric market. She does a great job at great prices.
Chinese Temple, one of many due to the historical presence of Chinese traders living in Hoi An  for  several centuries.
Hoi An beach is always good for some yoga.
 If we thought we were food focused before Adam met up with us, we are of course even more food centric than before.
The trick in Hoi An, is one of timing. Waves of street food vendors set up at specific times and quickly sell out of their  specialties. The one dish “kitchen” is at its best here!
Banh Mi is especially good in Hoi An, with this woman being the queen of Banh Mi. Crusty baguette (the bakery is next door),  a heap of various pork cuts, sauces, homemade aioli, pickled veggies and fresh herbs. A favorite of Adam and Bens!
Huge sea snails, crispy rice paper and homemade chili sauce make for a great pre dinner snack in Hoi An.
BBQ “sticks” on the side of the street, while perched on tiny plastic “kindergarten’ stools. One of the best evening vendors. Set up starts at 4.30 for dinner and is often sold out before 6pm!
Always a favorite for Peta – organic fresh salad greens and herbs right out of the Tra Que herb gardens, (where we lived last year ), and onto the plate.
There are many different formats to eat authentic delicious food in Viet Nam. Small cafes and seafood are offered up on the side of the river in the fishing village of Thanh Ha.
Its midday, but the local fishermen are on break and enjoying Vietnamese beer with their seafood, as are we!
We ride our motorbikes through the village, enjoying the small houses, colors and people.
The ceramics village is nearby the fisherman village. A group of freshly made clay pots are turned upside down in front of a house, to dry in the sun before being put in the kiln.
The wheel turns by push of the foot. This potter is trimming lids at the leather stage, and adding handles from the green bin on the left.
Back to get some more fresh mackerel. Now we are “regulars”, even though this is not a place where they usually sell mackerel – this is the fishing and cooking spot before the fish gets taken to market in bulk, for sale.
Anchovies? being cleaned before steaming in bamboo baskets over the woodfire.
Our host … A friendly fisherwoman invites to share her space and her delicious fresh fish!
We are sitting on a bamboo structure above the Thu Bon River eating fresh mackerel. Doesn’t get much better than this from a gastronomic point of view.
Meeting up with our friend Savi ~ hails from Sweden, lives in Hoi An. He was traveling, stopped in Hoi An and been there for about a year now.

Cua Dai beach in the early evening transforms into a massive open air seafood venue. Little plastic tables and chairs with lights are set up in front of a long row of makeshift beach kitchens. Quite a sight.

Here you can see the row of mobile kitchens being set up for the evening seafood on the beach.
 It is easy to spend a lot of time in Hoi An and lose track of time, of days… It really does feel like a home base for us, but we are ready to take our first big motorbike adventure going North.

5 thoughts on “Hoi An, Viet Nam ~ ceramics, temples and seafood

  1. Sharon Rosenzweig

    My favorite is the fisherwoman in the flowered outfit and hat. She seems so friendly and relaxed. Hoi An does seem perfect, if it’s not too hot, but I’m glad to get to read about your further explorings.

  2. Anonymous

    Hola, hola, doña Peta!
    God, I wish my pottery skills were so good, and I had all the comforts of an electric wheel.
    Love the pic of yoga you on the beach. It looks like a very neat place to be.
    Best wishes on your continuing journey,
    Charles

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